1 Sub or 2?

linksys

Junior Member
I have a 1,000 Watt [peak] 2 channel (I think stereo, not dual mono) 4 ohm [insert forgotten brand name here] amp.

A 1,000 Watt 4 ohm Menace 12" sub-woofer [model MA-L1204]

in an open style box.... (I had an example but can't post the pic...)

Oh and its in the trunk of an '05 Carrolla ...

But I want to know would it be a good Idea to swap that speaker and box for 2 500 Watt peak 4 ohm 12" woofers???

 
I would upgrade everything to better quality..........
but doubling cone area is 3db louder


Thank you! 3db is... "Meh" so I think I'll save some money, get a deep-cycle battery (or 2) and go for 2,000 Watts and 2 of the same speaker (the one I got now)

I do disagree about the quality menace audio seem like they know their stuff.

Maybe you can show proof of your side of the argument?

EDIT: The RMS is roughly 300 Watts and the amp is made by Lanzar Vector... I never heard of them it might be crap....

 
Thank you! 3db is... "Meh" so I think I'll save some money, get a deep-cycle battery (or 2) and go for 2,000 Watts and 2 of the same speaker (the one I got now)
I do disagree about the quality menace audio seem like they know their stuff.

Maybe you can show proof of your side of the argument?

EDIT: The RMS is roughly 300 Watts and the amp is made by Lanzar Vector... I never heard of them it might be crap....
Never heard of Menace, so no comment, but Lanzar is kinda crappy besides the Opti-Series in my opinion, don't take my opinion as law, I could be wrong for sure.

 
your doing everything wrong if your looking at peak ratings AKA the number the amp sees before it blows up in a fiery tornado in your car. RMS = continuous power which is the actual watts your getting. Your sub is rated at 300 rms and your amp most likely is putting out 120-200 watts rms. 1200 watts for $56.99! - To good to be true? Cheap amp tested: SMD AD-1 Amplifier Dyno - YouTube here's a vid of an amp claiming 1200 watts but when tested, it does less than 150 real watts...

I'd suggest you do a little bit more on what to look for in car audio and what brands are good and does what they claim before making uninformed buying decisions.

 
Well do you really blame me for being fooled by advertising? So on a budget of about $1,000 USD what can I get thats closer to the actual 1,000 Watts RMS rather then the (basically pointless) Peak that is written in big letters on the box?

 
Well do you really blame me for being fooled by advertising? So on a budget of about $1,000 USD what can I get thats closer to the actual 1,000 Watts RMS rather then the (basically pointless) Peak that is written in big letters on the box?
Woah bro let me hook you up GOOD.

give me a couple minutes to come up with everything //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif:D:D

 
Well do you really blame me for being fooled by advertising? So on a budget of about $1,000 USD what can I get thats closer to the actual 1,000 Watts RMS rather then the (basically pointless) Peak that is written in big letters on the box?
With 1000, you can get monster subs and good amps amps that do a lot more than 1000 watts rms... SoundSolutionsAudio's Online car audio store! Best prices, products and customer service. Fast shipping to US, Canada and More!! is a good place to start to see what competition level subs and amps are. American Bass, soundqubed and Digital designs are also good brands if you want to get loud and sound good. Is that 1000$ for the subs and amps only or is it for your whole install which includes the box, amp kit and labor? Also do you have any electrical upgrades? Because running higher power, you need a stronger alternator, 0 gauge OFC "big 3" wire upgrades and extra AGM batteries in order to power your gear.

Whats your goal for your setup? loud? sound quality? both?

 
You're gonna get a DC 2k from Blockburner: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/583289-dc-audio-2-0k-lnib.html

$400

You're gonna buy a Tantric HD, I can't say the exact price, but it will be under 375 most likely.

SS Audio Solutions box for about $150, 2.5cf with 16” of port per cube, 20-24” long tuned around 33hz

With around $100 left buy your wiring and everything.

Keep the gains down until you can get a battery in the trunk.

 
i'm pretty sure you dont have the electricals to go hard with the bass this so this would be my recommendation for you.

get 2 of these

Amazon.com: SA-12 D4 - Sundown Audio 12" 600W Dual 4-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer: Car Electronics

one of this

Amazon.com: Hifonics BRX1600.1D Brutus Vehicle Mono Subwoofer Amplifier: Car Electronics

with the rest of the money for 2/0 gauge Oxygen Free Copper amp kit, an AGM battery under the hood, A custom Subwoofer box http://www.caraudio.com/forums/high-output-enclosures/535560-high-output-enclosures-picture-log-16.html#post8430002 Look at post #477 its a 4th order for the sundowns I listed, you can have him build the box for you and ship it to you or just buy the design from him and cut sheet and have your local shop build it. Trust me, you'll get crazy loud with this setup and it'll sound good doing it.

The total of all that should be under your budget

Important notes:

If you want more power than that, you'd have to buy a high output alternator which would run you an extra 350-500.

Dont skimp out on the box, the box is absolutely without a doubt worth it.

Dont ever get tricked into buying a capacitor. put that money for a high output alternator and then extra AGM batteries.

It takes power to make power, if you want those 2000 rms and higher systems, you have to upgrade your electricals or else stuff will blow.

Invest in a multimeter and learn how to set gains with a multi-meter so you dont blow your equipment.

 
Well to clear the air the $1,000 needs to include at least 1 if not 2 deep-cycle batteries (I'll leave the alt alone for now) the amp, speakers, box, wires and install.

I can probably deal with non-competition grade and use street-grade parts to shave a few bucks off the total price.

 
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