1 more noob needing help threads...

lvjeffro
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Hey all,name is jeff and I am 37 and live in Las Vegas, Nv...

Just getting into this car audio world and this is what I have purchased/in process of purchasing so far;I am going to install the HU, 6X9's and 6.5"'s,sound deaden the interior,change out the big 3 and install the 170amp alt all myself, and then have a professional installer wire up the sub box,charge up the cap,set up the amps and tune the system with my imprint setup...Should be a nice little system, nothing like alot of you guys have, but hey, its a start..

Alpine ida-x100 hu

Alpine kca-422i full speed ipod cable

Alpine kce-300BT bluetooth module

Alpine kca-sc100 sirius module

Alpine pxa-h100 imprint module

Alpine ktx-h100 imprint sound mngr kit

Alpine spr-69c type R 2-way 6X9's

Alpine spr-17s type R 6.5" separates

Alpine mrp-f550 4 ch 90X4@4ohms@.08%

Alpine mrp-m850 mono amp @ 800X1@2ohms

Alpine swr-1222d type R dual 2ohm sub

Alpine swr-1222d type R dual 2ohm sub

geek squad 6' gold plated USB cable

stinger rkx4 expert roadkill universal kit

stinger rkxlic expert roadkill licence plate kit

stinger rkcp12 expert roadkill floor pad

stinger rkxdk expert roadkill 2 door kit for inside door

stinger rkxdk expert roadkill 2 door kit for outer door

stinger rkxtk expert roadkill trunk kit

stinger spi-4320 pro 3 20' 4 channel RCA

stinger spi-2320 pro 3 20' 2 channel RCA

stinger shc5015 15 farad hybrid cap

stinger shd870 midi fused pwr/grnd D/B

stinger spv35 honda dry cell batt

stinger spt53302 batt term(1-1/0,1-4,2-8)

stinger spt53102 batt term(1-1/0,1-4,2-8)

stinger shw514bc 80' 14g twisted speaker wire

stinger shw44y 14g twisted wire Y bootys for speaker wire into amp

stinger shw18c 15' of 8g clear sub/box wire -

stinger shw18b 8' of 8g blue sub/box wire +

stinger shw14b 10' of 4g blue amp wire+ from dblock to amps

stinger shw14c 10' of 4g clear amp wire- from dblock to amps

stinger spt522 4g to 8g reducer for 4ch amp connection +

stinger spt522 4g to 8g reducer for 4ch amp connection -

wire for big 3

stinger shw14b 6' of 4g blue alternator power to batt wire

stinger shw14c 3' of 4awg clear batt to chassis and engine to chassis grounds

stinger sht24 4g ring terminal for alt post,

stinger sht24 4g ring terminal for chassis to batt ground,chassis side

stinger sht24 4g ring terminal for chassis to engine ground,engine side

stinger sht24 4g ring terminal for chassis to engine ground,chassis side

I still need;

a sub box(thinking subzone z series)

ground mounting post,

firewall grommet,

various connectors,

possible 1/0 to 4g reducers

???possible inline fuse holder for alt to batt run???

fuses,

remote wire,

power wire from batt to cap,

ground wire from ground post to dblock,

170amp Load Boss alternator...

And I am done, I think??? Have I missed anything??? Like I said new to car audio, done lots of research but not sure if I missed anything???

here is where I am stumped, I am not sure what size power wire from batt to cap??? I have seen the stinger 1/0 and 4g amp wiring kits and I am looking at these kits;

1/0 kits

shk201=$120.00

swkh0 = $99.00

4g kits

swkh4=$62.00

shk241=$58.00

but not sure which size and which one would be best for me as I already have most of what I need to install this beast... I think??? it seems that all I need to know now is;

what size power wire from batt to cap???

answer:

batt inline fuse size (18" from batt terminal)

answer:

what sized fuses for dblock right before amps

answer:

????????? fuse/fuse holder for alt. to batt wire ?????

I have heard

"use a fuse between this run" and I have heard "do not use a fuse for this run"...Well, whats the correct answer???...LOL...

answer:

information needed for answering above questions:

both amps total are 1160watts RMS and 135amps & total run of approx 12-14'

2X30 & 3X25 amp fuses...4 ch will be running in 4 ohm and mono will be running 2ohm load...thats right at the Max for watts and amps on 4g but this setup will not change,so would using 4g be safe or just buck up the extra $$$ and just go 1/0???

I also have an issue with what to do with the power wire from the alt to the batt for changing the big 3...My car is a 1999 honda civic ex that still has the stock wheels,springs and exhaust so no I am not fast and the furious...LOL...)

If anyone has changed out the alt power wire on a 1999 honda civic, please speak the hell up...Thank you in advance...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

thanks for any help and hope to become a contributing member of the forums...It'll be a while but it'll happen...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 
dont buy from cicuit city or best buy.

build your own box or get one built

and get a diff alt then that load boss one. prolly a pos.

caps are useless do the big 3

get the 0ga kit.

do 1run of 0ga with a inline fuse from the batt to a distro.

then put the distro as close as possible to the amps and just use 4ga to do from distro to amp.

use whatever leftover 0ga you have to ground the bigger amp and you could prolly get away with 4ga for the smaller amp.

 
dont 'change' out the big 3 wires, simply add runs or 0/1 to the existing wires. that way, if something comes loose or whatever you wont have a fire, also, fuse the alt to batt wire. some people do, some dont, but i would.

 
dont buy from cicuit city or best buy.

