Well, you can do a lot of things. I would recommend maybe getting an amp/DSP 4 channel and using it for the DSP and the additional 4 channels of amplification.
Which Hertz comps (model),
Which JL's?
What are the current 4 channel and 2 channel sub amplifiers?
- AND -
What is the budget.
Which Hertz comps (model),
Which JL's?
What are the current 4 channel and 2 channel sub amplifiers?
- AND -
What is the budget.
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Better yet, sell the 4 channel amp that you have and get one of these. I know for a fact that if you email him and offer $599, he'll take it.
It would give you 400 x 2 for the comp's and 125 x 2 forthe tweeters. Full DSP for all as it has a DSP output for the sub amp you;re running. If you should decide to go with a hertz 3-way front end, you still get 125 x 6 if you make the change, pretty sweet option.
I have used a number of DSP units too. If you;re a bigginier, the AC is probably the easiest to learn and there is a boatload out there on how that is done. Their support is very good too.
That Audiocontrol DSP amp is a beast and that amp at $599 is a very good price indeed.
It would give you 400 x 2 for the comp's and 125 x 2 forthe tweeters. Full DSP for all as it has a DSP output for the sub amp you;re running. If you should decide to go with a hertz 3-way front end, you still get 125 x 6 if you make the change, pretty sweet option.
I have used a number of DSP units too. If you;re a bigginier, the AC is probably the easiest to learn and there is a boatload out there on how that is done. Their support is very good too.
That Audiocontrol DSP amp is a beast and that amp at $599 is a very good price indeed.
- Thread Starter
- #4
I have the Hertz 6.5 Centros.
The subs are JL Audio 10W3v3-4’s.
The 4 channel is a Phoenix Gold MQ-430. It produces 4x90 at 2 ohms. I want to keep this amp on the system. It sounds great and I had Stephen Mantz recap it.
The amp I have on the subs is a Phoenix Gold MS-275. I am going to buy a different amp to run the subs. The current amp sounds good, but I would like to run 1000 watts to the subs. I was thinking about trying out one of these D’Amore Engineering amps. The E1500-1 produces 950 at 2 ohms. https://damoreengineering.com/products/e1500-1
I was also considering a RF T1000.
Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP
Power Series mono sub amplifier 1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
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that's a decent amp for sure. In that price range there are a whole bunch of options. Stinger has a similar unit that is right around $210. it's an in-house Stinger design by a very reputable Stinger Engineer.
Gives you 1500 watts a 2ohms, a better option as it affords you the ability to set the gains more conservatively and also provides you several hundred watts of headroom.
The RF is a regulated PS and will output the same at 1 or 2 ohms, good amp, asking price is pretty steep $$.
Consider a lesser cost monoblock and invest in a Helix 6 DSPor MiniDSP with Dirac DSP, much better option that spending excessive amounts on the RF
Gives you 1500 watts a 2ohms, a better option as it affords you the ability to set the gains more conservatively and also provides you several hundred watts of headroom.
The RF is a regulated PS and will output the same at 1 or 2 ohms, good amp, asking price is pretty steep $$.
Consider a lesser cost monoblock and invest in a Helix 6 DSPor MiniDSP with Dirac DSP, much better option that spending excessive amounts on the RF
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- Thread Starter
- #7
I have the Hertz 6.5 Centros.
The subs are JL Audio 10W3v3-4’s.
The 4 channel is a Phoenix Gold MQ-430. It produces 4x90 at 2 ohms. I want to keep this amp on the system. It sounds great and I had Stephen Mantz recap it.
The amp I have on the subs is a Phoenix Gold MS-275. I am going to buy a different amp to run the subs. The current amp sounds good, but I would like to run 1000 watts to the subs. I was thinking about trying out one of these D’Amore Engineering amps. The E1500-1 produces 950 at 2 ohms. https://damoreengineering.com/products/e1500-1
I am definitely a beginner when it comes to dsp. The way I want to run it is as follows:
Front Left 6.5” mid & 1’ high
Front Right 6.5” mid & 1’ high
Rear Left 6.5” mid & 1’ high
Rear Right 6.5” mid & 1’ high
Sub 2 - 10s.
