Which setup will get louder?

I just got a little money from selling a few things and im buying a completely new setup, looking for you guys opinions on which one of these will get louder, not so much worried about sq either. Box space isnt an issue, so each set of woofers will be placed in the optimum enclosure //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Each set will be pushed to right at their RMS, but im stuck between the higher power of the REs, or the higher displacement of the Mach 5s? After everything gets here im gonna attempt to build a ported box myself after studying a bit, with the help of one of the guys i work with whos a box builder.

Car electrical - I think all this should be sufficient?

Big 3 done in 4 gauge

Everlast batt up front

2 runs of 4 gauge to trunk into distro block

stock 100amp alt

Ive got a yellowtop laying around i might have to add too

2 RE 15" SE's (DVC 4) on an AP1500.1 OR Rockford p1000. The ap1500 is cheaper though

1500rms@1 ohm to 2 15"s

Or

2 Mach 5 18"s (SVC 4) on an Alpine M1000

1000rms@ 2 ohms to 2 18"s

 
Ive ran 800rms before with no dimming or issues, i also have an extra alt laying around (100 amp) so if needed i could put that inplace of my smog pump considering i dont have one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif What all is involved in adding an alternator? im assuming just running the power wires to the batt?

as for the amp, i can get the m1000 for relatively cheap since i work at best buy, so i might go ahead and pick that up, what would you guys suggest i tune them at? listen to alot of rap (my ****** young jeezy) mostly, sometimes rock but im not worried about sq. gonna try and put them in the loudest enclosure possible. im prolly gonna go with about a foot over what the reccomendation is for cubes, unless someone has input on that.

 
Ive ran 800rms before with no dimming or issues, i also have an extra alt laying around (100 amp) so if needed i could put that inplace of my smog pump considering i dont have one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif What all is involved in adding an alternator? im assuming just running the power wires to the batt?


as for the amp, i can get the m1000 for relatively cheap since i work at best buy, so i might go ahead and pick that up, what would you guys suggest i tune them at? listen to alot of rap (my ****** young jeezy) mostly, sometimes rock but im not worried about sq. gonna try and put them in the loudest enclosure possible. im prolly gonna go with about a foot over what the reccomendation is for cubes, unless someone has input on that.
I'm about 99% sure there is much much more involved with adding another alt. than just wiring it in. Otherwise people would be adding more alts left and right, instead of batteries.

Which Mach 5 subs are you getting? You didn't specify. The IXL's are 1000 RMS so I'm sure not those, so I'll assume the MJ's. Those are 700 RMS, so you'd want an amp that does at least 1400 RMS, which the alpine doesn't. Kicker zx1500.1 maybe?

Stick with the recommended enclosure size if you are going to be giving them the RMS - it is what is recommended for a reason. If you want to be as loud as possible tune to 38-40 hz...but then you'll miss a lot of lows. I'd recommend a 35 hz tuning to have the best mix of both worlds

 
I said a foot over to compensate for the displacement of the subs, since the displacement of 18s would be about a foot or so. was just guessing at that. and yes its the MJ series. Idk about the kicker amp, i was looking to spend Unless there is a lower end alternative in my ballpark

As for the alt, im not sure about any of that either, i was just taking a guess. Ill have to read up on dc voltage shit and see how the parrallel and series wiring works with batts and all that. What about a type of isolated charging system/battery setup just for the amp power? My alt is pretty simple, has a power wire to the battery, and a plug with 2 wires (which im assuming is the voltage sensor for the dash) going to it, and thats it. Im gonna do some research and see what i can come up with though, so dont think im right about any of that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
A note on installing 2 alternators

WARNING: Ill say this first and that is i am no expert, so this explination on what might be required might not be 100% accurate, and the last thing i will note is that i have never installed 2 alternators.

Here we go,

alternators make electricity through using a magnetic field, the strength of this magnetic field is effected by the current draw on the alternator, the more draw there is the stronger the field is, the less draw there is the weaker the field is. The draw on the alternator is controlled by the voltage regulator. Im not going to draw you a picture but image if you had 100 marbles on each side of a line, these marbles represent a balance in the electrical system, when the system is equal on both sides, the voltage regulator switches the alternator to a circuit with no load on it, when the voltage is less than desired on the right side(current load side) it switches the alternator to that circuit and equals out the system.

In reality if you have any kind of amp in your car the alternator rarely if at all gets disconnected from the system. The voltage regulator still has to be there or else the system wouldnt work when you turned the music off, if it wasnt there over charging would occur and you would destroy your batteries.

Note: This is my idea on this, and if anyone more knowledgeable has some incite please correct me and add to it.

Ok so what you will need besides the second alternator and a place to mount it into the belt system.

Power cable running to the battery/batteries depending on how you do it

Voltage regulator

and you will want to wire it into the ignition system somehow.

 
Here we go,

alternators make electricity through using a magnetic field, the strength of this magnetic field is effected by the current draw on the alternator, the more draw there is the stronger the field is, the less draw there is the weaker the field is. The draw on the alternator is controlled by the voltage regulator. Im not going to draw you a picture but image if you had 100 marbles on each side of a line, these marbles represent a balance in the electrical system, when the system is equal on both sides, the voltage regulator switches the alternator to a circuit with no load on it, when the voltage is less than desired on the right side(current load side) it switches the alternator to that circuit and equals out the system.

In reality if you have any kind of am in your car the alternator rarely if at all gets disconnected from the system. The voltage regulator still has to be there or else the system wouldnt work when you turned the music off, if it wasnt there over charging would occur and you would destroy your batteries.
wtf are you talking about

Ive ran 800rms before with no dimming or issues, i also have an extra alt laying around (100 amp) so if needed i could put that inplace of my smog pump considering i dont have one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif What all is involved in adding an alternator? im assuming just running the power wires to the batt?
You do not need a 2 alt setup for 1000rms, I can run 4kw with a D3100, and a yellowtop under the hood and stay at 13 volts. Throw that alt idea out of your head now, for a simple 1kw all you would need is literally like an hc600 or hc800.

 
i didnt think i did, but i figured just incase. I guess people here upgrade alts and shit just incase they upgrade later or something? Ive seen setups on here with like 1-1.5k running HO alternators and shit. Yea but anyway thats good i dont have to do that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif How about just adding a yellowtop in the trunk? Trying to stay on a budget here

 
i didnt think i did, but i figured just incase. I guess people here upgrade alts and shit just incase they upgrade later or something? Ive seen setups on here with like 1-1.5k running HO alternators and shit. Yea but anyway thats good i dont have to do that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif How about just adding a yellowtop in the trunk? Trying to stay on a budget here
A yellowtop in the trunk would be more than enough and you would probably be fine for 1500 RMS easy.

More power at 1 ohm is normally cheaper than the equivalent at 2 ohms, for obvious reasons. If you are trying to stay

 
i didnt think i did, but i figured just incase. I guess people here upgrade alts and shit just incase they upgrade later or something? Ive seen setups on here with like 1-1.5k running HO alternators and shit. Yea but anyway thats good i dont have to do that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif How about just adding a yellowtop in the trunk? Trying to stay on a budget here
You might not even need that, just hook everything up and see for yourself if you get dimming issues. Only then after upgrading grounds if your still getting dimming issues, should you need to get another battery. Now dont try to do this with 2kw+ or anything like that, just trying to help you otu since your on a budget.

 
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