Wiring 1700 watt amp to 4 ohm

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

The gain is different from the bass boost. Turn your bass boost down and adjust the input level knob to adjust the gain. Don't mees with the bass boost, doing so could cause the signal to clip!

 

[plantinseeds]

So should it be safe to put 1200 watts on the single type r?

 

[HillBillyJoe]

No, not with you.

Do some reading up, don't use bass boost, keep your gain low, keep the bass setting on your deck down, etc etc, don't use the "loud" feature. All these things can send a horribly clipped signal and destroy that sub in minutes with some abuse. It might just survive at 2 ohm then.

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

Methinks voice coil damage is in OP's future....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[CADENCE SOUND 10+ year member]

Just keep your gains low, and do not use any bass boost..

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

So should it be safe to put 1200 watts on the single type r?

No

Do some reading up, don't use bass boost, keep your gain low, keep the bass setting on your deck down, etc etc, don't use the "loud" feature. All these things can send a horribly clipped signal and destroy that sub in minutes with some abuse. It might just survive at 2 ohm then.

This ^

You can wire it to whatever ohm load you want... I'd suggest 2 ohms since that's the simplest. I'd set the gain for 600w though. you don't HAVE to use the full power of the amp, you can set the gain to put out whatever power you want, that's why it's there.

And as was said.... don't use any bass boost or loudness or etc. Anything that makes it "magically louder" is a no no.

 

[plantinseeds]

That must've been my problem that caused the other Type R to blow, I used the LOUD feature, Volume control was at +5, volume was constantly on 40+.

I just tried hooking up the sub with all of the bass/input levels at 0, but as I powered the amp on, the protection light came on.

The car was off but the amp was on, so I am assuming there is a problem with the remote wire... what should I be checking for to find out what the remote wire problem is?

I didn't try turning the car on and testing the sub out at all.

I also tried to tune the amp again but I was only getting the 1-10 AC volts reading from my DMM when I turned both the gain settings and input levels up on the amp, when I am supposed to be getting 58.3 volts according to the automatic voltage calculator on the CA database thread.

Kind of getting frustrated with all of this + I can't find another matching type r to save my life.

 

[jokers10 10+ year member]

Ok, so I just hooked it up, played a 50hz test tone, while reading the voltage output (AC) from the positive and negative speaker outputs, I was only get from 1-10 volts 10 volts when I turned the bass boost all the way up. The recommended voltage for my setup is 58.3 volts. Did I possibly hook something up wrong? The volume was at 30, the max volume on my deck is around 40 before it starts distorting.

Turn the bass boost all the way down. Turn the remote knob all the way up. Set your volume on your head unit to the max volume before clipping. Now connect your DMM to the speaker out put, and turn up your gain (not bass boost) until you reach your calculated voltage.

 

[plantinseeds]

The only gain setting on the amp is labelled as "Bass Boost", the amp did come with a remote bass control knob, is that the one you are talking about? Also the input sensitivity is on 2V-8V the other option is 1V-2V, im not sure what the input sensitivity is or if it matters.

Phase setting is on 0 degrees the other phase option is 180 degrees. Also don't know what this means or if it matters.

Low pass filter is on 50hz, other option is 150hz, dont know what this means or if it matters.

Bridged mode is on master instead of slave.

Subsonic filter is on 10hz.

Also another stupid question, where do I plug the RCA's in? There is one dark gray wire and one light gray wire, how do I know which wire is L or R? also do i plug them into the "Line Input" or "Line Output"?

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

All these things can send a horribly clipped signal and destroy that sub in minutes with some abuse.

Clipping does not destroy subs.. The only way to destroy a sub is thermally or mechanically (too much excursion)

 

[plantinseeds]

Can someone please answer the last set of questions I posted? Help would be much appreciated.

 

[HillBillyJoe]

Clipping does not destroy subs.. The only way to destroy a sub is thermally or mechanically (too much excursion)

Yeah bro, it does. It sends more power to the sub if he is maxed out on gain and bass boost, but its really dirty square wave power and it heats up the coil=thermals

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

Yeah bro, it does. It sends more power to the sub if he is maxed out on gain and bass boost, but its really dirty square wave power and it heats up the coil=thermals

Maybe in rare cases does extreme clipping cause thermal damage but usually it will only damage the amp if you clip the signal

Unless you're straight retarded, to destroy a sub from clipping is pretty difficult.

 

[jsluss17 10+ year member]

The only gain setting on the amp is labelled as "Bass Boost", the amp did come with a remote bass control knob, is that the one you are talking about? Also the input sensitivity is on 2V-8V the other option is 1V-2V, im not sure what the input sensitivity is or if it matters.
Phase setting is on 0 degrees the other phase option is 180 degrees. Also don't know what this means or if it matters.

Low pass filter is on 50hz, other option is 150hz, dont know what this means or if it matters.

Bridged mode is on master instead of slave.

Subsonic filter is on 10hz.

Also another stupid question, where do I plug the RCA's in? There is one dark gray wire and one light gray wire, how do I know which wire is L or R? also do i plug them into the "Line Input" or "Line Output"?

bass boost is NOT the gain. it should say input level for the gain

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

This. You should've gotten the DVC 2-ohm version and wired it in series to reach a 4 ohm load. 

I know it's a Type R, but they're not durable enough to handle 1200w. Not the 12s.

 

The 15s..maybe.

 

You could try running it @ 2 ohms, but you'd have to be really careful w/ your gains, etc..

Is that a joke? He dosnt have to be careful about anything. He needs to set his gains proper VIA DMM for 500-650wrms, why would the 15 take more? Isnt it the same motor and VC.... Plus all the people that run 12in typr-rs on here give em like 800wrms so the 2ohm load is better

I am just going to wait until I get another working Type R then wired them both to 1 ohm.

Naw dude, just set ure gains correctly....

Look turn the bass boost OFF, dont use bass boost ever. Connect your DMM as you did before, turn ure volume knob to your max volume(that u listen too, max on the HU will cause clipping) Then slowly turn up the gain to the correct voltage. Make sure if you have a subwoofer lvl control on your HU its at max(not the bass lvl, subwoofer)

Lets say 600wrms for the sub, at 2ohms. That 1200, take the square root of that. THats 34.64Vs you should read at that max vokume and your sub will be set for 600wrms.