1000w RMS = ¿? Awg

^^^ yap but hteres a diff between a distorted and non distorted watt.
hmm you know hwat ill reccomend //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

check out the USAmps md1 722@2 and 1050@1

and the md2 is rated at 1521@1 and benched at 1900, was bought by someone for 475 (the md2)

http://www.usamps.com
x2.. that MD1 and the MD2 will tear ur windows!!!

 
no there's not.
so wats the diff between a class a/b and class d? class d is more efficient than an a/b or a or t or watever, but it has more distortion rite?

and correct me if im wrong, dont some amps put out a cleaner signal than other amps?

 
so wats the diff between a class a/b and class d? class d is more efficient than an a/b or a or t or watever, but it has more distortion rite?
and correct me if im wrong, dont some amps put out a cleaner signal than other amps?
When either is used to power a subwoofer and are driven within their limits, there is no audible difference in distortion.

In comparison a class D usually has .1%THD at rated power while class A/B has .05% at rated power, the human ear will start to detect distortion at around 10% THD(higher with subwoofers), so .5%thd and .1%thd is not noticable.

The biggest difference between class D and class A/B is that the class A/B has a larger frequency response of 10 to 20K hz while the class d's usually have a frequency responce of 10 to 500hz.

The frequency response of a class D is limited because the internal switching noise can cause unwanted interference within audible range, there is a few full range class D's on the market today but they are very expensive due to the technlology needed to give them a noise free frequency response of 10 to 20k hz.

All amplifiers are capable of putting out clean undistorted power the key factor is how much power can they deliver before audible clipping sets in. The term "dirty power" comes from people using cheap amps that have claims like 1000 watts max when it only puts out 200 watts rms before clipping, they overdrive the cheap amp and complain thats its putting out "dirty power" when in reality they are using an amp that is simply too small for their purposes. when they upgrade to a name brand that claims 500 watts RMS , they compare the old amps 1000 watt peak rating to the new amps RMS rating a say the new amp has cleaner power when really this is not true. The new amp sounds better simply because it has more RMS power.

 
Will any of these amps perform well on a STOCK altenator?
you will be ok altenator wise if you are staying at least half the battery c.c.amps //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif ...just make shure you have a good battery at least 650 cca or more p.s i'm runing 210 amps and 8 and 4 gauge wires to my battery and it fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
 
you will be ok altenator wise if you are staying at least half the battery c.c.amps //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif ...just make shure you have a good battery at least 650 cca or more p.s i'm runing 210 amps and 8 and 4 gauge wires to my battery and it fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

What would you reccomend as a good battery? Would a Yellow Top do the trick?

 
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