Recent content by IASCA pro 301-6

why do you need anything in the doors? Use the money you were going to spend there and get the next step up for you good speakers. If the rears have some factory speakers...just use those if you HAVE to use rear speakers. It's all just a opinion, but I would rather have great stereo sound...

I love your system layout so far...but I have one question: Why two pairs of mid/highs? I would reccomend getting a better set up front, and then bridging the amp to get more power to the better speakers. You would get better sound that way.

that would only work if your headunit had an aux input...but then you could not use your HU as a source. So, no...you can not mix it up like you described. But a better question: why are you so concerned about rear fill? I can understand that some people choose the 5.1 theater thing for the...

Uh...Atomic Dude... 1) Amps don't see speakers...they see a resistive load. You can hook up as many speakers as you want...and the amp will do the same to all of them, you just need to know HOW to hook them up, power then is shared...total power divided by number of speakers...assuming OHM...

And you have two pairs of door speakers as well as the dash mounted tweeters? I don't put much time and effort on anything in the rear...so I would run the rear doors with just the stock speakers and the headunit. Put a good amp on the front doors and tweets and the amp on the subs. Think...

I'm trying to figure why 6 channels are necessary? What is the vehicle and what is the rest of the system. As for immediate question, I would choose the Kickers any day of the week.

Need more info...What vehicle? What is the need...how much bass is necessary? What is the budget...it's hard to say unless the budget is know...$1,000 to some is not much, while to other's it's more than the car it's going into...

Waste of Money?? Depends...Did you NEED an EQ before you bought this? Did you need an EQ with only a few bands of adjustment? IF you needed it, and if you system was lacking, then you are fine. Think of it as Bass and Treble knobs on steroids...

I would really **** to have a car with a system sitting on the side of the road with a flat just waiting for someone to break into...

In leased cars, where modifications were not allowed, we would install preformed boxes and then use straps to secure the top of the box to the rear deck, where you could usually find somewhere to connect to. One other idea: get one of those rubber mats that you see under a rug...$5 at Wal Mart...

Well actually...you will more than likely have to turn the gains up higher as most home speakers are 8 ohm whereas most car audio amps are rated at 4 ohms...so you will more than likely get half the power by doing that...

With a bridged amp, set all gains the same. Each amp is slightly different in how they utilize the gain settings when bridged. Usually there is a master gain control, but from the amps that I have played with, the owners manuals have said to set gain controls even. Second part: with your...

It all depends on how you are getting the power. If you are going to power the sub with, let's say 300 watts at a 4 ohm load on an amp that can and should only run at 4 ohm...it will be fine. If you give it 300 watts at a 1 ohm load, and are pushing the amp past it's clipping range, then with...

I've never heard somebody complain because they had too much power, you just use less fo the amp to get the desired sound level and the amp doesn't work so hard and sound good. You read all the time about people that don't spend the money up front and get an underpowered amp. They then crank...

Chances are that you are dropping voltage for very small increments of time...you may just need a stiffing capacitor. Try one and see if that cures your issues...you should be able to fine one well under $100 for a standard cap without all the fancy lights and crap. See if you can borrow one...