HO ALT not an option, what else can I do?

RodeoSport
10+ year member

Junior Member
Hi guys

I am in a slightly difficult situation wherein I have a truck (Tata Safari) that has absolutely NO aftermarket support.

I am going to be running a 1K WRMS front stage and a Fi N2 with about 2.5-3K going into it.

I do not have the option of upgrading the alternator as nobody makes one for my car, and since I live in India, it is not practical for me to experiment with alts from mechman or dc power ets designed for other cars..

I am slightly lucky that my stock alt does 135A instead of a lower number.

I have already done the BIG3 Upgrade with 2 runs of 0 gauge wire.

What else can I do to help support my electrical load.

I was thinking of adding 2-3 banks of these bad boys in addition to 1 or two 150 ah batteries

Ultracapacitor Diesel Engine Battery Starter Booster Car Ultra/Super Capacitor | eBay

Each bank works out to be 370 farad which i believe is quite a bit.

So does anyone have any inputs on if this would work? Or what else can I do?

 
The only problem I see is your still using a cap to band aid a weak electrical, I would go with two batteries both agm deep cycle's since your alt has decent output to charge them, just try to keep your amperage draw lower then your alt output and you will be fine so try to keep your amps wired to higher ohm loads and avoid test tones at full tilt for long periods and it should be very solid with minimal voltage drops.

 
add an extra alt
That is what I originally intended on doing, but my mechanic told me that there is no space for a second alt //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

mail your alternator out to excessive amperage and let them build it up
I might try that, but I am worried that if they change the casing, it wont fit, but if they dont change the casing the alt will overheat.

The only problem I see is your still using a cap to band aid a weak electrical, I would go with two batteries both agm deep cycle's since your alt has decent output to charge them, just try to keep your amperage draw lower then your alt output and you will be fine so try to keep your amps wired to higher ohm loads and avoid test tones at full tilt for long periods and it should be very solid with minimal voltage drops.
I understand that caps are just a band aid ( a really really big one at 370 farad each) but i was planning on using it in conjunction with a battery bank of around 300ah.

My logic behind the caps being that since music is dynamic, and i wont be playing test tones/sine waves, the 370 X 3 so a little over 1100 farad bank will help stiffen my voltage and I wont see any major drops.

Please correct me if I am wrong or if the caps are not a good idea or even if 3 of those banks are overkill ( thats what my mech told me)

Thanks for all the replies so far

 
I'm thinking that the caps would be great IF the alt put out more then you could consume but caps discharge quickly and take a second to charge back up I would go with the batteries first(the right kind of coarse)what I didn't like about the caps, if you read even how he described the use of them (If the engine doesn't start on the first try, in a minute or so the battery will recharge the ultracaps for another strong shot.) so even here he' saying even as large as they are they will dump ALL there power quickly now your voltage is even lower because your batteries are working to keep the amps/car going as it's also trying to recharge the caps that have dumped all there power already.

 
Yeah I get what you mean, because my caps and secondary batteries are all still a load on my stock alt. What is an optimistic wish is that the alt manages to top up the caps and batteries in between the bass notes. So then they pretty much act like a bank. give the amps a loan, and then collect from the alt when its got some to spare.

Also would have helped if I mentioned this before. I never plan on playing full tilt for more than 10-15 mins at the most.

 
Sorry for the back to back post.

This is what i had in the car upto last month. was running stock electrical with about 2KWRMS, with the pedal to the metal for as much power as i could get out of the alt.


 
You can either

A. Get another vehicle that has aftermark support

B. Get a custom bracket made

C. Find somewhere to add another alternator

But you're setting yourself up for failure if you try to run 4k watts on that stock alternator. You'll end up damaging your cars electrical and your audio equipment.

 
He's clearly not in the untied states brah's.
Yes he's in India

There really isn't much he can do about it. If he truly wants to run 4k watts, then he will find a way to put a bigger alternator on his car lol, there really isn't a way around it.

 
How big an alt will I need anyways? The way I calculated it was 4000W/13V=307A. Since my stock was 135A add that, so I would need 450ish?

If my stock alt is rated to do 135 A, how much do you feel it can safely be rewound to do, without getting into thermal problems?

 
I'd say your best bet is to:

1. Get a different vehicle

2. Run less power....

or 3. Contact (not Mechman or DC), Excessive Amperage, Ohio Generators, Singer.

I've head great things from EA, Ohio, and Singer.

Why I don't recommend Mechman: Bad business practices, I've seen too many things handled poorly. Fwiw, their alts have always had good reviews, when they do work and fit.

Why I don't recommend DC: Really really really slow build time for a lot of customers. I've seen so many people saying they took several months to get their alternator from them. I've also seen people saying it only took a couple weeks. Again, always heard great things about their alternators when they finally do get them.

Oh, and I'd recommend a ~300a alt if you're just running music daily. Even if you're running it full blast for comps, you're gonna need a battery/capacitor bank anyways. It's just a guesstimation, but I think 300a could be sufficient for moderate use with music.

 
Make sure you have a deep cycle AGM up front and add at least 1 deep cycle AGM battery to the rear. The deep cycle allows for a deeper constant discharge and the ability to be drawn down and brought back to full charge without damage to the internal plates. The Absorbed Glass Mat or AGM type of deep cycle batteries discharge and recharge quicker than a regular flooded type deep cycle. This effect can be enhanced further by using the same type of batteries throughout the system. You do not want to mix normal starting type batts with deep cycle, or worse flooded cell with AGM, they charge differently and will have adverse effects on the whole system and possibly some premature batt failures.

A dash mounted voltage meter will keep tabs on things and you know what is going on at all times.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

RodeoSport

10+ year member
Junior Member
Thread starter
RodeoSport
Joined
Location
Planet Earth
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
17
Views
1,455
Last reply date
Last reply from
RodeoSport
IMG_6578.png

saints747

    May 7, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_6579.png

saints747

    May 7, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top