Ford F-150 Rear Subs

Well there are a lot of amps in this category. Keeping in the $150 to $250.00 rang.

There is the CT,

https://www.ctsounds.com/products/c...6F-VBTFgBv9HqjmpgPAo7DisSlapw34RoC80YQAvD_BwE

These guys are getting good reviews on YouTube and their stuff is no-nonsense. I’ve had their 1200.0 in my grandsons car for a year and it runs cool and no issues to date. You could run the impedance three ways,. You can run one of the woofers in series at 8, the other parallel at 2, then the two woofers in parallel to the amp for an 1.6 ohm load for about 1700 watts, run each sub in series to 8ohms and them in parallel to this amp and it would not break a sweat and still give you 840 watts at 4ohms or run them at 2 each paralleled to 1 at 2500 watts at 1ohm if you are crazy, but personally , I like to run things at 4 ohms, letting them produce gobs of power but not working hard to do it. Amps are at their best (Efficiency and damping) at 4 ohms, this amp gives you the best of both worlds. It’s rather large, but… $179.99! At 840watts, it’s going to get really loud!

Amazon product ASIN B0BZ8CKX6C
I like the Taramps HD3000 $189.86

Amazon product ASIN B07Y3XNTPZ
Brazilian design from NVX, right in-between at $219.00

Amazon product ASIN B098XTJK96
And around the price of the JBL is the newer Taramps Smart Bass 3k at $284.00

Amazon product ASIN B0BZJXRNXY
OR this one too –

Amazon product ASIN B08CVT1F93
You’re going to see a lot of others that fall into this price range, most likely all good choices. I would stay in the 1000+ wattage range for these two woofers. I try to get amps that deliver at least 50% more than the woofers are rated for so I can run them at the higher (2-4ohm) impedances and keep them cool and get the best headroom from them too. That applies for all these amps and all that are capable of 1-4 ohms.
 
What would a good amp be to run two of those AB subs? Since they are both 500W RMS I would need around 1,000W at 2ohms right? I'm looking for good quality sound and something that won't light my truck on fire :ROFLMAO:
Two DVC4 ohm subs you can wire to a final 1 ohm load,and you will want to look for a 1ohm stable mono amplifier. I have 2 CT sounds 2ks, and running one atm, and a CT Sounds 150.4. Both amps serve very well. The 1000.1, or the 1500.1 are a great choice for a mono amplifier from CT Sounds. The 1000.1 and the 1500.1 you can use the 4ga OFC supply I mentioned earlier for the supply, If you choose the 2000.1, Id recommend getting the 0ga OFC wiring kit.Id shop around on the A.Bass ES series subs.Ive seen a a pair on Ebay sales for just under $300 with Free shipping.Even if you decide on the Tropo Series subs, it wouldnt take much to increase the opening on the enclosure as it looks to be 5/8" thick to make those work
 
I am changing it up a bit. I've come across a superior enclosure from Fox Acoustics that can accommodate speakers with a depth of up to 6.25 inches. I heard the box was designed to accommodate two Alpine R2-W10D4 subwoofers but I haven't done any research on them yet. All powered by the CT-2000.1D amplifier. Yall swayed me towards CT Sounds, It looks like they have some good stuff and they are have a flash sale right now! 🥳
 
I am changing it up a bit. I've come across a superior enclosure from Fox Acoustics that can accommodate speakers with a depth of up to 6.25 inches. I heard the box was designed to accommodate two Alpine R2-W10D4 subwoofers but I haven't done any research on them yet. All powered by the CT-2000.1D amplifier. Yall swayed me towards CT Sounds, It looks like they have some good stuff and they are have a flash sale right now! 🥳
The 0ga OFC amp kit is on Sale also for just under $100 bucks! I can Vouch for that 2k. Mine gets down. Id recommend the 150.4 if you need a 4 ch as well. No issues with either amplifier

 
The 0ga OFC amp kit is on Sale also for just under $100 bucks! I can Vouch for that 2k. Mine gets down. Id recommend the 150.4 if you need a 4 ch as well. No issues with either amplifier

So if the CT-2000.1D is beefy enough to drive 2 of those Alpine R2-W10D4 what's the point of getting the 0 gauge cable over the 4 gauge? The 4 gauge is rated for 2,000 Watts and matches the peak for that amp. Thanks again =)
 
So if the CT-2000.1D is beefy enough to drive 2 of those Alpine R2-W10D4 what's the point of getting the 0 gauge cable over the 4 gauge? The 4 gauge is rated for 2,000 Watts and matches the peak for that amp. Thanks again =)
Because power wire failure isn't pretty or something you really wanna experience 😂

And the carrying capacity of wire isn't measured in watts...it's measured in amps...

 
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So if the CT-2000.1D is beefy enough to drive 2 of those Alpine R2-W10D4 what's the point of getting the 0 gauge cable over the 4 gauge? The 4 gauge is rated for 2,000 Watts and matches the peak for that amp. Thanks again =)
Sorry man.. Been busy since 3am. Taking a short break atm. @spokey9 gots it Covered man, Thanks by the way. That amp will and can produce more than the Peak level. I am running 1 of 2-2ks atm on my temp setup on a Pair of American Bass Aluminum Basket XFL 12s DVC4s @1 ohm @ 31Htz in one of my 98 Xcabs Chevys (3 drs). Swlamms the 12s just fine, and also served just fine @2ohms on a Pair of S.qubed HDS310s DVC2 ohm 10s in 4.0@32 Htz.
 
Sweet! I just purchased the Wiring kit and the Amp! Do I need to swap out the main fuse for the wiring kit? The wiring kit comes with a 300 amp fuse and the amp recommends using a 200A fuse. Also I notice there were no external fuses on this amp like there are on others. Does this mean it has internal fuses? I'm waiting to purchase the subs and box for labor day weekend. Thanks a ton!
1693510482975.png
 
Sweet! I just purchased the Wiring kit and the Amp! Do I need to swap out the main fuse for the wiring kit? The wiring kit comes with a 300 amp fuse and the amp recommends using a 200A fuse. Also I notice there were no external fuses on this amp like there are on others. Does this mean it has internal fuses? I'm waiting to purchase the subs and box for labor day weekend. Thanks a ton!
View attachment 52092
One fuse (the 300) goes close to the battery to protect the power wire...then close to the amp you'll add another fuse (whatever size the manufacturer suggests) to protect the amp itself
 
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