Why pay more for a JL audio amp?

With amps, it's all about power, features, and price. It's not about sound quality... amplifiers' don't make sound, they amplify it. If an amp is making it's own sound, it is broken.

The differences you hear in solid state amplifiers has to do with crossover and eq filters, your setting and install changes, and differences in power output. If you keep the volume of the amplifier below the distortion level of mids, which start at around 3%, match power levels, keep it under clipping, have all filters set to flat or off, it's impossible to hear any sound differences in amplifiers; this was proven many years ago.

 
With amps, it's all about power, features, and price. It's not about sound quality... amplifiers' don't make sound, they amplify it. If an amp is making it's own sound, it is broken.
The differences you hear in solid state amplifiers has to do with crossover and eq filters, your setting and install changes, and differences in power output. If you keep the volume of the amplifier below the distortion level of mids, which start at around 3%, match power levels, keep it under clipping, have all filters set to flat or off, it's impossible to hear any sound differences in amplifiers; this was proven many years ago.
midbass speakers start to distort at 3% of volume is what you're saying?

sheesh //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif

are you recommending i keep my EQ flat? i was thinking of putting the midbass frequencies higher to accentuate it with my comps

 
There are many different factors that go into determining how good an amp is. Unfortunately these days it's difficult to know what those factors are because the manufacturers don't publish them. It used to be back in the day companies were proud to publish certain things like a given power rating from 20-20Khz @ less than .005 THD. Or listing the dampening factor (which is very important if you're using the amp for driving subs). Now days they list very few meaningful specs and it's probably because more and more they're becoming more a throw-away item like everything else that's electronic. They just don't build the good ol' bullet proof tank amps like the old Phoenix Golds or Rockford Fosgates anymore. Now those were some amps!

 
its the whole quality over quantity thing. YOu can get a lanzar 1800d for less than that kicker amp and get more than 1000wrms, but it sounds "dirty" and may not be as reliable as the kicker amp. Same goes with the JL/kicker. the slash series has that consistent power across a range of impedence and people like that (especially those with w7's). The JL probably has a better sound to it as well. It sounds better because of the technology on the board and that technology has to be paid for. that is why it costs more.
One of the first things I thought I learned from the forums is that...power is power as long as its clean. Both the kicker and the JL would put out 1000 watts clean w/o clipping at 2 ohms(not saying any others bc of the kicker), so they would sound the same. Assuming the lpf and whatnot is all set the same.

Power is power.

 
It used to be back in the day companies were proud to publish certain things like a given power rating from 20-20Khz @ less than .005 THD.
Can't hear the difference between that and 1% (where most amps are rated now), so what does it matter ?

Or listing the dampening factor (which is very important if you're using the amp for driving subs).
No, it's not.

Now days they list very few meaningful specs
Maybe it's because nowadays people realize that all of those "old" specs aren't really as important as everyone thought they were back then //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Can't hear the difference between that and 1% (where most amps are rated now), so what does it matter ?


No, it's not.

Maybe it's because nowadays people realize that all of those "old" specs aren't really as important as everyone thought they were back then //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
So says you. Thay are important. If you don't think they are, hook up an amp to a sub with a dampening factory of 50 and listen to it, then hook up an amp with a dampening factor of at least 200 and tell me there's no difference. The difference is huge. Amps today are garbage compared to older built in the U.S.A. amps.

 
The only reason I would take the JL over the kicker here is if I need the power at higher ohm ratings. Or if I wasn't to sure if I was gonna keept he same sub. JL amp gives you a little more headway as its power does not change. But if using the same 2 ohm woofer in a direct swap application I doubt you will really hear any difference.

 
[sarcasm]Since none of those numbers mean anything I might suggest a good brand like Pyle, Pyramid, or even Roadmaster

Power is power, correct? If so, why does this forum even exist? I can get a good clean 100x2 amp at the flea market for 50 bucks. It might say 1000 watts on the heatsink but as long as I realize it's only giving me 100x2 and I use it accordingly who cares? Now that everyone knows this Sundown should be closing it's doors any day now.[/sarcasm]

A better question would be: why would two people argue over which subwoofer sounds the best, buy what they consider the best, and then mount it in the trunk, behind a layer of sheetmetal, cardboard, and a foot of seat foam where all the differences are lost?

 
So says you. Thay are important. If you don't think they are, hook up an amp to a sub with a dampening factory of 50 and listen to it, then hook up an amp with a dampening factor of at least 200 and tell me there's no difference. The difference is huge. Amps today are garbage compared to older built in the U.S.A. amps.
Most DF's are measured @ 4ohm, you cut damping when you lower your ohm load, so the you start with 400 damp rating at 4ohms goto 2ohms 200 damp factor and so on.
You won't hear it in sub frequencies anyway.

 
[sarcasm]Since none of those numbers mean anything I might suggest a good brand like Pyle, Pyramid, or even Roadmaster
Power is power, correct? If so, why does this forum even exist? I can get a good clean 100x2 amp at the flea market for 50 bucks. It might say 1000 watts on the heatsink but as long as I realize it's only giving me 100x2 and I use it accordingly who cares? Now that everyone knows this Sundown should be closing it's doors any day now.[/sarcasm]

A better question would be: why would two people argue over which subwoofer sounds the best, buy what they consider the best, and then mount it in the trunk, behind a layer of sheetmetal, cardboard, and a foot of seat foam where all the differences are lost?

I have been arguing this for quite some time. I believe it so strongly, I rarely reccomend any sub.

 
Most DF's are measured @ 4ohm, you cut damping when you lower your ohm load, so the you start with 400 damp rating at 4ohms goto 2ohms 200 damp factor and so on.
You won't hear it in sub frequencies anyway.
DF can be measured at any impedence and it's ESPECIALLY important for driving subs. Do you even know what dampaning factor is measuring?

 
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