Worse dimming AFTER big 3!?

Would I need a new battery even if it's at 14.4V with the car on? When the bass hits it drops about a full volt to around 13.3 or so.

 
err sorry didnt read the entire post, yeah if its under 12 without the car on (and nothing else elctrical).. what he said^

infact disconnect the batt altogether and then test it.

 
most likely the battery but make sure all your connections are solid. i highly doubt its the connections but just to be sure. battery should read 12-12.6 volts or so from positive to negative terminal

 
Thanks for the help, guys. Looks like I'll need a new battery. How many cranking amps are considered to be good? I can get a red Optima that cranks 910A and 720 cold, 3 yr warranty for $180 or a Duralast for half the Optima's price cranking out 935A, 750 cold, with three times the Optima warranty.

 
Thanks for the help, guys. Looks like I'll need a new battery. How many cranking amps are considered to be good? I can get an red Optima that cranks 910A and 720 cold for $180
Depending on what size your stock battery is, get the biggest battery you can fit from Kinetik, PowerMaster, Stinger, and the likes. It'll be a bit pricey, well, actually, $180 for the redtop according to your price, so it might actually not be too much more expensive. But it'll be substantially better I believe..

For audio purposes, CCA or CA are not really important as the CCA is generally rated at a very low voltage I believe. What you wanna look at is (Ah) ratings for the most part.

 
Great, thanks for the replies, guys. Now, which battery would you recommend? I'm on a budget, so the cheaper the better. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 
depends on what you can fit in your car...what is it? I would start looking at Kinetic and Powermaster...those are my top choses but dont want to shell out the dough for a car audio bat then i would go for an optima

 
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