2018 Toyota Tacoma build

I also think I've settled on this guy for the bass upgrade. The Skar M5001D is rated 380w @ 2ohm (14.4v) so I figure ill get around 320 or so at 12.5V minus a little bit for inefficiencies. Later when I upgrade the battery and alternator it should get close to 14V but we shall see. I might only upgrade to a high end AGM cell and leave it at that. I think for an SQ style system this should be the ticket. I'll save building a custom sub box for later down the road when I get that itch again.

 
Made some progress this weekend on the Taco. Built my amp rack, sound treated the back wall, and ran the 9 wire cable ill be using to connect the factory HU to the DM-608.

Amp rack build pics. Pre paint and Finished. I took a page out of Dean from 5 Star Audio book for the amp rack. I really like how he wires up everything so I took the time to mimic for this project. I really like the outcome.
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Amp rack fit testing and Noico 80mil sound deadening on the rear wall.
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Finally, the 9 wire cable run from the HU to the DM-608. I took out the under seat rear storage box and ran the cable up the the passenger side of the center console. I had to Dremel a notch out so that the storage box would sit flush again. I used 3 grommet's from a Harbor Freight kit to make sure the jacket is protected. It worked out pretty nice in the end.
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Now its a waiting game for the JL Sub enclosure to come in. Hopefully this weekend I can get everything hooked up and start the tuning.
 
I plan to go active at some point so I still need the DSP, especially if I want to run 3-ways up front + a sub. The head unit(s) I liked were all ~750-1k anyway so I chose to spend the money on amps, speakers, and a DSP now so I can really learn how to tune properly before getting in to active land. The end goal for this project is to learn how to properly tune the system and I also want to do some custom fab work and build my own custom sub box. Just like every audiophile system, it will never end 🙃
Man I have the same truck in a 2020 model and went with the JLAudio Fix 86 coming out of the front, Memphis audio XIV components front and rear powered by a 6 channel JL Audio. My sub is a JL Audio 10W7 in an over the seat configuration and this thing hits good. Sub is powered by a DD Audio DM1500. These trucks are horrible for anything behind the seats as far as any significant air space. But the clarity from the doors/tweeter pods is better than any system I've ever owned. You are correct it never ends lol. Best of luck !!
 
Man I have the same truck in a 2020 model and went with the JLAudio Fix 86 coming out of the front, Memphis audio XIV components front and rear powered by a 6 channel JL Audio. My sub is a JL Audio 10W7 in an over the seat configuration and this thing hits good. Sub is powered by a DD Audio DM1500. These trucks are horrible for anything behind the seats as far as any significant air space. But the clarity from the doors/tweeter pods is better than any system I've ever owned. You are correct it never ends lol. Best of luck !!
Yeah the behind the seat area is terrible but I'm really after SQ and like you said there are tons of options for the doors as far as components go. The factory tweeter/mid location is another option but I don't like bouncing off the windshield but maybe it would work at some point. The Kicker I have in there now actually does its job and I'm hoping the JL with more power will fill in nicely. Where did you mount your equipment and whats "over the seat" configuration? Are you saying you have a box on your seat or deleted the seat to put a box in? Would actually like to see pics of your setup.
 
Yeah the behind the seat area is terrible but I'm really after SQ and like you said there are tons of options for the doors as far as components go. The factory tweeter/mid location is another option but I don't like bouncing off the windshield but maybe it would work at some point. The Kicker I have in there now actually does its job and I'm hoping the JL with more power will fill in nicely. Where did you mount your equipment and whats "over the seat" configuration? Are you saying you have a box on your seat or deleted the seat to put a box in? Would actually like to see pics of your setup.
6.5's are in the doors, tweeters aren't in that factory position I put those in that top triangular corner door piece(the black abs plastic). The DSP is behind the factory unit and the crossovers are in the door panels. Amps behind the rear seats and this is the sub enclosure. I have all the appropriate wiring upgrades etc, but I need the new alt and battery(s). I am taking out the JL Audio W7 and putting in another sub and significant amount of power to go with it.
 

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More progress made. Amp rack is mounted. Just need to run speaker cable off the 8 position terminal block up to the existing cables under the driver seat, connect the speaker level inputs and run power and ground for the DM-608. Also waiting on some short RCA cables from KnuConceptz. I went with the Karma V3 for this project. Don't need the super high end stuff for max 3ft run and these look puuurty anyway.

I decided to get everything tuned up with the existing Kicker C67's in the doors and wait on installing the component set. I want to tune this set up and see how much of a difference there is. With the LC7i and the Pioneer amp, these already sound great and I'm certain the DSP will pull it all together. I may end up deleting the passive x-overs and keeping the pioneer in to run the tweeters off 2 of the channels, but I'm going to play around with each configuration and see how they turn out.

