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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC
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<blockquote data-quote="audiobaun" data-source="post: 8843354" data-attributes="member: 634282"><p>Part#1</p><p>A270-300 amp alt should be just fine for 4-5k with at least two agms with 1000 CA and 800 CCA with 120 min res.( Stay away from the Optimus Red tops and Yellow Tops those are garbage batteries.) and the Big 3 done all in 1/0 OFC or Welding flex type cable copper. Use Copper Lugs and sand the coating off on them before attaching. Dontt waste money on a crimper unless you intend to use daily or monthly.A flat concrete floor with a 2lb sledge hammer works just fine then use a punch to make 3 indentions on each side with hold just fine and either Heat Shrink or use electrical tape(Your Choice). As Far as cutting the wiring? A couple snips with the end of some Fisk Gargen shears is remarkable and cuts effortlessly using the edge like snipping and not placing the entire wire in the middle to cut. Ask me as I know. LOL. The best batteries Ive used so far have been the Super Start AGM from Orileys and recently the Duralast Gold from Autozone. i like the Orileys due to being able to get the double post for my truck. the Duracell plat. are very nice as well. I recently put in 4 in my brothers van. one under the hood and 3 in a battery box for an Off grid type vehicle 34/78 batteries. No sense in spending a Shitt load of money for what you are putting in.You are deff going to need for of a front stage to keep up with the 15s @1 ohm load. Id recommend the Polk Audio MM series up front and a set of DB in the rears and the 150.4 CT Sounds amp for them. Prep the front doors while they are accessible. DO NOT PUT THE XOVERS IN THE DOORS. Many people do and they will fail sooner than placing them under the dash(Zip tie them easy enough) or under the front seats or kick panels, of which will also give you access to change the tweeter freq. if you get tired of one setting,and keeps them dry and a bit more moisture free, and from continual door slamming and possible loosing a cap or two, and a screw eventually of which now you have to remove the door panel to see WHY MY Speakers are cutting out on the right side??And what the hell is that rattling in the door?? Cont. with PART #2</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="audiobaun, post: 8843354, member: 634282"] Part#1 A270-300 amp alt should be just fine for 4-5k with at least two agms with 1000 CA and 800 CCA with 120 min res.( Stay away from the Optimus Red tops and Yellow Tops those are garbage batteries.) and the Big 3 done all in 1/0 OFC or Welding flex type cable copper. Use Copper Lugs and sand the coating off on them before attaching. Dontt waste money on a crimper unless you intend to use daily or monthly.A flat concrete floor with a 2lb sledge hammer works just fine then use a punch to make 3 indentions on each side with hold just fine and either Heat Shrink or use electrical tape(Your Choice). As Far as cutting the wiring? A couple snips with the end of some Fisk Gargen shears is remarkable and cuts effortlessly using the edge like snipping and not placing the entire wire in the middle to cut. Ask me as I know. LOL. The best batteries Ive used so far have been the Super Start AGM from Orileys and recently the Duralast Gold from Autozone. i like the Orileys due to being able to get the double post for my truck. the Duracell plat. are very nice as well. I recently put in 4 in my brothers van. one under the hood and 3 in a battery box for an Off grid type vehicle 34/78 batteries. No sense in spending a Shitt load of money for what you are putting in.You are deff going to need for of a front stage to keep up with the 15s @1 ohm load. Id recommend the Polk Audio MM series up front and a set of DB in the rears and the 150.4 CT Sounds amp for them. Prep the front doors while they are accessible. DO NOT PUT THE XOVERS IN THE DOORS. Many people do and they will fail sooner than placing them under the dash(Zip tie them easy enough) or under the front seats or kick panels, of which will also give you access to change the tweeter freq. if you get tired of one setting,and keeps them dry and a bit more moisture free, and from continual door slamming and possible loosing a cap or two, and a screw eventually of which now you have to remove the door panel to see WHY MY Speakers are cutting out on the right side??And what the hell is that rattling in the door?? Cont. with PART #2 [/QUOTE]
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Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC
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