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help me rebuild my front stage and integrate rear fill

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Why So Cereal?

Why So Cereal?
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So I'm wanting to redo all of my mids n highs. Since one of my Boston tweets is shot anyway. And I never was completely satisfied with all of it.

Here are some options I've come up with:

1. Passive 2 way comp set probably Boston sc50 and matching coaxials rear.

2. Some kind of full range driver in my door then an extra tweeter up front high to lift the stage then maybe a midrange driver for rear fill.

3. Somehow Design a 2 way set comin out to 2 ohms final using 2 mids and one tweeter one mid in front door, one mid in rear panel and tweeter upfront.

Looking for some good SQ since I'm very picky lol and also would like to be able to do small sq comps and win!

Have about 50w rms @ 4 ohms or 100@2 ohms. Also stable down to one ohm.

But only have 2 channels available for mids n highs.

Can fit up to 6.5 in my door. And 5.25 probably best in rear. Sorry if this is messy, did it quick on my cell

Click to read more...
 
All I know is I put some of the best pioneers. (Not stage 4) 6.5 comps in an Malibu yesterday and couldn't believe the sound loud and clear especially for $110the for a new set on eBay......would say the sound was smoother than colored like other pioneers

 
All I know is I put some of the best pioneers. (Not stage 4) 6.5 comps in an Malibu yesterday and couldn't believe the sound loud and clear especially for $110the for a new set on eBay......would say the sound was smoother than colored like other pioneers
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Pioneer TS d1720c...lol got em. I like em especially for the price but maybe its just me but there's a nasty peak around 2500hz and it makes some vocals sound tinny almost and tweeter seems to get confused sometimes. Lol

but for tthe price and a person not as picky as me they are the FIRST set id recommend to anyone! May use some part of em in my new setup,idk yet

 
Pioneer TS d1720c...lol got em. I like em especially for the price but maybe its just me but there's a nasty peak around 2500hz and it makes some vocals sound tinny almost and tweeter seems to get confused sometimes. Lolbut for tthe price and a person not as picky as me they are the FIRST set id recommend to anyone! May use some part of em in my new setup,idk yet
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What's your eq and crossovers set like?

 
Got em high passed at 63hz. Using the passive xover between tweet and mid. Eq is flat except for some cutting at 2500hz by 2db, 4db sometimes.

I try to only do subtractive eq'ing. The low xover point is what I think is giving me that peak.

 
Try some Diamond Hex 600s comps, tweets come down to 1800 hz. 150 RMS, very impressive midbass as well. You can have your tweeter placed a good distance from your midbass/midrange and still blend well because of the lower cutoff frequency for the tweeters. They do sound very well, but are a little pricey. I run some older Diamonds and love the tonality of them. Make sure they are the new models of the Hex's.

 
Looked into those comps and they seem pretty decent. Depends on the price I find em for tho. I'm really wanting to try setting something up myself. Maybe a 4 ohm tweet n mid and using hpf and lpf to bi amp them and get a 2 ohm load on my amp for more power.

 
Looked into those comps and they seem pretty decent. Depends on the price I find em for tho. I'm really wanting to try setting something up myself. Maybe a 4 ohm tweet n mid and using hpf and lpf to bi amp them and get a 2 ohm load on my amp for more power.
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it doesn't work like that. the simple answer is because they of the xo the mid and tweet play different frequencies. So the ohms stay the same, 4 ohms in this case. There is a lot more to it than that though.

 
I was talkin about using the separate hpf n.lpf u can buy on pe.com not just a passive xover but that was just a quick idea. I may buy a passive from dayton and match a mid n tweet. Or I wouldn't mind trying a full range driver with maybe a high tweeter

 
i'd focus more right now on front stage if i were u. a properly setup front stage will never make u feel like your missing rear fill.

and get a bigger 4 channel if it was me, or find a beastly 2 channel to just run some good mids off of.

 
Don't use the passive xo that pe sells. You need to design an xo to match the drivers used, if you are new to this don't start on your car. Home audio is hard enough. Going active is much easier.

 
Ive already got midbass covered so just looking for midrange and highs. Most of the raw drivers I've looked into have been rated around 50wrms so I dont think I necessarily need more power just trying to decide which setup will give me the best imaging and depth

 
Don't use the passive xo that pe sells. You need to design an xo to match the drivers used, if you are new to this don't start on your car. Home audio is hard enough. Going active is much easier.
Click to expand...
Jus from curiosity what's wrong with the Dayton xos? Its not as simple as choosing the xover freq?

 
Jus from curiosity what's wrong with the Dayton xos? Its not as simple as choosing the xover freq?
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no its not, the xo point changes as the impedance changes, and the impedance can change as much as 20 ohms. it also will affect the phase of the speakers.

getting a small amp for your tweeters and and active xo is a better choice, unless you can measure frequency response and impedance of the installed drivers.

 
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Why So Cereal?

Why So Cereal?

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