Recent content by gsxrjjordan

Great amp! Used one of these for the front stage a while back, super clean. How can you tell which models were made here and which were overseas?

My Alpine unit has the DC/DC converter hanging off the back of the unit, attached by a thick green wire (looks about 4GA size, but I'm sure most of it's insulation).

Those components are very decent - you've got the CL-6 mids, Satnet 480 xover, and the TW-26 tweets? Big upgrade for whoever buys those would be the Satnet 560 xover.

Yup, no oil pressure + milky oil = blown headgasket, or worse. It's not an intake manifold problem. You can compression-test if you want to see where it's blown (which bank), aside from that, start looking at a rebuild.

Yeah, thanks for letting my steal this thing! Phyphoestilic is a great guy, nice audio toys too. Good luck getting your system finished

If you stop the speaker from moving with your hands, yes, it will sound different. Easiest way to check for blown speaker is to put a multimeter across the + and - posts and measure resistance across the voice coil(s). 4ohm will be somewhere 3.2-3.5 ohms, 2ohm somwhere around 1.6-1.9. Blown...

I'd recommend not running a rear stage if your budget is tight. Get a decent set of front components, and if you don't already have an amp for your front stage, plan on that next. You'll love yourself much more than if you just buy cheap **** all around (again).

CDT!!! In my opinion, you don't even need the Eurosport line, especially if you're running 85w... just run the CL6 woofer and DRT-25 tweets. I ran full active for a while, but like the tweets a lot better with the Satnet 560 crossover (upgrade to the CL-series, comes on the ES series sets)...

Yes. But the saving grace is, the Focal crossover probably protects the woofer and has your "real" HPF (signal to the midrange) somewhere around 100hz. No reason to go under 80hz if you actually are full active, it wont help your response @50hz or whatever you think you're going for. I set...

1) SQ 2) SPL 3) Cheap. Pick two. The IDQ12 posted in the first reply would be a great choice. If you got that ID amp also, you'd have some very respectable SQ too... if you wanted to save some money there are some other amps out there for cheaper. If you want to go louder, it's going to...

Yup, box and sub choice look good When picking gauge for wire, think of what's going through it and remember that you measure by the smallest part - you could run 12ga to your speakers, but if you're running 20ga to the crossover that will fail first.

Hahahahhahahhahahaha. Seriously, Lol. You guys. If you're using a head units power, I guess stock wiring makes sense... but feeding 50W+ RMS from an actual amp through factory wiring? WTF for? It's not that much more work to run the wire, and who can't afford 50ft of 14ga? I'll pay the...

I've tried to get all my components I've owned (Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5", OZ Matrix 180cs and lots of CDTs) to play lower than 200hz, and it just depends on the door. I've gotten much better response out of my VW GTi than any other car I've installed on... and bass response out my my Nissans...

What about an IDMax 10? I can't believe no one has mentioned it... too much SQ for ya? You should be able to find one used for around $200 on here, if anyone is in the unfortunate position to be selling one of the best 10" subs evarrrrrrrr ~ Other than that, the 10w7 sounds like the next best...

Lots of great info in this thread. I saw some unanswered questions along the way, but I don't know that the original posters are still around, so I won't go quoting/answering. As I'm trying to get back into car audio I'll be frequenting the board more often and can help answer them as they...