Have an amp, need to choose a suitable sub.

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

u should really watch amp dynos on utube man.. don't buy amp lower class than pioneer 8601 tested 800rms.. no boss planet audio audiotek.. a real 600rms is a huge diff from 180rms that says 2k on it

 

[moniker]

u should really watch amp dynos on utube man.. don't buy amp lower class than pioneer 8601 tested 800rms.. no boss planet audio audiotek.. a real 600rms is a huge diff from 180rms that says 2k on it

Right.. so after learning about this, i'm looking out for that.  Soundqubed was very insistent on the phone that their amps dyno as the literature reads.. obviously expect less if you can't give it 14v.. So i'll be working on getting full power to it, in time.  He outright said they do not do it like boss and others.  It wasn't a random representative on the phone reading from the catalog, whoever I was talking to was very hands-on in the company.  With that, he said the 850 amp will actually do 900rms @ 1ohm 14.4v, the 1250 put out 1260 @ 1ohm 14.4v.  I think he had first-hand experience with the testing.

What might I get out of these amps with 12.8-13v?  Are these guys completely full of ****?  If so we can get a class action lawsuit going right?

Hard to know who to trust.  Iv'e done my best to go over concerns of less-than-advertised amp power with company techs themselves, and if they are flat out lying to me... at this point that would absolutely incredible.

If you believe Soundqubed is full of it, can you tell me why in technical terms?  My goal is to understand all of this as best I can.  Since diving into this, i've realized I need to know a given amps fusing amperage to get an idea of the real output. 

Thanks.

 

[moniker]

RE boss amp, non-refundable said shop owner:

Went back to the shop with the amp, with the understanding I'd receive store credit; walked through the front door and right away the cashier said "put it back on the same card?".  Lol (laughing in my head, rather), "yes that'll be fine".  Apparently, the owner hasn't explained the return policy to all of his floor people.  

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

RE boss amp, non-refundable said shop owner:

Went back to the shop with the amp, with the understanding I'd receive store credit; walked through the front door and right away the cashier said "put it back on the same card?".  Lol (laughing in my head, rather), "yes that'll be fine".  Apparently, the owner hasn't explained the return policy to all of his floor people.  

That shop would be out of business fast if they followed the owners version of the return policy. I'm glad you were able to get your money back. 

 

[moniker]

Hello all,

I have returned here to A) vent a little bit  B) Showcase the absurdity in my car audio purchases thus far, especially the latest:  Soundqubed with a big (and surprising) fail.

1)  Bought a BOSS amp, discovered it only puts out less than half of stated RMS, returned after being enlighted by you all.  Thank you.

2)  Bought an enclosure that read ''1.5 cubes @ 34hz", told you guys here on the forum, y'all pointed out that it was likely only 0.7 cubes.  Still waiting for the shipment so I can resell it at a loss on Craigslist or Offer-up.  Burn.

3)  Received shipment from Soundqubed Today.  One 10'' 600 rms dvc sub.  One S1-850 mono amp.  Great sub reviews from people who ran the sub hard for months, maybe years for one particular review, & great amp dyno results on youtube.   Sweet, right?  Not so fast...

Sub packaging:  NO padding or protection on top (cone), and NO padding or protection on the bottom (magnet).  I pick up the package and wonder why it feels so saggy, look underneath and there is a gaping hole in the bottom of the box, the magnet is poking through, exposed to the great outdoors.  What - the - faaack.  Handed the box back to the FedEx guy and signed the refuse-to-accept form.

Amp packaging:  paper padding on only 2 of the 4 sides (D+ for effort?), no padding or protection on the bottom of the package.  Thin amp box (retail box with logos/imagery) to cardboard, that's it.  No visual signs of damage, but considering the entire bottom of the amp had no reasonable protection from the handling during shipping, internal electronics could have taken some beatings.. maybe leading to premature amp failure at some point?  I'd really like to know what you guys think about this one.  Would you return the amp too?  I'm pretty darned sure i'm going to.

This is from the 'returns' section on their website, LOL: 


SERVICE RETURNS:

• Create an RMA.
• ****Pack the items(s) well to prevent damage during shipping****.
• Ship item(s) to us at the address above at your expense.

