Why am I seeing..

Might be some people want touch screen and new features, or hard times or getting out of audio or its a spare one from a ride they are selling.

I actually want a touch screenfor the looks, its 2017 soon and i would like to have my car looking up to date with the times along with a back up camera especially when I wall my sh*t. Single din is cool and all but most people think its a cheapy run of the mill aftermarket head unit. If they can make a touchscreen 80 prs, ill be the first to buy.

 
Because external dsps are becoming so cheap and because people want factory looking.

The c-dsp is around the same price as the 80prs and allows for factory integration or direct to phone play through.

Ive tuned my car to the nines and I believe that a solid external dsp and a headunit with a 16 or 32 band eq is absolutely necessary because you can get a curve and great L/R response from a external dsp but tonality is a ***** to tune on a computer. So much easier to do while driving with a headunit capable.

But yea. #1 reason is external dsps are becoming affordable

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Might be some people want touch screen and new features, or hard times or getting out of audio or its a spare one from a ride they are selling.
I actually want a touch screenfor the looks, its 2017 soon and i would like to have my car looking up to date with the times along with a back up camera especially when I wall my sh*t. Single din is cool and all but most people think its a cheapy run of the mill aftermarket head unit. If they can make a touchscreen 80 prs, ill be the first to buy.
I like the idea of a built in voltage reader on a HU. That's genius.

My s10 has a bigger opening that will accept a din and a 1/2. Not very happy that din and 1/2 don't have as much features built in than reg din. Otherwise I might buy into one. I just may get the 80prs next year. This Clarion cz702 is a bit challenging getting the sound right.

 
I like the idea of a built in voltage reader on a HU. That's genius.
My s10 has a bigger opening that will accept a din and a 1/2. Not very happy that din and 1/2 don't have as much features built in than reg din. Otherwise I might buy into one. I just may get the 80prs next year. This Clarion cz702 is a bit challenging getting the sound right.
The clarion eq ***** active options are limited, everything limited. Idk why others even try to put them in the same category. Theres a cheap pioneer 149 dollar single din head unit with 13 band EQ and network capable with time alignment as well nowadays.

 
2v no thank.s Like the 5v better. I know it's nothing compared others but...I just may give up on this Clarion. My older Alpine is such simpliar to use, I almost have to do nothing and has better clearer sound than the Clarion. It has a lot of features but for me to go thru that much trouble to get clear sound is such a turnoff...and a waste of time imo.

Just may sell it in Jan and buy the 90prs. Give it a try.

 
2v no thank.s Like the 5v better. I know it's nothing compared others but...I just may give up on this Clarion. My older Alpine is such simpliar to use, I almost have to do nothing and has better clearer sound than the Clarion. It has a lot of features but for me to go thru that much trouble to get clear sound is such a turnoff...and a waste of time imo.
Just may sell it in Jan and buy the 90prs. Give it a try.
Get a C-dsp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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2v no thank.s Like the 5v better. I know it's nothing compared others but...I just may give up on this Clarion. My older Alpine is such simpliar to use, I almost have to do nothing and has better clearer sound than the Clarion. It has a lot of features but for me to go thru that much trouble to get clear sound is such a turnoff...and a waste of time imo.
Just may sell it in Jan and buy the 90prs. Give it a try.
more voltage doesnt always mean its superior, it does not mean your sh*t will sound any better either it just means you have different gain settings, thats all. That clarion is junk IMO

well if its like that, I dont think you would like the 80 prs because it has a pretty steep learning curve. You should stick with alpine for your next build and keep it simple.

Active capable head units are for guys who are willing to get down and dirty with the tuning utilizing every aspect and feature of the head unit. Its not that you buy the 80 prs, set gains and expect it to sound good.

There's a whole process to utilizing the 80 prs. AKA proper RCA wiring, proper amount of amplifier channels to mid and tweeter along with proper positioning. Then change the head unit to active mode then onto tuning.

You gain match the tweets and the mids first, turn off the sub

You set proper crossover points and slopes, this process alone requires 1+ hours of listening and testing and adjusting.

Then time align the drivers for your front driver listening postion, first start off measuring the distance from each mid and tweeter to your driver side ear and enter it in inches. Afterwards you will need a vocal track that has the singer dead center. You turn off the tweets and play around with the inches numbers until the vocals is coming from dead center of the vehicle right above the head unit and below the rear view mirror. Then turn the mid off and do the same thing to the tweets.

After that you will set the 16 band EQ, You will need to learn what each band controls and how it sounds with the frequencies reduced or boosted and build your own curve according to your listening preferences.

If you are not ready to spend 4+ hours on getting sh*t **** perfect. Then dont bother and just stick to a basic head unit with basic bass, mid and treble adjustments.

For the record its not a waste of time, you just arent tackling it right and its not just clear sound you are going for, its MAJESTIC sound. BIG FKING DIFFERENCE between loud and clear vs LOUD AND MAJESTIC. Loud and clear can be done easily by almost any noob. Actual sound stage and imaging along with bringing out real detail and realism in the music while maintaining loud volume and clarity is next level stuff that you cant possibly comprehend.

 
more voltage doesnt always mean its superior, it does not mean your sh*t will sound any better either it just means you have different gain settings, thats all. That clarion is junk IMO
well if its like that, I dont think you would like the 80 prs because it has a pretty steep learning curve. You should stick with alpine for your next build and keep it simple.

Active capable head units are for guys who are willing to get down and dirty with the tuning utilizing every aspect and feature of the head unit. Its not that you buy the 80 prs, set gains and expect it to sound good.

There's a whole process to utilizing the 80 prs. AKA proper RCA wiring, proper amount of amplifier channels to mid and tweeter along with proper positioning. Then change the head unit to active mode then onto tuning.

You gain match the tweets and the mids first, turn off the sub

You set proper crossover points and slopes, this process alone requires 1+ hours of listening and testing and adjusting.

Then time align the drivers for your front driver listening postion, first start off measuring the distance from each mid and tweeter to your driver side ear and enter it in inches. Afterwards you will need a vocal track that has the singer dead center. You turn off the tweets and play around with the inches numbers until the vocals is coming from dead center of the vehicle right above the head unit and below the rear view mirror. Then turn the mid off and do the same thing to the tweets.

After that you will set the 16 band EQ, You will need to learn what each band controls and how it sounds with the frequencies reduced or boosted and build your own curve according to your listening preferences.

If you are not ready to spend 4+ hours on getting sh*t **** perfect. Then dont bother and just stick to a basic head unit with basic bass, mid and treble adjustments.

For the record its not a waste of time, you just arent tackling it right and its not just clear sound you are going for, its MAJESTIC sound. BIG FKING DIFFERENCE between loud and clear vs LOUD AND MAJESTIC. Loud and clear can be done easily by almost any noob. Actual sound stage and imaging along with bringing out real detail and realism in the music while maintaining loud volume and clarity is next level stuff that you cant possibly comprehend.
4+ hours? psh. How about 4+ years and never being satisfied...

 
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