Wiring 0 gauge and 4 gauge, two amps ??

thats intense

I am starting to think, maybe I will need to add a battery down the road. The new Jeep has the 2.0 turbo engine and comes with a second battery. I have not researched anything about it yet. But I really do not want my electrical system to suffer.

my 07 wrangler had a brand new battery and alternator with big three and still corroded around the starter wire. And the lights still dimmed.

Alt is #1 for energy production.
 
Alt is #1 for energy production.

so, adding a better alternator will help most?

I should have enough wire left over to do big 3 again on this one.

once I get things all lined up and installed, I will hit you up for the sub box design. I think we can get a lower profile enclosure back there with enough volume to allow the Q to perform. Just a matter of measurements and using some of the space around that wheel well.
 
so, adding a better alternator will help most?

I should have enough wire left over to do big 3 again on this one.

once I get things all lined up and installed, I will hit you up for the sub box design. I think we can get a lower profile enclosure back there with enough volume to allow the Q to perform. Just a matter of measurements and using some of the space around that wheel well.
You do not need a bigger alternator unless you are pushing crazy power. The standard JL run I belive a 210 amp alternator, and the upgraded is a 240 amp. Is your jeep a 2021? Previous years had electrical issues stemming from that shifty tiny second battery, the 2021 got an overhaul and a bigger second battery.
 
You do not need a bigger alternator unless you are pushing crazy power. The standard JL run I belive a 210 amp alternator, and the upgraded is a 240 amp. Is your jeep a 2021? Previous years had electrical issues stemming from that shifty tiny second battery, the 2021 got an overhaul and a bigger second battery.

2021 Unlimited Rubicon
 
I have no idea what the factory alt is, but he's running a 3k sub amp.
I don't know a ton about amp output vs watts pushed real world, but most cars are 130-150 amp alts, and people run 1k watts on them all the time no issues. This is either a 210 or a 240, most people consider 240 a high output alternator, and I've seen many people upgrade to a 240 for audio.

Remember these vehicles are built to run lighting, wenches, air compressors, stoves etc. The electrical is pretty beefy.
 
I don't know a ton about amp output vs watts pushed real world, but most cars are 130-150 amp alts, and people run 1k watts on them all the time no issues. This is either a 210 or a 240, most people consider 240 a high output alternator, and I've seen many people upgrade to a 240 for audio.

Remember these vehicles are built to run lighting, wenches, air compressors, stoves etc. The electrical is pretty beefy.

I understand. One thing to consider is that a vehicle's alt is made to power the vehicle. So usually whatever alt is on the vehicle, most of that alt power is for the vehicle systems. So if you want full functionality out of your vehicle's electronics, like running lights and ac and heater or whatever, you need to have enough amperage for the vehicle's factory electronics plus the extra audio equipment.
 
I understand. One thing to consider is that a vehicle's alt is made to power the vehicle. So usually whatever alt is on the vehicle, most of that alt power is for the vehicle systems. So if you want full functionality out of your vehicle's electronics, like running lights and ac and heater or whatever, you need to have enough amperage for the vehicle's factory electronics plus the extra audio equipment.
While is is true, they also include 4 "aux switches", at I believe 40 amps each? That just dead end throughout the vehicle for whatever accessories you want to power.
 
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