Need Advice Please...Noob here but I have done lots of reading I'm trying...

noobsaibot
Premium Member

CarAudio.com Newbie
I previously had a Kicker CXA-1200.1 pushing 1 12" Solo Baric L7 in its own ported box that it came from the actual Kicker company with the stitching on top. Wifey felt like we needed a step up in bass. It was supposed to be just a nice little system for her to hear music on while she was working (Caregiver) but now she basically wants some good hitting bass (2010 Toyota Camry). Its been about 10 years since I was into car audio but when I was into it, I have always bought Solo Baric speakers because it has sentimental value and memories of my brothers when we were young growing up. SO, I have now returned the single Solo Baric and upgraded to a dual enclosure ported box Solo Baric L7's with a Kicker CXA 1800.1 amp. Now for the specs.. and my noob question.
Kicker CXA 1800.1 is 1800 watts rms.
Solo Basic Dual Enclosure ported box L7's is 1500 watts rms.
The setup I had before that I spoke at the beginning of my thread was installed by a stereo shop when my wife got her stimmy check. They used 4 AWG wire for the amp install. SO, my question is rather then taking it again to the stereo shop and have them hook my new gear up, I was thinking since obviously since the car is already wired up, how do I go about just installing the AMP myself and tuning it right (Gains, Bass Boost etc.) and making those Solo Barics kick like a mule. Does it matter which cable I connect first to amp terminals(power or ground)? I tried to explain my setup the best I could to get your guys advice and I really appreciate you for taking the time and reading
 
IMO, you’d probably want to upgrade to 1/0 gauge wire. 4 gauge may be choking that amp.
Yea, I read the owners manual that I is recommended to use 1/0 gauge, so should I try and run the wire my self? But the wire and try to mimick what the stereo shop did like follow that same route they used for power and also for the ground right?
 
That’s what I would do. I set the gain by ear but some use an o scope. Don’t use the bass boost and if you have a subsonic filter, set it around where the box is tuned, if you know what that is.
 
Just make sure that disconnecting the battery is the first thing you do and reconnecting it is the last thing you do.
(You said noob so just in case)
That new amp is going to need a bigger fuse
 
I am not familiar with what a subsonic filter is.

I would suggest that you go have it installed. You sound pretty green, which is fine, but I would hate to hear that you did something wrong and fried the amp or something. Plus, you would have to order all the wire, new fuse, get a 1/0 crimper, and learn to to properly tune it. It might be worth it to know that it was all hooked up right and tuned by a professional. Just my two cents.
 
I would suggest that you go have it installed. You sound pretty green, which is fine, but I would hate to hear that you did something wrong and fried the amp or something. Plus, you would have to order all the wire, new fuse, get a 1/0 crimper, and learn to to properly tune it. It might be worth it to know that it was all hooked up right and tuned by a professional. Just my two cents.
Yea, I am a rookie in the car audio game, but I figured since the car was already wired from a previous setup, I could just install the amp and sub woofers my self and avoid something costly that at the end of the day, I could have done myself. But it may not be as easy as it sounds, and I have been investing in some O.K. gear and want it hooked up right
 
Yea, I am a rookie in the car audio game, but I figured since the car was already wired from a previous setup, I could just install the amp and sub woofers my self and avoid something costly that at the end of the day, I could have done myself. But it may not be as easy as it sounds, and I have been investing in some O.K. gear and want it hooked up right

It's wired, but it's really not wired. You would have to purchase and run all new 1/0 wire. Plus, crimping 1/0 wire takes a special tool. Then, you need to buy and install the new fuse properly. And, finally you want to have it tuned to get the most out of your setup. For simple peace of mind, I would let a professional do it.
 
It's wired, but it's really not wired. You would have to purchase and run all new 1/0 wire. Plus, crimping 1/0 wire takes a special tool. Then, you need to buy and install the new fuse properly. And, finally you want to have it tuned to get the most out of your setup. For simple peace of mind, I would let a professional do it.
Bench vise with a smaller impact socket will do if your in a pinch because you have put your crimper in a box somewhere and have ripped the garage and better part of the basement apart looking for it and your going to explode from frustration.
If your ever in that particular situation.
Of course as soon as you no longer need to use it... you find it.

To the OP: If your not comfortable doing it then I would get it done by a pro.
If you do end up doing it yourself then just take your time, check and recheck everything and if your unsure of something then just ask
 
Bench vise with a smaller impact socket will do if your in a pinch because you have put your crimper in a box somewhere and have ripped the garage and better part of the basement apart looking for it and your going to explode from frustration.
If your ever in that particular situation.
Of course as soon as you no longer need to use it... you find it.

To the OP: If your not comfortable doing it then I would get it done by a pro.
If you do end up doing it yourself then just take your time, check and recheck everything and if your unsure of something then just ask

I have a hammer crimper for 1/0. The OP just doesn't seem very comfortable doing it. Plus, even if he does it right, he doesn't have any experience tuning it to get the most out of it. It would be best if he could watch somebody and learn before he tries it himself.
 
He’s talking about replacing his subs and mono amp. It’s very easy to hook that up. Running new wire isn’t hard either, just follow where the shop went with 4 gauge. You could run into a fitment issue but I’m assuming you’re smart enough to figure out a solution. Replacing a fuse is about the easiest thing you can do in car audio. I’ve never once used a 1/0 crimper and have never had an issue.

Watch videos online before doing it and set out enough time to get it done. Go slow and double check your work.
 
It's wired, but it's really not wired. You would have to purchase and run all new 1/0 wire. Plus, crimping 1/0 wire takes a special tool. Then, you need to buy and install the new fuse properly. And, finally you want to have it tuned to het the most out of your setup. For simple peace of mind, I would let a professional do it.
Sounds fair enough
He’s talking about replacing his subs and mono amp. It’s very easy to hook that up. Running new wire isn’t hard either, just follow where the shop went with 4 gauge. You could run into a fitment issue but I’m assuming you’re smart enough to figure out a solution. Replacing a fuse is about the easiest thing you can do in car audio. I’ve never once used a 1/0 crimper and have never had an issue.

Watch videos online before doing it and set out enough time to get it done. Go slow and double check your work.
Just came from the stereo shop that had previously wired up my car with the system I had before. I asked "How much do you guys charge for running 0/1 gauge wire from battery back to my amp?" The gentleman proceeds to tell me "Your looking at $205". The shop also sells 0 gauge wire for $7.00 a foot. So my plan is to see if my new CXA 1800 will be able to hang with the current wiring I have.
 
7 bucks a foot,lol. I bought 30 feet of 1/0 Welding Wire that many use for power wire in Car Audio cost me 65 dollars shipped on ebay now it is up to 68 bucks shipped but still. Common brand that many people use as well.
 
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