12", 1.5cu ft SEALED, strictly SQ: Dayton HF, IDQv2, or ???

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

I'm a fan of the Dayton subs, but frankly there are a ton of choices out there. The Peerless XXLS is a very good sub too. Depending on budget, a lot of options open up though, so choices stop becoming so cut and dry.
The talk about x-over points is funny. Frankly, the x-over choice depends on what the system can do. Paired to a small full range setup or one geared for higher frequencies (rolls off above 100Hz), you really do NEED to cross higher. I've run hardware, even 6.5" drivers that really did need to be crossed up above 100Hz. It all depends on capability. If you've got a 5.25" with 3mm x-max, there's no way in hell you're going to cross the sub at 60Hz or 80Hz. The better x-over point will be more towards 125Hz-150Hz in order to not force the mid woofer to try and play so low to which it will spectacularly fail. For OP, he's running a 4" driver. The MAXIMUM capability for that size of driver is pretty much 200Hz while still getting any reasonable amount of output cleanly.

I disagree with the localization comments. This is solely a transparency issue of the driver. You either recognize the source point or you don't. This can be the driver's fault (distortion, noise) or the environment's fault (resonating panels). Most folks just happen to run drivers that are not transparent and operate them in environments that are easily excitable. As well, most folks don't take advantage of time alignment to sync hardware together and typically don't set gains/levels right for the sub. Most folks listen to their sub way too loud, and it simply overshadows higher frequencies. There are a lot of things done wrong that cause the issue. However, x-over alone is not the issue.

I'll second that. If everything is in proper phase and level matched correctly and your sub can play high without excessive distortion and you don't have panel resonance alot of cars can go above 80hz for their sub and not localize. This takes alot of mechanical stress your mids and cleans up the midrange in alot of cases.

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

I'm a fan of the Dayton subs, but frankly there are a ton of choices out there. The Peerless XXLS is a very good sub too. Depending on budget, a lot of options open up though, so choices stop becoming so cut and dry.
The talk about x-over points is funny. Frankly, the x-over choice depends on what the system can do. Paired to a small full range setup or one geared for higher frequencies (rolls off above 100Hz), you really do NEED to cross higher. I've run hardware, even 6.5" drivers that really did need to be crossed up above 100Hz. It all depends on capability. If you've got a 5.25" with 3mm x-max, there's no way in hell you're going to cross the sub at 60Hz or 80Hz. The better x-over point will be more towards 125Hz-150Hz in order to not force the mid woofer to try and play so low to which it will spectacularly fail. For OP, he's running a 4" driver. The MAXIMUM capability for that size of driver is pretty much 200Hz while still getting any reasonable amount of output cleanly.

I disagree with the localization comments. This is solely a transparency issue of the driver. You either recognize the source point or you don't. This can be the driver's fault (distortion, noise) or the environment's fault (resonating panels). Most folks just happen to run drivers that are not transparent and operate them in environments that are easily excitable. As well, most folks don't take advantage of time alignment to sync hardware together and typically don't set gains/levels right for the sub. Most folks listen to their sub way too loud, and it simply overshadows higher frequencies. There are a lot of things done wrong that cause the issue. However, x-over alone is not the issue.

Thank you, worded much better than I could have done, but basically my thoughts as well.

For shits and giggles, on occasion I run my DIYMA up to 200hz @ 12db and it still sounds like it's playing in the center of my dash.