0 & 4 gauge

[scrappy 10+ year member]

Okay here is the deal I have 4 gauge ran already. Im going to run 0 gauge within the next week. Do I run the 0 to my 1200.1 and keep the 4 in and run that to my 300.4? Or do I just run 0 and get a distru block. What is the advantages and disadvantages of doing either. I need to know soon because my dls comps and coaxils will be here today. Thanks for the replys

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[rideac1 10+ year member]

I had the same setup ( 4g already in and got 0g), I ran the 0 to a dist block, and then split to 2 4's for the amps. I used the 4g already in as the ground for my sub amp, in your case the 1200.1, direct to the battery ground. And my smaller amp, I just kept the same ground as I previously had. It works out well.

 

[zachzchw 5,000+ posts]

Id leave the 4 gauge in, just in case you ever want to do a major upgrade, and the 0 gauge wont cut it.....run the 0 to a distro, go from there......

 

[Raffi 10+ year member]

0 to block then 4 to amp!

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

theres no need to have 0awg from that amp straight to the batt, unless you plan on pulling 300A of current - wich i doubt you can even supply.

pull the 4awg, swap with 0awg. terminate the 0awg at the fuseblock in the trunk, run 4awg to each amp. the small distance from the distro to the amp with 4awg can carry just as much (if not more) current than the 0awg run from the engine.

dont worry about it.

 

[scrappy 10+ year member]

Would it matter if I kept the 4 in and ran a new 0 like I mentioned anything wrong with it, other than I dont need it. What Im trying to do is save the money from buying a block. But it seems like everyone is voting to pull the 4 run 0 with a block so Ill see what happens

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

theres no need to have 0awg from that amp straight to the batt, unless you plan on pulling 300A of current - wich i doubt you can even supply.
pull the 4awg, swap with 0awg. terminate the 0awg at the fuseblock in the trunk, run 4awg to each amp. the small distance from the distro to the amp with 4awg can carry just as much (if not more) current than the 0awg run from the engine.

dont worry about it.

with only 1200 -1500 watts would there be an noticable differance? in either helping the amps run more efficently or any other audiable differances?

 

[Insomniac119 10+ year member]

Depends if you consider the amp blowing up becuase you didn't buy a fused distro an audible difference or not.

 

[scrappy 10+ year member]

the power wire is fused already so how would a fused distro block matter? I think im going to just pull the 4 gauge and get a block

 

[Insomniac119 10+ year member]

I'm not sure on exactly how it works, but the fuse by the battery will only blow if the short is between the battery and the distro block. If there is a short between the amp and the distro block and the distro isn't fused, then the surge will distroy the amplifier. Like I said, I'm not exactly sure so if somebody could conferm/correct me?

It all depends on how much protection you want. People pay hundreds on alarms to protect their equipment, it just makes sense to pay a dozen bucks on a fused distro.

 

[Ignatowski 5,000+ posts]

0 to block then 4 to amp!

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[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

0 to block then 4 to amp!

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On an aside...and I'll most likely get royally flamed for even saying so but what real advantage is there in fusing the power supply cable before that supply gets to the amp(s)? Yes, I understand the premise - I'm not a complete dolt. However, in all my years of messing with aftermarket car audio to any extent I've neither bothered fusing the 12v supply nor have I ever once had any problems that the fuse(s) built into the amp didn't catch. I've shorted my fair share of power wires and popped more than a few fuses...but I've never burnt up an amp or even damaged one when it happened.

Ummm...isn't that what the bloody fuses in the amp are for? Not trying to be combative, folks, I've just never really comprehended the genuine necessity for the redundant fuses.

Just my opinion...