Wiring Solo Baric L7 to 1 ohm or 4 ohm help please

OGredneck73

Junior Member
I just bought a 12" L7 and when I bought it I was giving him the specs on the amp I am running which is a 4000 watt Soundstorm SSL EVO which is 4000 watts 1ohm stable, 3000 watts @ 2 ohms, and 1600 watts @ 4 ohms. I only have 1 sub and am wondering if I should wire the sub to 4 ohms to be on the safe side because he wired it to 1 ohm and I have checked it with a meter and it reads 1.2-1.3. I know this sub won't handle 4k @ 1ohm so should I switch it to 4 ohms?

 
Thanx for your response it is my amp not yours so don't worry about what it is putting out! My question was do I need to wire my speaker back to 4 ohms to be on the safe side?

 
Thanx for your response it is my amp not yours so don't worry about what it is putting out! My question was do I need to wire my speaker back to 4 ohms to be on the safe side?
He was trying to be nice and tell u it doesnt do much power at 1 ohm so it def wont do much at 4 ohms.he was telling u for ur benefit bc it is ur amp ...none of us would touch it with a 10 ft pole

 
I had it meter tested and i know it is enough to run the L7 there are other ways to give advice nicely without just chiming in with a bash. The amp will do just fine on one sub at what the sub is rated at either 1 ohm or 4 ohms. So please helpful advice only.

 
He wasn't bashing. He knows a lot more than you about this if your having to ask a question like this. He's always helping people on there questions on here. You're gonna get a horrible signal to the sub no matter what you do, so have fun.

 
Wire it to 1 ohm and set the gains correctly with a oscope so u can see when the wave starts to square off ..if u dont have access use the dmm method and set it to 600-700rms..if u try ti match the output the amp is suppose to out out you wilk have a very dirty clipped signal...and the l7 does not take power well as it is

 
Why have all the new that have been signing up here been such pansies and take everything ****? Wire to one youll be fine. Just dont have your gain up thinking its a volum knob

 
Haha never know when there are two tours behind the name thanks for the pansie comment. I know the line between constructive criticism and a bash.......i ******** daily with friends guys.....I know this amp isn't a kicker or JL or cost alot The speaker is only rated at 750 watts Im not trying to compete or blow out windows or anything. My question was simple and the first response I got I didn't need. Thanks everyone for the help......HOOAH!

 
Haha never know when there are two tours behind the name thanks for the pansie comment. I know the line between constructive criticism and a bash.......i ******** daily with friends guys.....I know this amp isn't a kicker or JL or cost alot The speaker is only rated at 750 watts Im not trying to compete or blow out windows or anything. My question was simple and the first response I got I didn't need. Thanks everyone for the help......HOOAH!
You in the army bro?

 
Haha never know when there are two tours behind the name thanks for the pansie comment. I know the line between constructive criticism and a bash.......i ******** daily with friends guys.....I know this amp isn't a kicker or JL or cost alot The speaker is only rated at 750 watts Im not trying to compete or blow out windows or anything. My question was simple and the first response I got I didn't need. Thanks everyone for the help......HOOAH!
People are just giving you tough love man. A lot of car audio companies nowadays lie and rip people off just to make a dollar to a disgusting degree. They will say 4000 watts for 150 which looks like a great deal but when you actually do an amplifer test for true power, the amp falls on its face.

IF you have time, here's a vid on a so called 5000 watt amp, that shares a similar board layout as yours






For reference, here is a picture of an actual 5000 watt amp that does rated power weighing in at 30lbs There are brands that are much better than kicker and JL for subwoofer amps.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0015/80/38/15880883_large.jpg

Thats the reason why people are riled up when you say you think your amp is too powerful for the sub when its barely enough to move the sub at 1 ohm. 4 ohm, the sub will be starving for power. Wire to 1 ohm, dont use bass boost dont crank the gain (input level sensitivity) too high and dont use bass boost or loudness features on your head unit. Those are the things that kills subs and amps. Only bass related options that can be used is the sub level control and volume knob. Make sure you do full blast tests and see how hot your sub gets, if its hot then you need to lower the gain down. If its not hot at all then you can try pushing tad more.

 
I just bought a 12" L7 and when I bought it I was giving him the specs on the amp I am running which is a 4000 watt Soundstorm SSL EVO which is 4000 watts 1ohm stable, 3000 watts @ 2 ohms, and 1600 watts @ 4 ohms. I only have 1 sub and am wondering if I should wire the sub to 4 ohms to be on the safe side because he wired it to 1 ohm and I have checked it with a meter and it reads 1.2-1.3. I know this sub won't handle 4k @ 1ohm so should I switch it to 4 ohms?
If its a DVC4 ohm wire it to a 2ohm load..If its a DVC2 ohm wire it to 1ohm load,you can always run one coil but at 1/2 the rms load

 
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