Which battery

[mikeysheff12]

You do not need any distribution block. You will replace your front battery with this fuse block (or anything functionally identical) which will act as the positive terminal in the engine bay. The side of the fuse block with the numbers is the "input" which is where you connect the alternator hot wire. Everything connected to the factory negative terminal must be connected to the chassis/block, which becomes your ground up front.

View attachment 36158
(there will be one more wire connected to the input (or output with another fuse), the prefused one that you mentioned earlier)

I can elaborate further if needed. We could do a voice call too if that's easier.

If you haven't done something like this before it can be hard to wrap your head around it at first.

I do understand stand it to a point. I have 4 wires from by original positive terminal that need to go into the fuse block (2 of them are 1/0) and then only 1 1/0 wire leading out. Then my negative terminal I need another fuse block I think to put 1 1/0 and another wire (4 gauge I think) into and have 1 1/0 coming out of there going to my trunk.

A voice call might be best since we’re talking back and forth a lot. This is only the second day trying to understand all of this and how to do it.

I posted on another forum and somebody said this (picture below) I don’t have a voltage management system connected to my battery but I do believe I have a voltage regulator that is somewhat inside of my alternator, I’ve heard that would change up how I would have to wire it up.

 

[Jonnyswboy]

I do understand stand it to a point. I have 4 wires from by original positive terminal that need to go into the fuse block (2 of them are 1/0) and then only 1 1/0 wire leading out. Then my negative terminal I need another fuse block I think to put 1 1/0 and another wire (4 gauge I think) into and have 1 1/0 coming out of there going to my trunk.

A voice call might be best since we’re talking back and forth a lot. This is only the second day trying to understand all of this and how to do it.

I posted on another forum and somebody said this (picture below) I don’t have a voltage management system connected to my battery but I do believe I have a voltage regulator that is somewhat inside of my alternator, I’ve heard that would change up how I would have to wire it up.View attachment 36164

Yeah PM me your discord or phone number and we can chat sometime tonight or another day. You do not need a second fuse block for the negative terminal. I will help explain why over a call.

Snowdrifter is talking about Lithium Titanate or other chemistries/cells that require a higher charging voltage (scibs, yinlong, lishen, shenqgquan, etc).

Headway cells are Lifepo4 and are happy charging at stock voltages in 4s (3.2v x 4 cells = 12.8v) configuration. Stock lead acid batteries nominal voltage is ~12.8v, so a 4s headway bank is a drop in solution and are even compatible with normal AGM and lead acid batteries (doing this is still dumb though). So you would wanna charge from 14.2v-14.8v.

Where as Yinlong (LTO) like I have is normally ran in 6s (2.3v x 6 cells = 13.8v). Would want to charge from 15.2v-15.7v

So if you ever see yourself getting a high output alternator or new voltage regulator down the road, you might want to do it now and just get a Lithium Titanate (LTO) bank like Scibs and charge ~15.5v. If you ever see yourself going above like 4kW RMS in the future this might be wise.

 

[mikeysheff12]

Yeah PM me your discord or phone number and we can chat sometime tonight or another day. You do not need a second fuse block for the negative terminal. I will help explain why over a call.

Snowdrifter is talking about Lithium Titanate or other chemistries/cells that require a higher charging voltage (scibs, yinlong, lishen, shenqgquan, etc).

Headway cells are Lifepo4 and are happy charging at stock voltages in 4s (3.2v x 4 cells = 12.8v) configuration. Stock lead acid batteries nominal voltage is ~12.8v, so a 4s headway bank is a drop in solution and are even compatible with normal AGM and lead acid batteries (doing this is still dumb though). So you would wanna charge from 14.2v-14.8v.

Where as Yinlong (LTO) like I have is normally ran in 6s (2.3v x 6 cells = 13.8v). Would want to charge from 15.2v-15.7v

So if you ever see yourself getting a high output alternator or new voltage regulator down the road, you might want to do it now and just get a Lithium Titanate (LTO) bank like Scibs and charge ~15.5v. If you ever see yourself going above like 4kW RMS in the future this might be wise.

I do plan on getting a HO but that’s a bit far in the future. I won’t be going over 4kW anytime soon at all. My next plan for a build is a 3kW rms but still, that’s kind of far ahead. When the time comes, I’ll build a new bank if need be but that does make a ton of sense, thank you