Adding Amp and Sub to Factory System...not happy with it.

_Newk_
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Hey guys. I took my Amp + Box out of my Scion tC when I traded it in on my current vehicle. It's a 2015 Veloster Turbo. The VT came with the 8 speaker Dimension audio system which actually doesn't sound all that bad. I planned on just leaving everything stock and enjoying my new found cargo space that I didnt have in my Scion when I had the box in the hatch. Unfortunately, I must have gotten bitten by the bass bug again because the more I walked past my stuff sitting in my bedroom corner, the more I wanted to put it in my Veloster. So I ordered an amp install kit and a relatively cheap LOC (Scosche LOC80) since that was all I needed to get up and running again and I didnt have the money right now for a good signal processor. I ran all the wiring for the amp and I jumped the LOC off of the speaker wires on factory amp underneath the passenger seat. I fired everything up and it really doesn't sound all that great. I know it isn't going to sound as loud as it did in my Scion since I was running a Clarion deck with built-in preamps for the amp, but I figured it would be much louder than what it is now.I am currently running a single Kicker L7 12" Solobaric off a Hifonics HFi1000.1d amp. I know it's not the greatest quality stuff but it hit really hard in my Scion. Nowhere close to it in my Veloster though. Is it just because of the factory head unit + LOC vs aftermarket deck? Or did I maybe hook something up incorrectly? By the way, I have to have the gains maxxed and the bass boost maxxed as well on the amp to get any decent kind of lows out of the sub. I didn't have to do that in my old car. I used to run bass boost off and gains at 3/4.

 
C'mon guys! I know my stuff is garbage but any help would be appreciated! lol

Should I not have connected the LOC to the factory amp? Could that be what's causing the poor sound quality?

 
C'mon guys! I know my stuff is garbage but any help would be appreciated! lol
Should I not have connected the LOC to the factory amp? Could that be what's causing the poor sound quality?
Most likely the internal processing is messing you up ..you’ll need some sorta dsp to get around this a standard local probably won’t work

 
---------- Post added at 09:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 AM ----------

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Most likely the internal processing is messing you up ..you’ll need some sorta dsp to get around this a standard local probably won’t work
I was afraid you were going to say that. Looks like I gotta pony up another 300 bucks or so and get a decent dsp.

It's just weird because I did the same install in my wife's Sonata using an LOC on the factory HU along with a Kicker 43CXA300.1 amp (Rated at 328w @ 2-ohms) + 10" Kicker Comp VR and it's louder than my 12" L7 with 700+ watts to it. And her gains aren't even all the way up.

 
Ok...just placed an order for an AudioControl LC2i. Hopefully it will help provide the additional bass that I am missing. Thanks for the help!

 
Ok...just placed an order for an AudioControl LC2i. Hopefully it will help provide the additional bass that I am missing. Thanks for the help!
Some decks you can get by with the cheaper LOCs but when they start adding all the fancy factory processing you need something better to work through it ...the LC2i should solve your issues

 
My audiocontrol lc2i does everything that I wanted it to do. I had a basic loc, which was worse than bad, the lc2i made a noticeable, and audible difference, very pleased with the outcome. I hope that it works for you as well.

 
an audio control lc2i should be able to help. or the lc6i I know it can sum channels from amplified signal or try to grab the speaker wires pre amp if possible

 
Yeah...I want to keep the factory HU for the Hyundai Blue Link Services and Back-Up Camera, so unfortunately I am stuck using a dsp/loc to get signal to my amp.

 
Yeah...I want to keep the factory HU for the Hyundai Blue Link Services and Back-Up Camera, so unfortunately I am stuck using a dsp/loc to get signal to my amp.
adding an LOC or a normal DSP alone wont help with the built in high pass crossover of the factory setup nor the built in EQ curve. You literally need something that DE-EQ aka flattens the signal, signal sums to restore and recreate a flat fullrange signal. The audiocontrol lc2I's bass restoration marketing gimmick is just a glorified 45hz bass boost, it doesnt really restore any kind of bass, its just boosting up a sh*tty distorted and cut bass signal rather than having a full dedicated bass signal. This is why having a dedicated sub pre-out is ridiculously important. Signal is one of the most important part of the setup and no one realizes it.

You need something that can signal sum and DE-EQ

 
adding an LOC or a normal DSP alone wont help with the built in high pass crossover of the factory setup nor the built in EQ curve. You literally need something that DE-EQ aka flattens the signal, signal sums to restore and recreate a flat fullrange signal. The audiocontrol lc2I's bass restoration marketing gimmick is just a glorified 45hz bass boost, it doesnt really restore any kind of bass, its just boosting up a sh*tty distorted and cut bass signal rather than having a full dedicated bass signal. This is why having a dedicated sub pre-out is ridiculously important. Signal is one of the most important part of the setup and no one realizes it.
You need something that can signal sum and DE-EQ
Oh well...if that's the case, I might as well just sell my box and amp and spend the money just upgrading all my factory speakers and saying to hell with an aftermarket amp and sub. I didn't realize it was going to be hundreds of dollars just to get a little extra thump from my factory system.

 
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