Need recommendations for SQ install

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mocrawlin

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I have a 2017 Hyundai Sonata that has 150 amp alternator factory. I would like to add a 10 inch sub in the back more geared towards sound quality than flat out pounding. As this car has really good sounding factory stereo and speakers.

so, does anyone know of anything I can buy to integrate a sub amp to the factory system? This car doesn’t have the factor sub, or the fancy touchscreen head unit.

Also, what amp does everyone recommend for sound quality and that will work best with my stock alternator power rating? I can update the battery under the hood to AGM if needed and I would run O gauge wire thruout and perform the big 3. And Iplan to build the box myself as I have done all of mine in the past. So, if there is a sub recommended and someone has some box plans let me know. Thanks.
 
I have a 2017 Hyundai Sonata that has 150 amp alternator factory. I would like to add a 10 inch sub in the back more geared towards sound quality than flat out pounding. As this car has really good sounding factory stereo and speakers.

so, does anyone know of anything I can buy to integrate a sub amp to the factory system? This car doesn’t have the factor sub, or the fancy touchscreen head unit.

Also, what amp does everyone recommend for sound quality and that will work best with my stock alternator power rating? I can update the battery under the hood to AGM if needed and I would run O gauge wire thruout and perform the big 3. And Iplan to build the box myself as I have done all of mine in the past. So, if there is a sub recommended and someone has some box plans let me know. Thanks.

In terms of integrating it with the factory system I'd recommend getting an active line-out converter like from Audiocontrol. The passives are cheap but you'll lose a lot of bass because the car will send less bass as the volume gets louder to spare the cheaper stock speakers. The LC2-i for example helps to restore some of the bass that you lost at only a modest quality loss compared to an after market head unit's RCA ouputs.

If you run an AGM I think 1500w rms and under should be your range if you don't want to swap anything else. In terms of a subwoofer there's a lot of options, what type of enclosure and dimensions are you going with for starters?
 
Well, box size and tuning is one of the things I am not sure about. I used to always run big 12’s and 15’s and ground pound.
But this will be for sound quality. I drive 100 plus miles a day to work, so I don’t want max SPL, just good sounding bass. And I don’t want to use up the whole trunk. LoL
 
Well, box size and tuning is one of the things I am not sure about. I used to always run big 12’s and 15’s and ground pound.
But this will be for sound quality. I drive 100 plus miles a day to work, so I don’t want max SPL, just good sounding bass. And I don’t want to use up the whole trunk. LoL
A good start would be determining your maximum size that's acceptable to you and whether you want a sealed vs non-sealed box. The size of the woofer may not even be best at 10 depending on your space since larger woofers can be quite responsive too if put in the right enclosure. Having a frequency range desired would also be a good start. You said the car already has high quality speakers, about at what point do you start losing punch as you slide down the bass scale in your stock configuration? Also keeping in mind that higher volumes the bass production will be further reduced from a stock head unit.
 
A good start would be determining your maximum size that's acceptable to you and whether you want a sealed vs non-sealed box. The size of the woofer may not even be best at 10 depending on your space since larger woofers can be quite responsive too if put in the right enclosure. Having a frequency range desired would also be a good start. You said the car already has high quality speakers, about at what point do you start losing punch as you slide down the bass scale in your stock configuration? Also keeping in mind that higher volumes the bass production will be further reduced from a stock head unit.

I will have to get some tones and see wherethe stock stuff is good to. As for size, 1.5 cubes is probably bigger than I would like to use up, but I could. Anything from there down for box size.
 
I will have to get some tones and see wherethe stock stuff is good to. As for size, 1.5 cubes is probably bigger than I would like to use up, but I could. Anything from there down for box size.
Is the height conducive to a bigger sub? If you're dead set on 10 that's fine too, but more cone area all other things being equal is a good thing.
 
Is the height conducive to a bigger sub? If you're dead set on 10 that's fine too, but more cone area all other things being equal is a good thing.

mph yeah, I think a 12 would fit easily. I can get some measurements tomorrow. The rear deck also has the hole where the factory sub would normally go, so, I could utilize that for a port maybe? Don’t want to have to drive around with the seats down.
 
mph yeah, I think a 12 would fit easily. I can get some measurements tomorrow. The rear deck also has the hole where the factory sub would normally go, so, I could utilize that for a port maybe? Don’t want to have to drive around with the seats down.

The mesh over the subwoofer location probably won't handle the forces of the port very well and the port needs to be unobstructed for best operation. I'd just vent to where you'd normally put groceries or whatever. If there's something in the way you'll just miss out on some performance for one drive so no big deal. I'll be around when you get those measurements and figure out a good range to trust to your current stock speakers.
 
The mesh over the subwoofer location probably won't handle the forces of the port very well and the port needs to be unobstructed for best operation. I'd just vent to where you'd normally put groceries or whatever. If there's something in the way you'll just miss out on some performance for one drive so no big deal. I'll be around when you get those measurements and figure out a good range to trust to your current stock speakers.

ok, thank you. Will see if I can get that figured out.
 
fwiw, heres my setup in my Accord sedan. box is 1.31 cubes. subs a 12" RE SE. i took out the rear dash speakers to let the bass vent into the cabin. i dont keep the armrest/port thing open. dont need to. the box is held in place by 4 L brackets. and i can still get to the spare tire

21655


21656
 


looking at the Mojo 8. Also, on the box, I don’t know what it’s called, but a buddy of mine had one that had an Orion 8 in it, you couldn’t see the sub. The box was just big enough inside to fit the 8 in it. Very back of box was sealed. And then the front part was ported/vented. Probably less than 2 feet long, and 10x10 wide and high.
 


looking at the Mojo 8. Also, on the box, I don’t know what it’s called, but a buddy of mine had one that had an Orion 8 in it, you couldn’t see the sub. The box was just big enough inside to fit the 8 in it. Very back of box was sealed. And then the front part was ported/vented. Probably less than 2 feet long, and 10x10 wide and high.

and I could get a simple 1000w RMS amp.
 
and I could get a simple 1000w RMS amp.
Something that I've done when sizing my trunk for a sub is first measure, then find a cardboard box that's too big for it and bend the sides until it fits, then measure the box at that bend. It's pretty ghetto, but it was useful in showing that my rear speakers are angled so the lowest spot is the corner of their magnet.
 
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