Use this headunit or upgrade it?, considering this setup...

You could do pwx’s instead of the un’s but overall your be trading mid bass potential for loud and clear. Not sure where you’re seeing all the feedback on sa12’s that they don’t do 60-80hz well. Enclosure will ensure optimal frequency response

Even after you find the right driver, the enclosure/sound treatment and power is going to be king for midbass response

also, what’s your Vehicle? Your going a good amount of current.

SA-12 will be ported in fairly large box ~1.75 cuft and tuned to 31 Hz. Most people who had similar boxes said it gets muddy above 55Hz, but I agree with you...just got to build it and test for myself. But just to be safe I'll just get some mids that get low. What do you think about the Polk MM 6502?

It's an '05 Altima and yeah 2 amps running somewhere around 1700a total. I talked to 2 audio junkies, forum vets and they both said just just 0/1 wire, do Big 3, upgrade grounds to chassis etc...basically just beef up electrical wiring all around and no need for additional battery, upgrade battery, HO alternator, caps...none of that as long as the stereo wont be playing long with the engine not running. That was a shock. Most everyone I've talked too said either a battery or alternator was necessary...
 
I mean I guess try but to say that 1700watts rms isn’t going to stress the electrical on that sedan especially half bridge amps is a a stretch.

Main problem: building a front stage to keep up with a SA-12 on 1200rms
Bottleneck: low end of midbass

So after considering much input, final answer is most nearly: bridging the 4ch amp to 425rms @4ohm ×2 and running these active

Adding this small 2ch https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...2-channel-full-range-class-a-b-amplifier.html

To run these

Anyone's thoughts/comments on this setup above is much appreciated...
 
Which means your 2’channel will be 2 x 35 and your bridged four channel eill be 200 x 2 (and that’s if it’s the first gen 900.4. The new ones don’t put out rated. It’s first gen if is there’s a 40 and 30
Fuse on the outside of the amp.

As all these system recommendation posts lead to....enclosure and power are going to dictate realized midbass output so long as you pick the right driver. Look at a pwx6 mid and a ct2 tweeter. Both 4 ohm and you could send that bridged power at four ohms to the mids and get 65x2 out of that 2 channel. Focus on your door treatment and you may be able to just use the ppi one speaker per channel.

you Indicated your goal was output that could keep up with your sa so running 8 ohm drivers takes you the other direction from output.
 
Main problem: building a front stage to keep up with a SA-12 on 1200rms
Bottleneck: low end of midbass

So after considering much input, final answer is most nearly: bridging the 4ch amp to 425rms @4ohm ×2 and running these active

Adding this small 2ch https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...2-channel-full-range-class-a-b-amplifier.html

To run these

Anyone's thoughts/comments on this setup above is much appreciated...
you said you like it to keep up with your sundown. anything 90 db sensitivity and under will be completely drowned out. You've been looking at speakers that dont pair well with spl subs like the sundown aka WEAK output and that **** is 8 ohms at 88 db sensitivity as well yikes. Thats about as loud as a 4 inch speaker at best.
 
Which means your 2’channel will be 2 x 35 and your bridged four channel eill be 200 x 2 (and that’s if it’s the first gen 900.4. The new ones don’t put out rated. It’s first gen if is there’s a 40 and 30
Fuse on the outside of the amp.

As all these system recommendation posts lead to enclosure and power are going to dictate realized midbass output so long as you pick the right driver. Look at a pwx6 mid and a ct2 tweeter. Both 4 ohm and you could send that bridged power at four ohms to the mids and get 65x2 out of that 2 channel. Focus on your door treatment and you may be able to just use the ppi one speaker per channel.

you Indicated your goal was output that could keep up with your sa so running 8 ohm drivers takes you the other direction from output.

What you're saying makes a lot of sense. The ppi has a 40 and 35 on the outside. I bought it about 2 years ago so I believe it is Gen 1.

I will definitely treat the doors to the max.

Ok thanks. So after all, would bridging to 425 to the pwx6 and getting a 2ch for the tweets is that considerably more output than all 4 speakers on the 4ch or would that be just splitting hairs?
 
you said you like it to keep up with your sundown. anything 90 db sensitivity and under will be completely drowned out. You've been looking at speakers that dont pair well with spl subs like the sundown aka WEAK output and that **** is 8 ohms at 88 db sensitivity as well yikes. Thats about as loud as a 4 inch speaker at best.

Agreed.... couldnt find the sensitivity for the pwx6 on crescendo site.
 
What you're saying makes a lot of sense. The ppi has a 40 and 35 on the outside. I bought it about 2 years ago so I believe it is Gen 1.

I will definitely treat the doors to the max.

Ok thanks. So after all, would bridging to 425 to the pwx6 and getting a 2ch for the tweets is that considerably more output than all 4 speakers on the 4ch or would that be just splitting hairs?
Get a different amp than that zapco
 
To any who can help:
8" mids, Crescendo pwx8, fabricating something to make them fit in an '05 Altima front door, doable? If so any resource on how to or any other tips...
 
I mean I fit 4 10" PWXs in Ford Focus doors so anything is possible. lol


I'm going to disagree on the under 90db sensitivity 8ohm mids don't get loud though.

I would pass on those Zapco amps though. They aren't made like they used to be.
 
I mean I fit 4 10" PWXs in Ford Focus doors so anything is possible. lol


I'm going to disagree on the under 90db sensitivity 8ohm mids don't get loud though.

I would pass on those Zapco amps though. They aren't made like they used to be.

You got any fabricating resource or advice to help me get me started on the doors?
 
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