Recent content by BnGRacing

Sounds like a poor ground. Move the ground from the amp to chassis of the car to a new location. You may have grounded it in an area with a poor spot weld or you could have left too much paint/primer between the ring and sheet metal. Hell, I've seen people ground amps to seatbelt buckles and the...

The term you're looking for is "mixed mono". Yes, it can run all three speakers but you'll be in mono as the amp will think you're bridging it. The old Fosgate amps ran mixed mono fine...as did the Soundstreams so long as you RTFM'd. Does the amp have a switch that says 'Bridged Mode' or...

The idea of front & rear speakers matching actually comes from home audio. They call it 'timbre matching' and in a nice quiet open room, it makes a difference. In a vehicle like yours? You'll never know the difference. The speakers are mounted really low in the doors, they're pointed at...

The amp's protection circuitry is probably kicking in. It's probably either a short in one of the lines (bare wire touching chassis ground or a messed up VC) or the amp isn't getting enough current (bad ground). Make sure your amp is grounded on metal that isn't tack welded or painted over...

If you were able to hear both sets of speakers on a soundboard I think you'd find the HCCAs will walk all over the Z's. Aside from their impedance, those are the same speakers as the a/d/s/ 345is as both companies were under the DEI umbrella at the time. I own the a/d/s/ components and actually...

40w is less likely to blow them. Additionally, the 75w 'rating' is for the pair...not each individual driver. Gotta love marketing

Those old Boston Pros sounded great...but they didn't have a lot of output and they were really picky about the box size. The newer JL is more versatile when it comes to box dimensions and I'd bet you a case of beer that it'll have more output. Back in the day, I actually liked the Boston Rally...

I remember the CD8053 when it first came out and immediately bought one...hated it. While the SQ was great, it was the EQ, T/A, and X-overs that I thought were awful. Turn all that garbage off and it was a great HU. Flip them on and it never sounded right. At that time, Eclipse was way behind...

I remember the CD8053 when it first came out and immediately bought one...hated it. While the SQ was great, it was the EQ, T/A, and X-overs that I thought were awful. Turn all that garbage off and it was a great HU. Flip them on and it never sounded right. At that time, Eclipse was way behind...

eBay; look for one being sold by a lab and not one of those hand held things. I picked up a Phillips O-scope for $35 a while ago and it had a calibration sticker on it from Fluke that wasn't 90 days old. Absolutely stole it. I'd also check out Craigslist and see if a school/community college is...

Why do you want to go active? If you have a good set of components with a bit of thought put into the passive crossovers, you'll be chasing ghosts for a while trying to get a better sound. Time alignment is neat, but the level setting and EQing is a major PITA and, from experience, you'll never...

If I put a 120A fuse in a housing that's only rated for 50A (which a lot of cheap amps do) - do you really think looking at the silk screen on the fuse is going to tell you much? No, it isn't. This is a case of getting what you pay for. At 10c a watt, do you really think this is a quality...

You won't regret that decision at all. If I were to replace my Xtant 3300c, I'd snag the new JL XD 3ch or Arc Audio's 3ch. Tiny things. And don't worry about thinking you HAVE to send that JL woofer 500w. That's kind of a bogus number as JL changed their ratings on all their subs b/c internet...

You want efficient speakers. Alpine speakers are not efficient and have always been a bit on the mellow side. That's their 'timbre' and it's been that way since I can remember. Aside from the old DDDrives, I've never been a fan of Alpine's speaker offerings...but I'm REALLY picky with my front...

If you can smell your speakers it's already too late. ... Your HU does not put out 22w a channel...it's actually nowhere near that. Try 5w. Manufacturers come up with those numbers by clipping the tiny IC into a coma and only driving 1 channel. One sleazy thing Kenwood used to do is claim...