Which comes first? Upgraded alternator or multiple batteries?

ILuvBoost

Junior Member
I'm having an issue where my amp and sub are heating up badly in a short amount of time. I've done some investigating and I've come to the conclusion that it is partially or fully due to the fact that my voltage is constantly dropping below 12(tested at neg/pos terminals on the amp) while at normal listening volume.

So my question is.. Would I be better off getting a second battery for my trunk, or should I get a H/O alternator? Or maybe even just a better battery than my current one? Its a 1200 watt rms system running 4 gauge power wire.

I talked to a guy today at a local car audio place and he in short, told me that I would not benefit from the "big 3". Something to do with the type of alternator it is, and the fact that my alternator has multiple wires? I don't remember everything he said, but it seemed to make sense at the time.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

In your guys' opinions, in what order should I do these upgrades (if any)? Even if the low voltage is not the culprit to my over heating problem, I still need to fix it, because my lights are dimming and I know it's got to be making my amp work harder than it should.

 
First i would make sure your not severly clipping your amplifier, thats what most likely the biggest cause of the heat issue if your input sensitivity isnt set correctly. this in turn would up your voltage drop

 
i'd like some info about this too, I've got two bluetop optima batts in my car, one in the boot and one under the bonnet, linked and fused at both ends with only 4 gauge cable (pos to pos battery) then earths from batt to body at both ends. now my alt is only 70amp. I have a kx1200.1 and a kx600.4 and the car is a VS Statesman 5Leter v8.

am I killing my alt?

 
I'm having an issue where my amp and sub are heating up badly in a short amount of time. I've done some investigating and I've come to the conclusion that it is partially or fully due to the fact that my voltage is constantly dropping below 12(tested at neg/pos terminals on the amp) while at normal listening volume.
So my question is.. Would I be better off getting a second battery for my trunk, or should I get a H/O alternator? Or maybe even just a better battery than my current one? Its a 1200 watt rms system running 4 gauge power wire.

I talked to a guy today at a local car audio place and he in short, told me that I would not benefit from the "big 3". Something to do with the type of alternator it is, and the fact that my alternator has multiple wires? I don't remember everything he said, but it seemed to make sense at the time.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

In your guys' opinions, in what order should I do these upgrades (if any)? Even if the low voltage is not the culprit to my over heating problem, I still need to fix it, because my lights are dimming and I know it's got to be making my amp work harder than it should.
What kind of car do you have?The big 3 is a good place to start.

 
Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes & Speaker Wire Size and Length

The Big 3 is a perfect placve to start as Jes has stated,as well as the Professional of the vid.Running 4ga,and the wattage,is pretty well borderlined by the chart here,to increase the size of wiring for the supply needed.2 ga is recommended,yet for the price of 2ga,0ga is pretty much a great upgrade for the money well spent, or even make another run of 4 ga,one for ea amp fused,will be suffecient.By raising the amps off the Flat mounted surface,with a few washers under each mount will be easy enough/cheap enough to get some kind of airflow/circulation for help with cooling,and a possible good CFM fan,for circulation.

 
Make sure your Ground wire is in tact,/not loose,and proper Sized wiring/supply the amps are recommended for,for both the supply,as well as the ground wire.Gains should be set properly,not maxed out/clipping,Read up on Setting your gains properly.Id also check your battery/alt at a auto parts ,as they generally do for FREE.Your voltage.You may also have to step up to a good AGM battery,rather than a Stock wet cell

 
Make sure your Ground wire is in tact,/not loose,and proper Sized wiring/supply the amps are recommended for,for both the supply,as well as the ground wire.Gains should be set properly,not maxed out/clipping,Read up on Setting your gains properly.Id also check your battery/alt at a auto parts ,as they generally do for FREE.Your voltage.You may also have to step up to a good AGM battery,rather than a Stock wet cell

 
so is it worth me pulling all my 4 gauge out and replacing it with 0 gauge? and upgrading my alt? will it be a noticeable difference? and sould I even bother?
Its worth the effort if you are wanting a High powered system,of above 1200 watts.Then again, you may be able to get by with another run of 4 ga fused /one for ea amp even.I bite the bullet, and just place 0ga run in ea of my vehicles for future supply needed, as well as a good AGM under the hood,and the Big three min,and generally do just fine ,and maybe adding an extra AGM batt in the rear,before deciding on an HO alt,and my voltage output.

 
cheers boss
Optima 34M Blue Top Marine Battery

I've got two of these, are they no-good?
I was running two redtops,and had issues with them,running low voltage,with an ho alt(200)with the Big 3,and 0ga run.They were BNew, and I began to have issues with the charging.Bnew batts,were causing my voltage issues, and dumped my alt in the process(ruined my regulator).Everything was new.2 sets of new batts, and one alt.I then replaced with a new alt, and two new Orileys AGM batts,and have been just fine for approx going on 2nd year.The optimas that I had were just not good quality anymore,bought from two different places.Ill never buy another Optimus battery again,as they cost me some time and an expensive(very expensive lesson.

 
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ILuvBoost

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