Difficulty With Box Build For American Bass XR 10's

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Mudflap

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I've started to hate planning my build for 2 American Bass 10's that will go behind my seat of my wrangler. This design idea is that it they can be played while the rear seat is still there, so I made the box at more of an angle than the seat is so there a bit of room back there for the sub. When I so choose so, I can fold the seat forward so it doesn't matter at all when I don't have passangers. If anyone has tips for this type of "behind the seat enclosure" please let me know because it seems like a difficult task compared to a regular box build. But basically I ran into 3 issues.

1) The cardboard mock up I made shows that I can squeeze out 2.7-2.75 cubic feet minimum behind the seat (only accounting for MDF displacement.) I think I may be able to squeeze a bit more out but I'm playing it safe with these numbers for now. I read on the American Bass website that each sub requires 1.25-1.5 cubic feet, but not given any real T/S parameters, I don't really know what would be optimal for a ported box of this build. I spoke to the owner, Bob, on the phone and he recommended a box of something around 4 cubes, which I wish I had, but also seems a bit oversized. Nice guy, but never got back to me with the T/S parameters. Do you guys think that giving a minimum of 1.25 cubes per sub after everything would be enough?

2) Since this box is pretty slanted, I only got a little over 3 inches on the top side of my box. This doesn't leave me with a lot of room to make an aero port on the top like I planned on doing before. I can try to do on on the side but even then I can't squeeze much port area out of the side either because the box is so thin and wide. I could also try putting a port in the middle, top, front part in the box where the box is a couple inches away from the seat, but I'm thinking that's going to affect it too much. I can also try extending the box past the seat, but I don't know well it would work to be honest. I'm also considering a side port, but there are so many ideas that just don't seem to be easy. How much space should I have from the surface of the port? Also should I do 1 or 2 port(s)?

3) My old setup was facing right against my trunk and I found it to be much louder in a friends car when in a conventional trunk. I still think it was considerably louder in his trunk too compared to when I put it on my seat. The subs will be mounted close to the floor and at the bottom so I'm not sure how this will change the acoustics. Do you think having the subs facing into the cabin and close to the floor allow for much loading on the driver for good cabin gain? Also do you think the seat folded forwards allow for some loading since the subs are pointed towards it?

I know this is really hard to conceptualize, even with it in front of you, but I'm kinda stumped on it so I came here. Here's pictures I took off google of the trunk, just ignore the metal storage shelf in the picture. I planned out to make the box go all the way up the seat. The other picture is what it looks like when the seat is folded forwards all the way. Ignore the perfectly engineered subwoofer build they made.

171394.jpgFunky Build.jpg

TL;DR:
1)
Is 2.7-2.75 cubic feet of internal volume (not accounting for port and sub displacement) good enough for 2 American Bass 10's?
2) What type of port do you recommend and where do you think I should put it? Should I do 1 or 2 port(s)? And how far do I need to make a port away from a surface?
3) Do you think I will have issues with phase cancelation, or not enough loading for the sub? Will the seat folded forwards allow for any loading to occur? I'm not too well versed in the acoustics of a car.

Thanks for the help on this huge post!
 
A 2 - 10" box always sounds like a single 12" box to me. A 2 -12" box also sounds like a single 15" box to me. I could be wrong. 2 - 6½'s box equals one 8". 2 - 8" equals 1 - 10". Has anybody else picked up on this?
Yeah I thought that I could put a single 12 in there, but it would be a little oversized I feel. I wish I had the T/S parameters because I don't really know for this sub. Is it still worth building this box for 2 10s if a single 12 might beat it in this size?
 
Yeah I thought that I could put a single 12 in there, but it would be a little oversized I feel. I wish I had the T/S parameters because I don't really know for this sub. Is it still worth building this box for 2 10s if a single 12 might beat it in this size?

Do two 10's in 2.5 cubes net tuned to 32 - 35 hz.
 
Anything 2.5-3cubes should sound fine with 2 10s. Either side has it's benifits. In most cases smaller boxes take more power mechanically and run into thermal limits first and vise versa for large boxes

I find that larger boxes also allow subs to play a few hz lower than the tuning than small boxes

I also can say that normally smaller boxes peak harder or more narrowly than bigger boxes.

Best thing to do is model the enclosure up using the subs ts parameters then figure out your cabin gain and build the box around the cabin gain taking into account your personal listening preferences. Cabin gain is added to the predicted response the box building program gives you. It can in some cases take away from that predicted response as well. It may be up 6db at 40hz but down 6db at 60hz only way to know is the test the vehicle and figure it out
 
Anything 2.5-3cubes should sound fine with 2 10s. Either side has it's benifits. In most cases smaller boxes take more power mechanically and run into thermal limits first and vise versa for large boxes

I find that larger boxes also allow subs to play a few hz lower than the tuning than small boxes

I also can say that normally smaller boxes peak harder or more narrowly than bigger boxes.

Best thing to do is model the enclosure up using the subs ts parameters then figure out your cabin gain and build the box around the cabin gain taking into account your personal listening preferences. Cabin gain is added to the predicted response the box building program gives you. It can in some cases take away from that predicted response as well. It may be up 6db at 40hz but down 6db at 60hz only way to know is the test the vehicle and figure it out

The problem is that he can't find the t/s parameters for that sub. Bob from American Bass keeps the t/s parameters of his subs like they are a national secret.
 
The problem is that he can't find the t/s parameters for that sub. Bob from American Bass keeps the t/s parameters of his subs like they are a national secret.

I'd still probably build 2.75-3cubes for the pair. Tuning 34-36hz you should still have an f3 around 30hz. Cabin gain doesn't need ts parameters and you can still use the measured gain to figure final tuning of the subs
 
did you ever figure out a solution? I have 2 American bass xr12D2... maybe I got lucky? idk.. I am also using bassBox Pro to design my enclosures.. plus I also have a Ford Flex so I have more room to work with than you.. but I ended up making a 2.5 cf kerf port enclosure.. then I bought a second xr12d2 and instead of making a new box, I flipped that ***** upside down and mounted it onto of the enclosure, flipped the phase around and that **** BANGSSSSS so hard and hits super low (28Hz enclosure btw). using a VFL amp also with a Big 4 wire upgrade



 

Love this sub, hate AB's site, short on info for sure. American Bass XR-10D2 box recomend:​

1691877791285.png

If you want to tune a 2.75 Cu Ft box (for two of these 10's) I'm guesing about the woofer displacement, the Vb is around 2.57Cu. Ft. Driver Fs is 35Hz so a couple of options. A 6" diameter port, 16" long will give you a tuning frequency of 38Hz, 20" long will give you a tuning frequency of 35Hz, a length of 24.5" will give you a tuning frequency of 32Hz, not thinking I would go any lower than that.
 
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