no, no buying from best buy or circuit city...bought alot of this on ebay,

deck from al-eds price matched abts price of 282.00 shipped

kce-300bt and the kca-422i from al-eds for 190.00 shipped

mrp-f550 from electric warehouse for 229.00 shipped

mrp-m850 and 2-swr-1222d's got on ebay at audio club for 500.00 shipped

spr-69c's from hookedontronics on amazon 87.00 shipped

spr-17s 6.5" from x-sounds off ebay for 130.00 shipped

pxa-h100 and the ktx-h100 from crutchfield for 180.00 shipped

and the rest was bought from hifisound connection,bag-boy and jmt products on ebay for roughly 1100.00

oh the geek squad gold plated USB cable was 30.00...LOL...

so about 2700.00 total...not bad huh...Got lots of great deals all over the place as you can see...LOL...

build your own box or get one built

can't work with wood anymore, cut off part of my thumb a couple years ago...Was looking at subzone Z series and also found a place that makes boxes specifically for alpine type R subs...Its a 4.0cft ported box tuned for 32hz...I will keep asking for suggestions...

and get a diff alt then that load boss one. prolly a pos.

I do not know, haven't ordered it yet, I will look around for a better one but from what I have read, it seems like a great alternator and it has a lifetime warranty!!!!!!!

get the 0ga kit.

do 1run of 0ga with a inline fuse from the batt to a distro.

then put the distro as close as possible to the amps and just use 4ga to do from distro to amp.

Yeah, I figured I would have to bite the bullet and get the 1/0 kit...

my power wire will go from;

batt to inline fuse: 1/0

inline fuse to cap: 1/0

cap to dblock: 1/0

dblock to amps 4g to mono amp +/-...4g to 8g reducer to 4ch amp +/-

ground:

from ground post to cap:1/0

from cap to dblock:1/0

dblock to amps: 4g to mono amp +/-...4g to 8g reducer to 4ch amp +/-

use whatever leftover 0ga you have to ground the bigger amp and you could prolly get away with 4ga for the smaller amp.

Well, I will use 1/0 until the Dblock then I will go to 4g and then use reducers to go to the 4ch amp...

Well thanks for all that, but you didn't answer the main question for me...LOL...What size fuses do I use...Since I will be changing out the big 3, bumping up the alt to 170 amps, using 1/0 wire when I have no idea what the amp threshold is on 1/0 wire at 12-14' and if I am using 1/0 and reduce it down to 4g, will that have an impact on fuse size due to the smaller end terminal???

Well, nice "talking with ya" and thanks for the help hopefully I can get this info so I can order the last of what I need and get started...

 
DONT 'change' out the big 3 man, stop saying that. just ADD WIRES. i dont want you to burn up your whip. and 170 amp alt = 170 amps= 170 amp fuse or higher. definately higher

 
x2o and dumpin, I hear ya, that is not a problem to leave the stock wiring as well... Just when I changed out the stock alt,batt etc...in my 93 mustang I changed out all the ground wire and ran new 1/0 gauge for everything...I used welding cable then and everything seemed great...But I hear you and will definitely just ADD the big 3 and not REPLACE the big 3...

I am not sure what 1/0 wire is amp rated for with a 12-14' run, that is what size fuses I need correct??? The fuses in line are there to protect each piece of wire not the equipment attached to it, correct...

So if anyone would like to let a brother know what is the correct amp rating for 1/0 wire and what the proper size fuse for between my 170amp alt and my batt would be...

Would 250amp for everywhere work???

Thanks for all the replies, just need a bit more help and I will be ready to gfet the last of this shit ordered and get started installing all of it...DOH...

 
Al- eds stuff is way to expensive. All the stuff that I've been price browsing has been at MSRP cost there. I think the RF T2 is like 800 bucks:crazy: their, at that price I could buy 2 of them with warrenty

 
al-eds is crazy expensive, but they price match other authorized dealers prices. So found best prices avail and they price matched...Rather go through a place that actually has a building so if they screw me at least I can burn down their shop...LOL..J/K...

I looked everywhere for the best deals w/ reputable dealers and tried to get most of my components from authorized dealers so my stuff will be covered by factory warranty...That was important to me...Don't know why but it was...

So you guys are saying that a cap is useless??? why is that??? Becuase I am taking care of the alt and battery, or are they useless regardless??? Only reason I bought a 15 pharad cap was because it was like a cap/batt setup, it was cheap and it looked just like the fused power/ground dblock I got...I guess it can't hurt and it will look good...

 
al-eds is crazy expensive, but they price match other authorized dealers prices. So found best prices avail and they price matched...Rather go through a place that actually has a building so if they screw me at least I can burn down their shop...LOL..J/K...
I looked everywhere for the best deals w/ reputable dealers and tried to get most of my components from authorized dealers so my stuff will be covered by factory warranty...That was important to me...Don't know why but it was...

So you guys are saying that a cap is useless??? why is that??? Becuase I am taking care of the alt and battery, or are they useless regardless??? Only reason I bought a 15 pharad cap was because it was like a cap/batt setup, it was cheap and it looked just like the fused power/ground dblock I got...I guess it can't hurt and it will look good...
It can and will hurt. The cap is useless, don't bother installing it. Thats just my opinion, it wont help at all. And no one answered you so here goes, you're correct the fuse is there to protect the wire so you fuse to the rating of the wire. 0 gauge is usually fused at 300 or 350 amps. Your not going to be pushing the limit of that wire so i would just go with 300 amp fuses. Good luck!

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

lvjeffro

10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Thread starter
lvjeffro
Joined
Location
las vegas
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
21
Views
1,461
Last reply date
Last reply from
terra
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top