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Sleeklsc
THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts
Fuckyou
You would need to prep it very well, most amps have cases made from aluminum. Paint doesn't like to stick to aluminum. I would lightly scuff sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper, clean it with tsp, then use Zinsser BIN primer in a spray can then the final coat of whatever you like. You will want to do multiple thin layers of the topcoat and might have to wetsand in between coats or if you get any runs. As far as temp goes you should be fine, most spray paints will hold up to 200deg or so.
hispls 5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
IMO if you can't sandblast the heatsink and get it powder coated don't bother. I suspect a professional painter with the right tools, paint, and a booth could make one come out OK but it's still not the right way to paint something like that.
THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts
Fuckyou
Imo powercoating wouldn't be worth the $. Some patience and good prep will go a long way towards painting it. Figure around $20 for materials to paint it, powder coating would probably be at least double that.
OP
Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
- Thread Starter
- #5
I mount my amp on a panel attached to the X brace behind my box so I've rarely checked the heatsink temp. On a "normal" day it's not that bad. However, after a 30 min drive in 90 degree weather today playing at 30% volume it was quite toasty. As much as it pains me I'm going to keep it as-is, it's simply not worth the risk of it going into thermal protect for something I can't see.
Thanks though, guys.
Edit: Checked the amps temp in the trunk from baking in the sun for half the day and it was just a little cooler than the above.
Thanks though, guys.
Edit: Checked the amps temp in the trunk from baking in the sun for half the day and it was just a little cooler than the above.
Last edited by a moderator:
THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts
Fuckyou
Painting the amp won't hurt its heat dissispation properties, but if the surface isn't prepped well enough the paint could chip or peel. If you're saying the amp is hidden away then it's prob not worth it due to the time you'd be putting in to it.
OP
Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
- Thread Starter
- #7
That seems to be where people are split. Some say it'll take away heat dissipation, some don't. If I can convince myself to dig into it I'll prep it correctly.
It won't be seen, but i'll know it's there in its current state which isn't even all that bad. It's like an old piece of furniture you love but sick of looking at.
Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
I've been working in the aerospace industry for quite some time now. We have meetings once a month to go over stuff and reminders, customer escapes, scrap rates, injuries, etc. One of those things is paint failures. Since we work with a lot of aluminum, our parts get painted....anything that gets painted must have a primer to it so the paint can stick to it. Same with wood, except we all know wood is like a sponge and just soaks it up.
THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts
Fuckyou
I ran a multimillion dollar paint business for 3 years, so I am very confident in what I am saying.
Think about it, paint is just a coating that sits on top of the surface of a substrate. It's designed to molecularly bond to the surface of that substrate, obviously if the substrate is porous then the coating will soak in deeper than just the surface. The aluminum itself is not being altered in any way that would compromise its physical or molecular properties (melting point, boiling point, structural rigidity etc.)
It is conceivable that a coating could be applied in an amount thick enough to act as an insulator but we are talking about a coating of paint that is only a few mils thick.
There are high heat paints available for bbq grills and various car parts but they are unnecessary. Rustoleum spray paints like Painter's Touch 2x and Universal will handle surfaces up to 200deg F. If your amp is running that hot you have major problems.
OP
Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
- Thread Starter
- #10
Both of you are far more knowledgeable than me regarding this. I just needed to be reassured that it will have little to no effect on heat dissipation. Nothing like enjoying a nice clean job and then having it shut off randomly due to getting hot. I appreciate the help/learning session.
I was unfamiliar with what that was so I had to look it up. Seems like it's in the same category as kilz original, would that be an acceptable substitute as I have some of that on hand.
THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts
Fuckyou
No!
BIN is a shellac based primer, Kilz Original is oil based. Oil based paints are only good on wood and ferrous metals and don't stick to galvanized metals or aluminum.
Shellac based paints stick to anything and will seal any sort of stain or odor. It's the best type of primer you can get and it carries a slightly premium price, a gallon is about $42-45.
marc2112 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Powder coating hands down the way to go. Unmatched results and absolutely permanent.
sherwood71
Member
As Kush said Prep is the biggest factor when painting something. I've been in the business of painting for over 25 years, cars, trucks, planes, boats, multi billion dollar projects, etc etc.
To paint that heatsink I would use a grey scotch pad to scuff up the surface, https://repaintsupply.com/3m-07448-gray-scotch-brite-ultra-fine-scuff-pad-p516.html, these work good to scuff the surface for the paint to bond without leaving heavy sand scratches.
Wipe down the panel with TSP or damp cloth, dry off with a clean towel leaving no residue or water moisture.
Spray a light coat of Duplicolor Adhesion promoter, https://duplicolor.com/product/adhesion-promoter, let dry and then topcoat with your paint of choice. Using the adhesion promoter I will guarantee that the topcoat will stick and not peel off. I have used it a lot with very good results.
Don't use heavy coats when putting on topcoat or you may end up with runs.
To paint that heatsink I would use a grey scotch pad to scuff up the surface, https://repaintsupply.com/3m-07448-gray-scotch-brite-ultra-fine-scuff-pad-p516.html, these work good to scuff the surface for the paint to bond without leaving heavy sand scratches.
Wipe down the panel with TSP or damp cloth, dry off with a clean towel leaving no residue or water moisture.
Spray a light coat of Duplicolor Adhesion promoter, https://duplicolor.com/product/adhesion-promoter, let dry and then topcoat with your paint of choice. Using the adhesion promoter I will guarantee that the topcoat will stick and not peel off. I have used it a lot with very good results.
Don't use heavy coats when putting on topcoat or you may end up with runs.
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