Wiring for the new equipment...

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

I'm purchasing the following equipment to go in my 2000 Ford Ranger (items will be purchased in this order):

1. Subwoofer -Image Dynamics ID10D2v3 - Purchased today, 11/4

2. Components - Image Dynamics CTX65CS - Purchased today, 11/4

3. Amplifier - ARC Audio FD 600.1

4. Amplifier - ARC Audio FD 2200

5. Subwoofer - Image Dynamics ID10D2v3

Okay, I bought the first sub and the component set today. When they come I will be running them with my shitty Z-Edition 400.4 amplifier (but only for a couple of weeks). I will bridge 2 channels for the subwoofer, wiring the voice coils in a series at 4 Ohms. The components will then each have their own channel, obviously. It will be wired like this.

Anyway, I plan to go ahead and buy the wiring for the rest of the equipment so everything is "plug 'n' play." What I was going to do was run some 2/0 AWG to a power distributor somewhere in the back of my truck (haven't decided yet). Then I will run two loose 4/0 AWG wires to the planned mounting positions of each amplifier (leaving some extra length to work with).

From that point I will then run loose ?? AWG speaker wire to each subwoofer box position from the 600.1 mount-place. I will also as run ?? AWG wire from where the 2200 will be mounted to the front doors where the speakers are. Again, I am not sure of the AWG as I couldn't find it in the manuals.

Once I get the second subwoofer I will wire it like this.

I'm not to clear about this though. What am I doing here? Putting both wires in positive/negative terminals on the amp and then running them accordingly to the sub?

As far as RCA's from the HU go, I will be recycling my old ones if possible.

I think that about covers it, no? I'm gonna run out to my truck and snap a couple pictures and take a double look at everything.

Thanks!

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[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

for speaker wire use 12gauge for the subs and i use 14 for my interior that way i can add up to any size i want. as for the wiring of the sub you will wire each sub individually first. since you are getting d2 subs you want each sub to show a 4 ohm load. take one sub and run the negative of a coil to the positive of the other coil. with the remaining pos and neg that goes to the amp. do the same with the other sub that will give you a 2 ohm load.

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

12 gauge wire should be sufficient for all of your speakers.

You should go to http://www.knukonceptz.com to find a distribution block, some power wire, a handful of ring terminals and in line fuse holder...

 

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

Alright, the 600.1 is 2x45A and the 2200 is 1x40A. That said, would youguys reccomend I fuse it at 120A or 150A? I was thinking 120A myself, but what do I know? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

Regarding the cable, I believe I read somewhere that the better option would be the tinned Oxygen-free? Is that correct? Here's the cable section of KnuKonceptz to use as a reference.

Also, I just pulled my HU out (Kenwood KDC-MP2032). The stereo shop who wired the current equipment by running the wire from the Amp to behind the HU where they just connected it to the stock speaker wires. Gotta love it.

Anyway the next question is the single power wire going from the HU to my amp. Should there be another spot back there so I can run an additional wire to the other amp? Or am I just gonna splice that single one in 2?

 

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

As for the distribution block I'd go 3-way and the fuses would be 1x120A to 1x100A/1x50A, right?

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

fuse at the battery is there to protect the batt and the car. so since the the amps total 130 is ay put 150a fuse up front. i myself prefer straight copper wire.

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

immortal do you have an im if so pm me

 

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

Then I'd go for 150A at the Dis. block, okay. Thanks.

PM sent, by the way.

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

no you go 150 at the fuse block by battery the d block is a diff story.