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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8524381" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>more voltage doesnt always mean its superior, it does not mean your sh*t will sound any better either it just means you have different gain settings, thats all. That clarion is junk IMO</p><p></p><p>well if its like that, I dont think you would like the 80 prs because it has a pretty steep learning curve. You should stick with alpine for your next build and keep it simple.</p><p></p><p>Active capable head units are for guys who are willing to get down and dirty with the tuning utilizing every aspect and feature of the head unit. Its not that you buy the 80 prs, set gains and expect it to sound good.</p><p></p><p>There's a whole process to utilizing the 80 prs. AKA proper RCA wiring, proper amount of amplifier channels to mid and tweeter along with proper positioning. Then change the head unit to active mode then onto tuning.</p><p></p><p>You gain match the tweets and the mids first, turn off the sub</p><p></p><p>You set proper crossover points and slopes, this process alone requires 1+ hours of listening and testing and adjusting.</p><p></p><p>Then time align the drivers for your front driver listening postion, first start off measuring the distance from each mid and tweeter to your driver side ear and enter it in inches. Afterwards you will need a vocal track that has the singer dead center. You turn off the tweets and play around with the inches numbers until the vocals is coming from dead center of the vehicle right above the head unit and below the rear view mirror. Then turn the mid off and do the same thing to the tweets.</p><p></p><p>After that you will set the 16 band EQ, You will need to learn what each band controls and how it sounds with the frequencies reduced or boosted and build your own curve according to your listening preferences.</p><p></p><p>If you are not ready to spend 4+ hours on getting sh*t **** perfect. Then dont bother and just stick to a basic head unit with basic bass, mid and treble adjustments.</p><p></p><p>For the record its not a waste of time, you just arent tackling it right and its not just clear sound you are going for, its MAJESTIC sound. BIG FKING DIFFERENCE between loud and clear vs LOUD AND MAJESTIC. Loud and clear can be done easily by almost any noob. Actual sound stage and imaging along with bringing out real detail and realism in the music while maintaining loud volume and clarity is next level stuff that you cant possibly comprehend.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8524381, member: 650438"] more voltage doesnt always mean its superior, it does not mean your sh*t will sound any better either it just means you have different gain settings, thats all. That clarion is junk IMO well if its like that, I dont think you would like the 80 prs because it has a pretty steep learning curve. You should stick with alpine for your next build and keep it simple. Active capable head units are for guys who are willing to get down and dirty with the tuning utilizing every aspect and feature of the head unit. Its not that you buy the 80 prs, set gains and expect it to sound good. There's a whole process to utilizing the 80 prs. AKA proper RCA wiring, proper amount of amplifier channels to mid and tweeter along with proper positioning. Then change the head unit to active mode then onto tuning. You gain match the tweets and the mids first, turn off the sub You set proper crossover points and slopes, this process alone requires 1+ hours of listening and testing and adjusting. Then time align the drivers for your front driver listening postion, first start off measuring the distance from each mid and tweeter to your driver side ear and enter it in inches. Afterwards you will need a vocal track that has the singer dead center. You turn off the tweets and play around with the inches numbers until the vocals is coming from dead center of the vehicle right above the head unit and below the rear view mirror. Then turn the mid off and do the same thing to the tweets. After that you will set the 16 band EQ, You will need to learn what each band controls and how it sounds with the frequencies reduced or boosted and build your own curve according to your listening preferences. If you are not ready to spend 4+ hours on getting sh*t **** perfect. Then dont bother and just stick to a basic head unit with basic bass, mid and treble adjustments. For the record its not a waste of time, you just arent tackling it right and its not just clear sound you are going for, its MAJESTIC sound. BIG FKING DIFFERENCE between loud and clear vs LOUD AND MAJESTIC. Loud and clear can be done easily by almost any noob. Actual sound stage and imaging along with bringing out real detail and realism in the music while maintaining loud volume and clarity is next level stuff that you cant possibly comprehend. [/QUOTE]
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