Aftermarket sub issue?

WillBlumenthal

CarAudio.com Newbie
So I recently bought a new truck(2014 Chevy Silverado), and I wanted to transfer the subs I had in my previous truck to the new one. Two Skar 10’s and a 1200w Skar monoblock. I bought an under-seat box and I hooked it all up the factory head unit, so I used a line output converter of course. The truck came factory with Bose audio and a sub in the center console(which I believe might be the issue?) Once everything was tucked away and I tried to test it, nothing happened. Upon closer inspection the subs were being powered, since they were moving, but it was very weak. Everything is wired correctly, essentially the same it was in the other truck. Any ideas?
 
So I would have to wire the loc before the factory sub?
I’m not too familiar with line output converters honestly, as I’ve never used one. My first upgrade in any vehicle is always the head unit first. Can the loc be hooked up to the factory subwoofer connections only? Hooking it up with the door speakers connections is almost assuredly the problem.
 
I’m not too familiar with line output converters honestly, as I’ve never used one. My first upgrade in any vehicle is always the head unit first. Can the loc be hooked up to the factory subwoofer connections only? Hooking it up with the door speakers connections is almost assuredly the problem.
I know I’ve read somewhere that it can be hooked up to/before the factory sub location, but I was just hoping to avoid that headache honestly.
 
These loc installs are often a problem, which is why I’ve always avoided using them. The factory head unit will not let any bass go to the door speakers to avoid damage to the speakers, and rattling in the door panels. Without buying another device to reconstruct the bass signal, there is no way to run it off the door speaker locations. You probably don’t want to buy a whole new head unit I’m guessing.
 
These loc installs are often a problem, which is why I’ve always avoided using them. The factory head unit will not let any bass go to the door speakers to avoid damage to the speakers, and rattling in the door panels. Without buying another device to reconstruct the bass signal, there is no way to run it off the door speaker locations. You probably don’t want to buy a whole new head unit I’m guessing.
I’m not against buying a new one but I’d prefer to keep factory. It looks nice and it has all the vehicle controls on it. I didn’t mind doing it on an old unit but this one’s a little more advanced
 
Yeah, it’s more advanced, with crossovers built into the head unit, etc. its a nicer factory system than a lot of others, but it makes it hard to upgrade it 1 piece at a time. You will have to run the loc off of the subwoofer location or buy a different head unit.
 
Yeah, it’s more advanced, with crossovers built into the head unit, etc. its a nicer factory system than a lot of others, but it makes it hard to upgrade it 1 piece at a time. You will have to run the loc off of the subwoofer location or buy a different head unit.
I’ll try wiring to the factory sub and if that doesn’t work I’ll just go ahead and get a new head unit. I’ll post an update once I do it. Thanks for all the help
 
Sigh... Yes it can be time consuming but with the way these new cars are these days with so much built into the head units. They have them locked down to the point on some where you can't even run the stupid car without them. And once they are setup they sound better then some LOC. I have a Pioneer DEH-80PRS and I am going to a DSP on it. I know it will take me some time to tune it correctly but it the long run it will be worth it.

A DSP is a Digital Sound Processor. You can wire it into the stock system. A Good Cheap one is the Dayton below.


Ask @Jeffdachef about it.
 
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WillBlumenthal

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