This is the way I have it set up now using the hertz crossovers. I use the head unit crossover for the subs.
Run the A/B 4 channel you have to the fronts through a DSP unit bypassing the passives altogether. run a decent 4 x 50-75 to the rears or a two channel 100 x2 using the passives in the rears if you like. I would get decent 4 channel for the rear and and a Mini DSP 8x12 with Dirac live, the auto tune function will get you about 90% of the way to a decent tune while you learn the ropes.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/cdsp-8x12-dl $940 (inc calibration mic)
this for the 4 speakers in the rear (this amp is rated at 4 x 50 but is closer to 4 x 65) $249
monoblock $209
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN2JLBQ6/?tag=caraudiocom-20
All active, AB up front, class D for rear fill, 1500 watts for the subs.
Done.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/cdsp-8x12-dl $940 (inc calibration mic)
this for the 4 speakers in the rear (this amp is rated at 4 x 50 but is closer to 4 x 65) $249
AUDIO CONTROL ACX 300.4 ALL WEATHER 4 CHANNEL AMPLIFIER | eBay
Installer-friendly, heavy gauge quick-connect wiring makes installation quick and painless, making the ACX-300.4 all-weather amplifier the perfect solution for your next adventure. All Weather Four Channel Amplifier.
monoblock $209
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN2JLBQ6/?tag=caraudiocom-20
All active, AB up front, class D for rear fill, 1500 watts for the subs.
Done.
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With your MS-275 and the AC LC 4.300 you will have 8 channels of amplification for the front and rear comps. You will go from the head unit to the DSP in front/rear/sub inputs.
You will then go from the DSP 8 out to the 8 channels in of the two main amps for front and the rear, bypassing the passive crossovers. You should start with a hi-pass of 12 db x-over on the dsp for the tweeters at 2.5khz and mdbass with the hi-pass at 60 and the low pass at 2.5 khz to blend at the same or near the same crossover point as the tweeters; that is what the passives x-overs are set at from the factory. The beauty of DSP is you can play with the crossover points to see what sounds best. The That leaves 4 channels for the sub, you only need 1 or two out to your sub.
I would put one of these on every tweeter to protect them from low end should the DSP fail.
These are Metalized polypropylene which is superior to non polar electrolytics. I don't like using electrolytics in the signal path.
You set the amps to all pass/bypass and use the dsp to set the crossover points for every driver, very clean and no loss of power or possible phase issue induced by passive crossovers.
The same is done with the DSP for the subwoofer amp, all crossovers are set on the DSP prior to amplification. Once you set the amps manual gains then you can also tweak then in the DSP software too. This is particularly helpful on the channels powering the tweeters.
You will then go from the DSP 8 out to the 8 channels in of the two main amps for front and the rear, bypassing the passive crossovers. You should start with a hi-pass of 12 db x-over on the dsp for the tweeters at 2.5khz and mdbass with the hi-pass at 60 and the low pass at 2.5 khz to blend at the same or near the same crossover point as the tweeters; that is what the passives x-overs are set at from the factory. The beauty of DSP is you can play with the crossover points to see what sounds best. The That leaves 4 channels for the sub, you only need 1 or two out to your sub.
I would put one of these on every tweeter to protect them from low end should the DSP fail.
These are Metalized polypropylene which is superior to non polar electrolytics. I don't like using electrolytics in the signal path.
You set the amps to all pass/bypass and use the dsp to set the crossover points for every driver, very clean and no loss of power or possible phase issue induced by passive crossovers.
The same is done with the DSP for the subwoofer amp, all crossovers are set on the DSP prior to amplification. Once you set the amps manual gains then you can also tweak then in the DSP software too. This is particularly helpful on the channels powering the tweeters.
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