You've talked me into it.....going ACTIVE

[tooshort_128 10+ year member]

I just got a new truck and with all the functions integrated into the factory HU, I'm definitely keeping it. That leads me to having to get a DSP since I want a nice sounding setup. For this reason, I may as well go ahead and go the active route. This will be a new thing for me, picking raw drivers and such but I'm willing to learn. So far, I'm looking at the following:

Stock HU

NVX JAD800.4 for mids/highs

NVX JAD1200.1 for subs

Helix DSP or similar

2 Sundown 8's or 10's tuned around 35Hz (space limitations - underseat box)

My question now, is what mids and tweets to get. I hear good things about the Dayton RS180's but they are 7" so I'd have to modify the 6x9 to 6.5" adapters. Not sure what tweets to get, but the Dayton ND25FA tweets are definitely in my price range lol. Not sure if the RS180s will play up to 2500hz, where the tweets would come on. Any other combo suggestions are welcomed as long as they are in the $150 range

Lastly, I occasionally have rear seat passengers so I'd like something in the rear doors. I'm thinking just some low powered coax's or just mids so I don't have highs coming from behind. Should I run the rear fill off the HU or could I run the tweets off channels 1/2 and then bridge 3/4 for the 4 door speakers? The amp does 2/3/4 channels so does this work or make sense?

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[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

I just got a new truck and with all the functions integrated into the factory HU, I'm definitely keeping it. That leads me to having to get a DSP since I want a nice sounding setup. For this reason, I may as well go ahead and go the active route. This will be a new thing for me, picking raw drivers and such but I'm willing to learn. So far, I'm looking at the following:
Stock HU

NVX JAD800.4 for mids/highs

NVX JAD1200.1 for subs

Helix DSP or similar

2 Sundown 8's or 10's tuned around 35Hz (space limitations - underseat box)

My question now, is what mids and tweets to get. I hear good things about the Dayton RS180's but they are 7" so I'd have to modify the 6x9 to 6.5" adapters. Not sure what tweets to get, but the Dayton ND25FA tweets are definitely in my price range lol. Not sure if the RS180s will play up to 2500hz, where the tweets would come on. Any other combo suggestions are welcomed as long as they are in the $150 range

Lastly, I occasionally have rear seat passengers so I'd like something in the rear doors. I'm thinking just some low powered coax's or just mids so I don't have highs coming from behind. Should I run the rear fill off the HU or could I run the tweets off channels 1/2 and then bridge 3/4 for the 4 door speakers? The amp does 2/3/4 channels so does this work or make sense?

wait few hours they'll talk u outta those amps lol., the nvx1200, ss1200 and polk 1200 are basically same amp as mine and i'm sure my amp is cheaper.. how much $ u looking to spend on amps we'll help shop., we good at spending other peeps $ lol..

 

[tooshort_128 10+ year member]

Not a good sub amp? Research shows they do over rated power and I found an open box one for $179. Please enlighten me. The last amp I bought was my Diamond Audio D5 1200.1. I want to stay sub $200 for sub amp.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Not a good sub amp? Research shows they do over rated power and I found an open box one for $179. Please enlighten me. The last amp I bought was my Diamond Audio D5 1200.1. I want to stay sub $200 for sub amp.

my amp ppi amp is great $169 same as that (look at the ss filter if it only goes to 38hz it's exact same as mine there's like 4 of them) be careful on the open box., guy here got one at sonic and it was really messed up.. u can also get the ppi 900.4 good price lots of peeps here run them.. just saying lots of amps in that price range.. in fact since u haven't bought sub yet i strongly suggest u look at the 63bug auction he has 2 zapco amps 1 never been used for $400, the sub amp is 1600, so u would need 0 ga wire and big 3 done but it's a great deal he just listed them here last nite

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/633583-f-s-zapco-st1650-st4xp.html

 

[tooshort_128 10+ year member]

Thanks! I'm not opposed to the PPI amps, if they'll save me a few bucks and get similar power. Picking raw drivers is the tough part since I haven't gone this route before. I was going to get the ID 65cs comps and ditch the passive crossover, but I figure I can pick my own combo and maybe get better sound.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='tooshort_128']Thanks! I'm not opposed to the PPI amps, if they'll save me a few bucks and get similar power. Picking raw drivers is the tough part since I haven't gone this route before. I was going to get the ID 65cs comps and ditch the passive crossover, but I figure I can pick my own combo and maybe get better sound.[/QUOTE]
@Jeffdachef is good at drivers., did u look at those zapcos? others will be around later for ideas..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks! I'm not opposed to the PPI amps, if they'll save me a few bucks and get similar power. Picking raw drivers is the tough part since I haven't gone this route before. I was going to get the ID 65cs comps and ditch the passive crossover, but I figure I can pick my own combo and maybe get better sound.

you were better off with the daytons idea. i'd at least do tymphany/vifa xt 25s with pvc endcaps +hollow bolts/screws from home depot for tweeter pods.

Leave the rears stock off head unit power and dont waste money on it. If you have money for it, spend all that excess on the front stage/amps/deadening acoustical treatments. Way better than spending even a penny on the rears.

PPI and NVX are the exact same amps.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Thanks! I'm not opposed to the PPI amps, if they'll save me a few bucks and get similar power. Picking raw drivers is the tough part since I haven't gone this route before. I was going to get the ID 65cs comps and ditch the passive crossover, but I figure I can pick my own combo and maybe get better sound.

if u maybe wanta do 2 different brand amps (most peeps do) if u gonna run daytons or E i know the amp for u SSA Store - Twisted Sounds TS1KW (TS1KW) the us acoustics mike 1500 nice too or ts1.3 if u gonna spend more.. and just get 2 channel for mids like jeff said or maybe u could buy that zap 4 channel from 63bug and bridge it., i think that's what he was gonna do.. yeah many peeps here don't run rears at all..

 

[tooshort_128 10+ year member]

you were better off with the daytons idea. i'd at least do tymphany/vifa xt 25s with pvc endcaps +hollow bolts/screws from home depot for tweeter pods.
Leave the rears stock off head unit power and dont waste money on it. If you have money for it, spend all that excess on the front stage/amps/deadening acoustical treatments. Way better than spending even a penny on the rears.

PPI and NVX are the exact same amps.

I was just saying the ID's were the original before coming up with the raw drivers idea. I guess I'll save the money I spend on rears and put I toward deadening materials and sealing my doors. I don't want to cut any of my interior unless I got another set of sail panels, so I'm looking to use the stock tweeter locations. I'd need some tweets that work off axis.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I was just saying the ID's were the original before coming up with the raw drivers idea. I guess I'll save the money I spend on rears and put I toward deadening materials and sealing my doors. I don't want to cut any of my interior unless I got another set of sail panels, so I'm looking to use the stock tweeter locations. I'd need some tweets that work off axis.

with tweeter pods you arent cutting anything. Just a slight drill hole. Not much good cheap off axis tweeters out there... They work but no where near as good as on axis. I'd look at air motion tweeters (AMT) instead if you want off axis performance.

 

[tooshort_128 10+ year member]

Looks like I'll have to do some cutting to accommodate some decent on axis tweets. I'll find some replacement sail panels later. I'd rather have good sound.