There seems to be a number of satisfied Soundqubed customers out there, so I'll speculate that they had a new employee in the shipping department, a ding-dong at that.

Every damn time it's something.  Why me, oh why.  Thanks for listening

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

The amp is prob fine but I would have refused the sub too. Go with a Sundown E series instead, I have never liked the Soundqubed subs after the name change. 

 

[shredder2]

Every damn time it's something.  Why me, oh why. 

Where do you live... on top of K2 man?

 

[moniker]

Where do you live... on top of K2 man?

I don't get it.  So, maybe.  What's the implication?

 

[shredder2]

I don't get it.  So, maybe.  What's the implication?

Bad attempt at humor apparently by me... hard to ship to=damaged packaging.

I'm out

 

[moniker]

Wasn't necessarily a bad shot at humor.  I'm not very witty myself when it comes to understanding or making jokes.  @THATpurpleKUSH I'd like to get the sundown sub, but the extra 40 bucks is more than I can afford now with so much time off work (the wrong sub box ate that up).  I'm pretty stoked on car audio again, for the first time since high school.. not sure what happened there but I'm psyched about it.  Will likely make a significant upgrade next year; charging system and audio components; comprehensive.   

 

 

[moniker]

So I said before that I could handle building the enclosure (my framing experience and tree work skills led me to believe this, 0 finish carpentry experience!), but after a failed attempt today and wasting more material than I can afford, I could certainly benefit from some advice on the procedure.  I have my panels cut and am ready for assembly.  This is the design I'm working with, from Soundqubed: 

 

No compressor or brad-nailer.  Do have pilot-countersink bit and screws but that was kind of a pain.  I've heard that you can just hand nail, and would like to go this route but I want to get a second opinion, and recommendation on nail style/size (working with 3/4 mdf).  And if you recommend I stick with screws, what size?  Soundqubed said #8 screw @ 2 1/4'', but that seems huge, no?

My biggest headache is figuring out the stages of assembly.  Someone recommended separating the port assembly from the sides, and to begin with attaching the sides to the bottom.  If you look at the design that I'm using and are a NOOB like me, then that doesn't seem to straight-forward.

Would you consider (B) (B) and (C) the sides, even though one of the B's is the Sub face? And would that make (D) (E) and (F) the 'port assembly'?

I'm pretty unsure about how to fit the interior portions of this enclosure; which piece to install and when.

Attaching the sides to the bottom is pretty simple; just keep rotating the piece so that you are screwing or nailing into a piece that is standing vertically, on edge.  But how would you stabilize the interior portions while assembling, considering the box will be sitting on the back or sub face at that point, and the port pieces would be hanging horizontally in said configuration?  Totally stumped.

Thanks for any advice you guys may have to offer!

 

[shredder2]

I pre-mark (spacing/port width... etc) and pre-drill all parts where needed... then i'd assemble the side panel/assembled portwall 1st. I personally use #6 coarse thread drywall screws 1 5/8" long for single .75" materials. 

Just take your time and use plenty of woodglue. Bar clamps can come in handy when assembling.

 

[moniker]

I pre-mark (spacing/port width... etc) and pre-drill all parts where needed... then i'd assemble the side panel/assembled portwall 1st. I personally use #6 coarse thread drywall screws 1 5/8" long for single .75" materials. 

Just take your time and use plenty of woodglue. Bar clamps can come in handy when assembling.

Copy.  1 5/8 is what I was thinking, thanks for the confirmation.

 

[beak81champ]

I use 1 1/4” deck screws. Glue the **** out of it, and clamp it as much as you can. I put 1 screw about 2” from each corner, and that’s it. The glue will be stronger than the wood once it’s dry, so no need to screw the crap out of it.

 

[moniker]

Update.. First enclosure is going pretty alright.  I actually i'm pretty damn happy with it. 

Bought four clamps, as advised, used them all.  Used a few more screws than I think you vets would have.  Everything sits flush on the base; for the lid a couple things are off a heavy-32nd, so will sand a little before the top goes on.  It all seems to have a great seal, and I even hand sanded some bullnose on 3 of the port edges.  

All of this has been done with a circular saw and a corded drill, so with that, super happy with it.  Waiting to get the sub to verify cut out before attaching the face and top. 

Does anybody think I need a brace of sorts near the sub?

Thanks again!