Featured Find myself back with an issue I know little about & could use help

[azJETSclan]

OK. So The sad thing...I dont remember the exacts on my system anymore. I have Crossfire 12's in a custom box downward firing, drove by a crossfire C5 1000D, Audio Dynamics ADMK 1000.6 driving the Audio dynamics mids & highs (front & rear) as well as a pair of kicker 8s on the door for mid bass. Went with an aftermarket high output alternator & 2nd battery. (& the check engine light has been on ever since! Had to throttle the voltage down. New cars dont like 14V I guess)with a Stinger SGP35 (only throwing that in there cause I dont know shyt & thought it MAY help LOL) .

Seems my amp is dead (installer told me to check the impedance on the disconnected sub wired & I got a range of 1.5-2.0 ohms. So he said my amp is dead) The amp has the blue light on for power, I smelled no smoke when it stopped working & it hasnt returned since. IF its new amp time...IDK where to start. I dont have a great budget, but Id rather pay a little more now...than a LOT more later. Seems Crossfire is no longer an option either. I LOVE my BOOM BOOMS, & SQ more...(ya, found out well after the fact the subs I got were not the best choice for SQ )

So I guess what I am asking is...is there a way to test the amp before buying something new. Then, is I have to get something new (current amp is under the seat) what should I consider? I will trunk mount if I HAVE to...but prefer another under seat. The pics are old, but same gear. & if Im being honest...I have no CLUE what the dam "bassRESTOR" by Wavtech even DOES!

ALL help is appreciated & thanks in advance if you got this far...BIG thanks if you have a suggestion/recommendation =D

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[Deiimos]

Simplest test is to connect you phone to the amp RCA inputs with a headphone to RCA adapter cord and see if it makes sound / bass.

If that "bass restorer" is still in line with the Crossfire amp, unhook the RCA’s from it and plug the main head unit and or LOC RCA's directly into the amp, small chance the bass restorer took a dump and is quick to bypass.

If that fails, can wiggle the switches on the amp, just remember what setting it needs to be on, but I have had amps with dirty switches. Same with the level / gain pots. If it is a newer amp a few years old, this is much less likely a problem, but costs nothing to try if the amp is not working otherwise.

 

[azJETSclan]

Simplest test is to connect you phone to the amp RCA inputs with a headphone to RCA adapter cord and see if it makes sound / bass.

If that "bass restorer" is still in line with the Crossfire amp, unhook the RCA’s from it and plug the main head unit and or LOC RCA's directly into the amp, small chance the bass restorer took a dump and is quick to bypass.

If that fails, can wiggle the switches on the amp, just remember what setting it needs to be on, but I have had amps with dirty switches. Same with the level / gain pots. If it is a newer amp a few years old, this is much less likely a problem, but costs nothing to try if the amp is not working otherwise.

Looks like its "buy an amp" season. Installer says

ADSD2000.1 $650 (or 750, getting a straight answer is never easy LOL) BUT I am liking the Kicker 46CXA1800.1 @$500.00. I just dont really know what the specs are on the AD (the site is less than informative) & Kicker is a name that has stood the test of time. THOUGHTS?​

 

[Deiimos]

I try not to recommend any specific products. That said, I think you can do better for your money than a Kicker amp. I say don't jump into buying anything just yet, give it a few days, let some of the other members make some suggestions on a new amp. I know nothing about Audio Dynamics so can't comment on that one at all.

I like the Kicker brand, but you can do better for your money in my opinion.

Lastly, you can sell your "blown" Crossfire amp on ebay or such, people will buy it to fix / resell. I use to buy dead amps all the time and it was hard to get a bargain there were so many people doing it. It will recoup you a little, should net $50-$100 or somewhere roughly around that.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

If the pricing you're getting is minimum $500 for an amplifier I'm certain you'll find something that meets or exceeds your current power level. That said this is pretty much local to you, in Tucson.
Idk if the footprint works for your underseat location but it'll power your subs for probably a little less than $500... Lol.
I try to support locals when possible and there is a warehouse full of RDS products in Tucson.
https://rds-audio.com/amps/
The 1500.1 should work for your needs

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

2,000 Watt Class D Monoblock Amplifier Car Audio | MT-2000.1

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stingersolutions.com

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$188

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

What caused your OG amp to blow??

Hopefully you don't go spending more money for the same thing to happen again..

 

[azJETSclan]

Welp, for an update: Amp DEF toast (LITERALLY) Patience is not my thing & I ended up with the AD2000.1 My installer knows how I drive with volume UP ALL the time, so the subs are hitting a lil harder & its turned down enough that I can safely run it for the next 4 years. I cant complain too much, this crossfire did last me 4 years. Never really "Pushed" it, but it served me well...RIP

 

[Deiimos]

What kind of connectors are on the ends of the power wire? Looks a bit odd. Melted terminals is caused from a poor connection, that is the only reason amp terminals will melt like that. Be careful with your new amp and how the wiring is connected or it may end up with the same fate.

That Crossfire amp should be repairable though with a bit of work.