Upgrades to my current little sub setup. RF R500X1D, 500w @2ohm

[schwol]

I would look closest at the FU and the Machete. If you can buy a step or two higher in the alphard brand do it! (Sports or super sports) 

big 3 at your power level is not necessary, you’re not (probably) going to crash and burn by not doing it. But you REALLY should especially to future proof it’s really easy. They will make you a kit at gpcaraudio.com with all the ring terminals pre crimped do all you have to do is bolt it on. I would do the 2/0 OFC just so you never have to worrry about it if you upgrade. My car is almost 100% 2/0 ofc and i would have done that regardless if I was running 300 watts or  30,000

Best batteries in the business are northstar. Would be worth your while to invest in one if you go any bigger. 

I appreciate the info. Looking at something like the Machete M12 v2 D1/D2 Sport 12", specs say it likes 950w RMS. Will my current amp sufficiently power this bad boy? 

Should I worry about going with a 1ohm or 4ohm DVC sub? Need to wire it for now at 2ohm, but also thinking about what makes most sense if I decide I want another sub. I guess you can always buy an amp for whatever I decide to go with.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

I would look at a 2k amp for that 950w sub. After box rise you will still have ample power. 

 

[schwol]

I would look at a 2k amp for that 950w sub. After box rise you will still have ample power. 

But then I'm getting into more serious upgrade territory for that kind of power. I don't want to get into swapping an alternator right now I don't think. I think I just want to get the absolute best I can get out of my ~650w @2ohm amp I have right now. No reason to dump it and I don't know that I've got the budget to get into upgrading my electrical system, although I don't know exactly what needs doing. Big3 and HO alternator?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

But then I'm getting into more serious upgrade territory for that kind of power. I don't want to get into swapping an alternator right now I don't think. I think I just want to get the absolute best I can get out of my ~650w @2ohm amp I have right now. No reason to dump it and I don't know that I've got the budget to get into upgrading my electrical system, although I don't know exactly what needs doing. Big3 and HO alternator?

dude, it doesnt matter. You can run a 100,000,000 watt amp to your car on a stock electrical just fine, you just will be using 500-1000 watts or whatever your stock electrical can handle.  Whatever you think your system can handle based on your guesses, throw that out the window. Get a voltage meter and actually look at voltage drop and get a clear idea of what your system can handle.   650 watts isn't much at all.   You can pop a group 31 battery back there and get a taramps hd 3000 and you'll be in business. You literally just set the gains with your voltage meter. Turn the gain up until your voltages hit around 13.0 volts during heavy drops, thats the most your alt can handle before it dips into battery reserve power this is setting gains via voltage drop, this literally allows you to run any giant amp on any system and keep safe doing so.  However with a giant amp, you have successfully future proofed yourself.

 

[shredder2]

Jeez Op... that sub is in a sealed enclosure.

All this talk bout' upgrading is all well and good, but if it was me I'd run what I have for now and re-enclose that Comp just for a taste. You're getting most likely horrible response from that poor thing. For the cost of a little materials and effort I would bet you'd be at least happier than you are currently.

On that amp, at that load... don't expect too much but if it was me I'd port it asap and see how different it sounds. Then save up to do it right eventually

Idk... maybe something like this?

Really... how hard does something like that look?

 

[MattinMO]

dude, it doesnt matter. You can run a 100,000,000 watt amp to your car on a stock electrical just fine, you just will be using 500-1000 watts or whatever your stock electrical can handle. 

only if its a taramps right!?!?!?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

only if its a taramps right!?!?!?

any amp. set gains via voltage drops and you can run any amp you want on any car.   How much of the amp's capabilities you'll be using is a different story.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

I'm a firmer believer in using a lower wattage sub and powering it to its full potential rather than getting something with far greater power handling and underpowering it. 

Subs with high power ratings will have a heavier moving mass because the larger voice coil weighs more, then you need a stronger cone, stiffer and more quantity of spiders, overall the suspension will be more stiff which will take more power to get moving to a certain excursion level, takes more motor force to retain good cone control etc etc. 

The power rating of your sub only needs to be half of what the amp is rated for at the nominal impedance you plan on running. 

 

[schwol]

Jeez Op... that sub is in a sealed enclosure.

All this talk bout' upgrading is all well and good, but if it was me I'd run what I have for now and re-enclose that Comp just for a taste. You're getting most likely horrible response from that poor thing. For the cost of a little materials and effort I would bet you'd be at least happier than you are currently.

On that amp, at that load... don't expect too much but if it was me I'd port it asap and see how different it sounds. Then save up to do it right eventually

Idk... maybe something like this?



Really... how hard does something like that look?

