Deadening/rattling issue

[SlugButter]

I’ve deadened my doors and now I have a new issue with the lock. It rattles like hell now. Anything I’ve tried so far just causes the lock to not operate correctly. It’s super irritating unless I ride with my arm on the lock all the time. It seems to resonate at the exact frequency that a lot of rock kick drum lands on as well. There are some holes where the stock speaker grill went that I had to temporarily tape over due to air whistling out of them. If I remove the tape, the rattle in the lock almost stops. Put the tape back on and it starts up again. Other than maybe doing speaker pods, I’m not sure how to stop this.

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[SlugButter]

Also, anywhere to find new hydraulic arms that are better than the OEM ones? The deadener on the back hatch is just a tad too heavy and I need to put a little more still. I removed some deadener to make it just light enough to still work, but I’d like to put it back in.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I’m not sure how to stop this.

On my truck I used that weatherstrip you find at Home Depot. I glued it between the bar and door skin. It puts a bit of pressure on the bar, but not enough to impede it's opertation. It has been at least 8 months on there with no issue.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Felt tape?

 

[SlugButter]

If I add enough weight to it with little rubber bands, that helped. If I position the little rubber band just right so that when I lock it, the rubber band seals up that little gap, it stops, at least while locked.

 

[YourNameHere 10+ year member]

I have chased door rattles for years, only solution I ever found was to increase HPF on my midbass......

 

[SlugButter]

I have chased door rattles for years, only solution I ever found was to increase HPF on my midbass......

Dammit. I’m already at 95 hz. If I run at at the 70 I want, it’s really bad. Do pods help with this? Or is this just a resonance that spreads through the vehicle regardless?

 

[Kickstand Premium Member]

Also, anywhere to find new hydraulic arms that are better than the OEM ones? The deadener on the back hatch is just a tad too heavy and I need to put a little more still. I removed some deadener to make it just light enough to still work, but I’d like to put it back in.
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I just bought some hood ones for a project car from rock auto and they were really strong and really cheap
It might just be that the ones you have are worn over time and a new set will fix the problem
I don't think you need to search hi and low for stronger ones

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

If I add enough weight to it with little rubber bands, that helped. If I position the little rubber band just right so that when I lock it, the rubber band seals up that little gap, it stops, at least while locked.

Zip tie? You could stabilize the things with zip ties.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

If I add enough weight to it with little rubber bands, that helped. If I position the little rubber band just right so that when I lock it, the rubber band seals up that little gap, it stops, at least while locked.

How about a section of shrink tubing to snug the button?

 

[Firewalker]

As pop said some Tesa Tape would work. I used that on the door clips that are built into the door panel and it works quite well. Even some professionals use it that way with good results.

 

[SlugButter]

As pop said some Tesa Tape would work. I used that on the door clips that are built into the door panel and it works quite well. Even some professionals use it that way with good results.

Ahh. So the entire mechanism itself might be rattling, not just the knob. If I slide a little rubber band down on it and make the knob tight, that works, but then the door tries to lock it impedes it from lowering. I think I’m going to try some felt tape right on the inside of the little circle that the little arm travels through so it softens the rattling side to side. I’m hoping it’s rattling in the little hard plastic grommet and not all the way down in the mechanism itself. It’s hard to tell by ear with the door panel on.