That is only with crappy mainstream woofers that use the same 12" motor for their 15s and 18s. With the better woofers, they change the motor design to have enough motor force to compensate for the extra MMS from the bigger cone. Creating a relatively balanced woofer for each size.
I don't plan on being the loudest person there or anywhere close to it. I just want to be able to take my car to a car audio show and be proud of the set up for my daily that I have in my trunk. I plan to wall off a Suburban in my future for BIG numbers, power, and day long demo sessions, but I don't have the funds to make a vehicle dedicated for car audio. I don't have the funds for a race car either, which is why this car will step as much as it can into both categories, while maintaining useability, driveability, and functionality.
Sure. In fact 18's are so "slow" that if you send them a 40hz sine wave they'll only play 38hz. For Christ's sake, this **** was acceptable 15-20 years ago before EVERYONE had access to the internet, but it is inexcusable today.
That was precisely my thought.
I never said that this was a race or strip only car, nor did I ever say that this is an audio only car. I DID state that this is going to be and is my daily driver. I DID say that I want this car to do well in a straight line and play music loud with heavy bass while looking mostly stock at a glance. I DID state that I don't have the money to go out and buy/insure three/two other vehicles respectively with ONE purpose in their lives. I DON'T have the funds to build a full size SUV to the hilt for car audio. I DON'T have the funds to go out and buy a truck with car trailer and build a drag race only car to go on it that will run 6 second 1/4 mile passes every weekend, multiple times per night, and upkeep that car. I HAVE most of the knowledge needed to make my car run well. I KNOW HOW TO ASK QUESTIONS for something I DON'T know. I DON'T know enough about car audio, hence why I am on here. I PLAN on lightening nearly every component of the car to help OFFSET the weight of the audio equipment. Audio equipment that can be easily and fairly quickly REMOVED if I want to become SERIOUS about racing with this car; hence the trunk setup, not a wall. MOST of the weight from audio equipment would be over the rear axle, which WILL help traction drastically, and IMPROVE front/rear weight bias greatly. Just because it is not the norm, or completely absurd doesn't make it any less of a goal to achieve. Think Nikola Tesla, his ideas were stranger than fiction and many people thought he was crazy... yet was years ahead of his time, and we can thank him for many of our technologies today(arguably this computer I'm typing from and the internet). I am not saying, nor even hoping, that I will be thought of in the same light as him; just using Mr. Tesla as the first example that came to mind. I will be happy to post many pictures and videos proudly displaying my vehicle with audio equipment installed, running low 10's to high 9's in the 1/4 mile. You may say what you like, 'tis a free country... but to the 'haters' I happily say f*** off
. The subs in question... the Sundown ZV4 10 and 18... look at them. Put them both at rated power(1750 rms) and tell me that there will be absolutely ZERO difference in how they perform. Unless I have missed or overlooked something(which is very possible), I would say that the 10's will be 'quicker' as I stated originally.
Yes you are missing something, more motor force = more controlled excursion, the magnet on the 18 is beefier even though it doesnt look like it. 18s will be louder throughout the whole frequency range which gives the illusion of 18s getting lower then a 10 but in fact those notes just louder due to cone area. Both in ideal enclosures will hit just as fast as the other.
Yeah the 18s will be louder. That's pretty much it. The 18s will hit all the notes just as fast as the 10s, as long as they are in a proper box built for them.