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Well its all installed. Spent from 4pm to past midnight yesterday finishing up everything and replacing the CCA speaker wire I had run to all the doors for the initial project with some OFC 14 gauge Kord cable from KnuKonceptz.

The battery terminal is a KnuKoncepz Bassik Positive Battery terminal. With the extra battery post. I'm really happy with this product, especially how the stock Tacoma terminal post fits nicely. Plenty of room to attach ring terminals for amp wire.

The fuse block came with my Skar 4ga amp kit and I made a mount out of ABS and used existing holes in the engine compartment. I got this idea from watching Fernando from 5Star Car audio.

The distribution blocks are also KnuKonceptz 2 Way 1/0 to 4.

I'm also replacing the RCA on the sub amp (middle) with a 3ft KnuKonceptz Karma V3 like the other two. I thought I would have enough length with 1.5ft but that clearly didn't work out.

I'm still waiting on my JL Audio StealthBox with the 10TW3 to come in, but for now the old Kicker 10" will have to do.

The worst part so far is that after I got it done last night I was too tired to mess with tuning the DSP and setting the gains on the amps, so I had to drive to work today with the system sounding like dawg skat. But even with it not tuned properly, it still sounds decent enough. I used the auto EQ and summed the channels. The real fixing will come over the next few days.

I feel like despite the entry level Kicker drivers I have that I can get this system to sound relatively decent. I mean I hope so, cuz I got some CC bill to pay off now 🙃

Next plans:
  • Build a beauty panel incorporated in to the rear driver side panel with a plexi glass window and some black light LED's
  • Tune the system with the 4 coaxials initially then modify the door panel to upgrade the front doors with the Kicker KS components. I'm still debating where to put the tweeters. they may go in the kick panels because I dont want to run anymore damn wire through the tiny door boots Toyota put in this truck.
  • Buy a new battery, This one sux, its a group 24 5XX cranking AMP battery. I'm planning on a yellow top Optima group 34 or maybe something by XS. Either way, the stock one gotta go.
  • In another year or so decide on a 3 way setup and install. By then I should have an idea where I'm putting the tweeters and mid. Who knows, maybe I will custom fab some kick panels for the tweeter and mid.

Anyone who notices the piggy back power set up I have for the DSP with its inline fuse holder, I know I know. I plan on installing a small automotive fuse block in the bottom left corner of the amp rack once I build the beauty panel and figure out the LED light and relay switch situation. But its all working fine for now.
 

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Phase One nearly finalized. DM-608 is tuned using the Auto EQ suggestions from Audio Control. HU is level matched up to the DSP and for shits and giggles I played around with some time delay. System sounds good the JL bumps well but the last two things I need to do for this phase is to set my gains and ultimately tune the system with my Dayton Audio EMM-6 mic I just picked up and True RTA or REW software. I also have a Dayton Audio iMM-6 mic so I will try that first. I picked up the EMM-6 after I bought the iMM-6 and I need to procure an XLR cable and a Focusrite Scarlett Solo or iTrack Solo, still deciding. For now Ill just use the iMM-6 hooked to my iPhone and the Mobile Tools RTA from Audio Control.

I've noticed a lot of muddiness during songs with lots of low end midbass, probably in the 200-500Hz range so hopefully using the mic will help me figure out where to drop the frequencies to my liking in the DSP. It may also be the acoustics in the vehicle but alas, on with the journey we go.

Other than the endless tuning, I'm going to be drawing up some designs to utilize the stock panel to cover the amp rack. Will definitely need a ton of modification, maybe some body work, a plexi window and some LED lighting for that sex appeal no one will ever see :-D. I plan on utilizing this location for future builds so a lot of thought will be put in to making sure than any configuration I come up with there can be accessed and admired.
 

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First Snaffu. The Skar SK-M5001D amp half quit sometime between Saturday and today. I did all the tests though, 13.7v DC at the power terminals. Verified Signal coming from the mono channels of my DSP. Verified my sub is presenting the expected load (eliminating the sub as the problem). Verified that the amp was not in protect mode. End result is that the amp turns on but there is no AC voltage coming off the speaker terminals no matter where the gain is set.

I'm not counting Skar out yet though because the return process was quick and simple. I already got it approved and had a response to a question within 5 minutes basically at 5:30pm when they close. Now I just have to remove the amp and send it back for an exchange. I'm going to give this one another go and if it doesn't give me at least a few months then I wont bother with Skar again.

This truck will have multiple systems in it anyway so losing $120 on this one amp doesn't really bother me. Its just a shame it didn't last a month.

Anyway, I cant wait to hear all the told ya so's about Skar. 🙃
 
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Seth F.

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