Featured About IB Enclosures

Something to think about with ib is that the frequency rolls off faster. So you may need beefy midbass or a front sub to cover 40-50 and up depending where your rolloff is.
 
People cringe when told modifying the structure of the parcel shelf or the permanence of the modification. Last one I was involved in was 2 15s and required the entire lip of the parcel shelf removed for the cone height. Then 3/4" material was used in place of that wimpy crap the factory uses for the rear deck. Foamed into the remaining metal structure with gussets on the bottom inside the trunk /w/ a 1/8' medite upholstered trim panel covering everything. It was permanent make no mistake.
Rear stage deleted of course (that was a fight) and 8" in the front doors, 6.5 in the kicks /w/ 2" softies in the pillars and a ton of active Eq.
It didn't hit or slam so to speak but was impressive in its own way. I prefer a well designed T-Line over IB for that sound myself.
Jmo
Last IB I did was 2x 10" Type S subs fired thru the 6×9 holes in the rear deck. For some reason Alpine made that generation of the Type S with ~.65 qts. It had the "m" surround, which simplified mounting from below. Not the loudest system, but not bad for a pair of ~$70/each subs and ~400wrms.
 
I do plan on also doing a full sealed front stage for the mids. I picked up a set of Recoil Components thats im going to switch over to Dayton classic woofers too which from what they say performs well in a car door. Trying

Im not concerned about big numbers. I prefer a more efficient setup as im not planning on getting a high output alternator. I have a JP13 to play with which is extremely efficient at 4 and 2 ohms. 91 percent I believe. I've had my experience with big ol stuff woofers wired at one ohm with terrible efficiently and im never happy with it. Sealed sounds good but efficiency goes out the window. I want something that'll blend nicely with the front stage when playing rock and metal, but also want to be able to have a nice chest hitting louder subwoofer stage for rap or any song where bass is the main focus.

Do you have any recommendations for cheaper IB drivers? I dont want to be s0ending $400 per woofer. Maybe $200ish. Besides the cheap Tremor series, I was looking audio the HO or UM series from Dayton Audio. Any idea if those would be good?
The UM looks like a nice option. The high qts is perfect for IB and 24mm of xmax is pretty good at that price range. I wouldn't bother with HO. The HF makes more sense as power handling is a bigger factor for ported or small sealed enclosures. I think Reference HF makes more sense for your application.
 
The dayton hf series subs play higher cleaner. The ho series are excellent subs with good output while maintaining a very nice sound.

For ib I'd personally go with the Ultramax
 
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The UM looks like a nice option. The high qts is perfect for IB and 24mm of xmax is pretty good at that price range. I wouldn't bother with HO. The HF makes more sense as power handling is a bigger factor for ported or small sealed enclosures. I think Reference HF makes more sense for your application.
I was researching some Qts just refreshing myself. I really don't think the Qts is as important as Fs and xmax and cone area. Q is sort of like inverse damping so like low Q means more woofer damping around Fs. So high Q woofer will xmax more near Fs being the Q is higher, low damping of itself...which can maybe help with low bass or bass output increase around Fs, but just from my t-line experience I think it's more about getting the most cone area and most xmax and most rms you can fit inside of a space. I'm not saying you're wrong, I just think more what he needs to look for is specifically designed IB subs, like Fi had the IB3 for a while but they don't make that anymore. Unless he wants to purchase a crazy car audio sub and just use it at lower rms to not bottom out instead of actual IB sub.
 
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I just think more what he needs to look for is specifically designed IB subs
There's plenty of off the shelf subs that do good ib. The skar 18 actually does really good. HO and Ultramax daytons are good. Stereo integrity sql subs do really good.

For a budget friendly sub designed for ib I'd do one of these

 
There's plenty of off the shelf subs that do good ib. The skar 18 actually does really good. HO and Ultramax daytons are good. Stereo integrity sql subs do really good.

For a budget friendly sub designed for ib I'd do one of these

Yeah, really I think any of the modern super huge xmax subs might work well for sort of IB in a trunk. Like you do 2 high xmax sundown 15's, there's so much air movement there you might actually be able to make pressure in the trunk to support the cone and add more power. Idk woofer maybe like the nightshades, I'm not up to date but they used to have 54mm of one way xmax. I've seen sundowns used in full horn walls at high power at like 155-160db in the 20 hz range, where the horn loads more like ported because there's so much sub in a tiny space, the air in the entire vehicle reaches such a high pressure, it allows mechanical loading in the horn line regardless, cone control more like ported vs free air. I'm just saying if you do IB in a trunk and get enough xmax back there you might actually be able to dump some power into it, but you know this is all talk.
 
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There's plenty of off the shelf subs that do good ib. The skar 18 actually does really good. HO and Ultramax daytons are good. Stereo integrity sql subs do really good.

For a budget friendly sub designed for ib I'd do one of these

Ah thanks bro! That's what I was looking for! I forgot Fi did that and the IB3's are sold through them!

OP- check this woofer out!


@Blackout67 I know they're not cheep but they hold the power, high rms IB power, used to be an Fi sub FYI. I'd try to get these if I did IB. 1125w rms on an IB woofer!
 
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I'd personally do a pair of 8s or a single 10maybe a single 12 in a Tline but understand its the same bs... low power. With today's subs and efficiencies for the most part they require an enclosure. Ever have a legit tuned ported enclosure done by a legit designer? Either way its goals and willingness to sacrifice space. Understanding your options goes well beyond what you hear. To experience a well designed ported enclosure should silence any concerns. Some drivers perform and others really perform in their environment.
Those 3 laws still apply.
Agreed. Most subs today are really designed to be ported, but the OP hasn't really addressed what output he's looking for.
 
I was researching some Qts just refreshing myself. I really don't think the Qts is as important as Fs and xmax and cone area. Q is sort of like inverse damping so like low Q means more woofer damping around Fs. So high Q woofer will xmax more near Fs being the Q is higher, low damping of itself...which can maybe help with low bass or bass output increase around Fs, but just from my t-line experience I think it's more about getting the most cone area and most xmax and most rms you can fit inside of a space. I'm not saying you're wrong, I just think more what he needs to look for is specifically designed IB subs, like Fi had the IB3 for a while but they don't make that anymore. Unless he wants to purchase a crazy car audio sub and just use it at lower rms to not bottom out instead of actual IB sub.
In my experience, high q subs have a cleaner more detailed sound in an IB.
 
There's plenty of off the shelf subs that do good ib. The skar 18 actually does really good. HO and Ultramax daytons are good. Stereo integrity sql subs do really good.

For a budget friendly sub designed for ib I'd do one of these

This was one of tbe first ones that popped up when I searched IB woofers. The price point kinda scared me away cause I was looking at getting at least two of them snd thats would be over $500 after taxes with two.

You think one 15 would be good if itd fit?
 
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