12", 1.5cu ft SEALED, strictly SQ: Dayton HF, IDQv2, or ???

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

Playing a sub that high is retarded.

And your reasoning is?

 

[ealvar 10+ year member]

And your reasoning is?

I can think of a few simple reasons. First, 125Hz can be localized by the human ear. Second, the fundamental frequency of the human voice is 85Hz-155Hz for an adult human male and 165Hz-255Hz for an adult human female.

I spose if you want to hear partial male vocals coming from behind you then crossing over your sub that high is fine.

I've always heard that the Neil Diamond, Barbra Streisand duet 'You Don't Bring Me Flowers' sounds better when lower frequencies of Neil's voice comes from behind you.

In other words, it sounds like shit.

 

[sportyaccordy 10+ year member]

I can think of a few simple reasons. First, 125Hz can be localized by the human ear. Second, the fundamental frequency of the human voice is 85Hz-155Hz for an adult human male and 165Hz-255Hz for an adult human female.
I spose if you want to hear partial male vocals coming from behind you then crossing over your sub that high is fine.

I've always heard that the Neil Diamond, Barbra Streisand duet 'You Don't Bring Me Flowers' sounds better when lower frequencies of Neil's voice comes from behind you.

In other words, it sounds like shit.

No need to be so abrasive dude. I just set it that high cause I have crappy 4" coaxials that came with the car in my front stage now. It's nowhere near a competition setup. I didn't really notice a difference.

With my Dayton 6.5" comps I will def. set the low pass on the sub lower.

 

[Johnny Drama 5,000+ posts]

And your reasoning is?

Because that isn't SUB bass you fucking idiot.

 

[Johnny Drama 5,000+ posts]

No need to be so abrasive dude. I just set it that high cause I have crappy 4" coaxials that came with the car in my front stage now. It's nowhere near a competition setup. I didn't really notice a difference.
With my Dayton 6.5" comps I will def. set the low pass on the sub lower.

If you are concerned with SQ then stop worrying about your sub and get a nice set of comps in, ***.

He also wasn't being abrasive (I am), he was merely explaining.

 

[ealvar 10+ year member]

No need to be so abrasive dude. I just set it that high cause I have crappy 4" coaxials that came with the car in my front stage now. It's nowhere near a competition setup. I didn't really notice a difference.
With my Dayton 6.5" comps I will def. set the low pass on the sub lower.

Sorry if I came across as abrasive, it certainly wasn't my intention. I was actually trying to be a bit humorous with the Neil Diamond/Barbra Streisand bit.

Anyhow, there's a good crossover test for any sub; tune in an AM talk radio station and turn it up. You shouldn't hear vocals from your sub. If you do then you'll want to turn down the crossover a bit until you no longer hear vocals.

Good luck with the new gear.

Regards,

E

 

[JayRich 10+ year member]

The DIYMA r12 and V4 Mag come to mind. Both excellent SQ woofers that work well in small sealed enclosures and are very efficient and should sounds great off of 300 watts

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

Because that isn't SUB bass you fucking idiot.

63hz isn't midbass you fucking idiot, and thats an accepted frequency to cross "midbass" drivers at.

 

[sportyaccordy 10+ year member]

63hz isn't midbass you fucking idiot, and thats an accepted frequency to cross "midbass" drivers at.

Hey guys... chill out. It's not that serious. My penis is bigger than both of yours combined.

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

Hey guys... chill out. It's not that serious. My penis is bigger than both of yours combined.

I'm chill until I get called a ****ing idiot. Though, he doesn't call him self "drama queen" for nothing, his panties must be pretty far up his vag today.

 

[sportyaccordy 10+ year member]

I'm chill until I get called a ****ing idiot. Though, he doesn't call him self "drama queen" for nothing, his panties must be pretty far up his vag today.

I don't really care if he hurt your feelings. Send him a PM.

 

[SSS 18734 5,000+ posts]

This thread sucks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

And yes, a Gti MKii will do just fine off 300 watts. OP, you never really stated a budget.

 

[ealvar 10+ year member]

63hz isn't midbass you fucking idiot, and thats an accepted frequency to cross "midbass" drivers at.

Confused... where did anyone say anything about midbass or 63Hz? The question was subs playing up to 125Hz which probably isn't going to yield fantastic results.

As far as midbass goes I agree with you. Most folks set HP crossovers at 63-80Hz. I prefer 80Hz in my current car which is tiny (Scion xA) as it sounds better.

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

#2 Eric Stevens
Insert superlatives here

'>

Group: iD Top Dogs

Posts: 2,261

Joined: 22-October 04

Posted 25 February 2009 - 12:18 AM

The ID will be very close to the IDQ.

Difference in sound and performance will be smaller than the difference in price.

Eric Stevens

Image Dynamics USA

866-933-1414 ext 201

Right from the horse's mouth so to speak....................

let's not forget the other things Eric said "IDQ will give a drier more detailed SQ type sound, where the ID with excellent SQ will have a heavier and deeper tone to it."

and lets not forget that was for your box type that you mentioned.

now with that said if your going for more SQ i'd recommend the IDQ12v3 but you may have to take up some box space with some 2x4 so that it's at one cubic foot instead of 1.5. If you'd prefer not to you could use the IDMax in a sealed 1.5 box and that would fit the air space and power nicely. BUT some think the ID max doesn't shine w/o 1000 watts going to it. but i strongly recommend the IDQ12V3.

Now the only reason y i don't recommend the IDQv2 is that it is discontinued and if anything ever happens you may not be able to get it repaired.

 

[mvw2 10+ year member]

I'm a fan of the Dayton subs, but frankly there are a ton of choices out there. The Peerless XXLS is a very good sub too. Depending on budget, a lot of options open up though, so choices stop becoming so cut and dry.

The talk about x-over points is funny. Frankly, the x-over choice depends on what the system can do. Paired to a small full range setup or one geared for higher frequencies (rolls off above 100Hz), you really do NEED to cross higher. I've run hardware, even 6.5" drivers that really did need to be crossed up above 100Hz. It all depends on capability. If you've got a 5.25" with 3mm x-max, there's no way in hell you're going to cross the sub at 60Hz or 80Hz. The better x-over point will be more towards 125Hz-150Hz in order to not force the mid woofer to try and play so low to which it will spectacularly fail. For OP, he's running a 4" driver. The MAXIMUM capability for that size of driver is pretty much 200Hz while still getting any reasonable amount of output cleanly.

I disagree with the localization comments. This is solely a transparency issue of the driver. You either recognize the source point or you don't. This can be the driver's fault (distortion, noise) or the environment's fault (resonating panels). Most folks just happen to run drivers that are not transparent and operate them in environments that are easily excitable. As well, most folks don't take advantage of time alignment to sync hardware together and typically don't set gains/levels right for the sub. Most folks listen to their sub way too loud, and it simply overshadows higher frequencies. There are a lot of things done wrong that cause the issue. However, x-over alone is not the issue.