Tbh looks pretty easy. I've got basic tools and ample space to make a mess but no legit benches/saws and whatnot. Jigsaw, drills, clamps, bench, glue. I purchased a machete m12d1 and am looking forward to trying my hand with a build. 

 

[schwol]

I'm a firmer believer in using a lower wattage sub and powering it to its full potential rather than getting something with far greater power handling and underpowering it. 

Subs with high power ratings will have a heavier moving mass because the larger voice coil weighs more, then you need a stronger cone, stiffer and more quantity of spiders, overall the suspension will be more stiff which will take more power to get moving to a certain excursion level, takes more motor force to retain good cone control etc etc. 

The power rating of your sub only needs to be half of what the amp is rated for at the nominal impedance you plan on running. 

Well **** do I hold off on the sub I just ordered? I feel like my amp gives sufficient power for now. I know everyone would love to hear you set me up with 2400w to some bangers but I don't have that intention. Do I just go with a 350-500w sub that isn't some MTX Crutchfield **** tuned right? 

Edit: Unless I just say f**k it and grab a stronger amp though I wasn't budgeting for that. Suggest any well priced options to match this sub? But I'm ready to build an enclosure. 

 

[schwol]

accidental post. cheers for the help.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well **** do I hold off on the sub I just ordered? I feel like my amp gives sufficient power for now. I know everyone would love to hear you set me up with 2400w to some bangers but I don't have that intention. Do I just go with a 350-500w sub that isn't some MTX Crutchfield **** tuned right? 

Edit: Unless I just say f**k it and grab a stronger amp though I wasn't budgeting for that. Suggest any well priced options to match this sub? But I'm ready to build an enclosure. 

If you had 250 to buy a new sub, keep your old sub, build a ported box, buy a taramps hd 3000.1  and a voltmeter. Set the amp gains via your car voltage drop and it should be completely fine on your car electrical and you'll still have a lot more left in the amp should you ever upgrade electrical in the future but the amp should run fine as long as the gain is set to how much your stock electrical system can handle.   shoot for 12.8 volts drop and stop there when the car is turned on and you are playing your hardest hitting bass song.

 

[schwol]

If you had 250 to buy a new sub, keep your old sub, build a ported box, buy a taramps hd 3000.1  and a voltmeter. Set the amp gains via your car voltage drop and it should be completely fine on your car electrical and you'll still have a lot more left in the amp should you ever upgrade electrical in the future but the amp should run fine as long as the gain is set to how much your stock electrical system can handle.   shoot for 12.8 volts drop and stop there when the car is turned on and you are playing your hardest hitting bass song.

Thank you. I found some wiggle room in my budget for an amp also if I feel like I need one. I have the Machete Sport M12D1 on the way. Is Taramps really the bee's knees? Bang for buck, those little amps are impressive. So, a voltmeter like this one? How do I use this thing? Volume up to levels I'll listen at, start gain low, raise it and watch for drops to 12.8 during the heaviest bass sections I've got? I want to make you nerds proud that you helped a newbie learn some new stuff. My sub is a DVC 1ohm so with the Taramps 3000.1 2ohm would I not be able to just add another identical sub to it and power off this amp? 

 

[dudeogo]

Thank you. I found some wiggle room in my budget for an amp also if I feel like I need one. I have the Machete Sport M12D1 on the way. Is Taramps really the bee's knees? Bang for buck, those little amps are impressive. So, a voltmeter like this one? How do I use this thing? Volume up to levels I'll listen at, start gain low, raise it and watch for drops to 12.8 during the heaviest bass sections I've got? I want to make you nerds proud that you helped a newbie learn some new stuff. My sub is a DVC 1ohm so with the Taramps 3000.1 2ohm would I not be able to just add another identical sub to it and power off this amp? 

To add another sub you would have to buy the 1 ohm amp. 1 DVC 1 ohm sub Can wire to 2 or to 0.5 ohms. 2 D1s Can wire To 0.25, 1, and 4

about the volt meter. Always set the gain where it is clean. No need to slowly work it upwards, but the volt meter is to make sure you do not starve the amp for electrical and subsequently blow it. 

Have heard wonderful things about taramps online, my team leader had one and hated it, but I’m sure it’s an isolated instance based on all the praise online. Was also an older model. 

 

[MattinMO]

any amp. set gains via voltage drops and you can run any amp you want on any car.   How much of the amp's capabilities you'll be using is a different story.

your link is to a multimeter which can measure volts be he was talking about this https://www.amazon.com/4-0-30v-Digital-Display-Voltage-Voltmeter/dp/B00B689UGA/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=digital+voltmeter&qid=1554905382&s=gateway&sr=8-13