When Picking Drivers?

The sheer displacement advantage the xxx has over the btl, and the lower fs, should equate to better low-end response. If a comparison shows otherwise, its likely due to un-even conditions (like more power to the btl, as mentioned). Otherwise, there is no way a btl, in a higher tuned box, should offer more low end output than a sub with a lower fs, greater displacement potential, in a lower tuned box.

 
Well the BTL has a much stronger motor which will usually cause the extra bump around tuning, even if the enclosure is tuned below the Fs of the driver. After all, it's just the sub's resonance in a free-air environment. When you put the sub in a sealed enclosure, the Fc (new point of resonance for the sub/enclosure combo), that isn't the limitation of it's low end capabilities. Also, don't forget that the BTL has way more throw available than the 16mm of xmax. I believe the suspension capabilities are closer to 30mm.

To get a better view of what I'm talking about around tuning, you can check out either one of these:

60139388nr9.png


And for those that cry about theoretical/anechoic responses being completely useless, you can use Loyd's in car measured response in the modeled enclosure:

btl.gif


 
To the OP

First thing is SPL vs. SQ - I want a woofer that will get loud and sound okay, but getting loud is more important.

Then to determine which subs can accomplish this, I look at who is using what, what subs are putting up decent numbers, and what subs are generally accepted as having good build quality, etc - the forum boner subs.

To get me to buy your sub, I have to see that it performs well and lives up to the standards of the other products that it is competing with for my dollars. This means giving it out to people on the forum to review so they can report to you and to us. Like with the DP - Chad reviewed it, he reported the results. They were great results with a 12, and I would buy an 18 if I was looking for a single sub set-up to run off my 2500 watts.

 
Well the BTL has a much stronger motor which will usually cause the extra bump around tuning, even if the enclosure is tuned below the Fs of the driver. After all, it's just the sub's resonance in a free-air environment. When you put the sub in a sealed enclosure, the Fc (new point of resonance for the sub/enclosure combo), that isn't the limitation of it's low end capabilities. Also, don't forget that the BTL has way more throw available than the 16mm of xmax. I believe the suspension capabilities are closer to 30mm.
To get a better view of what I'm talking about around tuning, you can check out either one of these:

60139388nr9.png


And for those that cry about theoretical/anechoic responses being completely useless, you can use Loyd's in car measured response in the modeled enclosure:

btl.gif
ayy i forgot to mention mine is a fully loaded daily options BTL.

specs on the site i believe are for the stock one. not sure how the T/S parameters change when all optioned out, but im sure they will change some as fully loaded your up the xmax to 26mm. wouldnt be surprised if FS went down either.

both subs were in a 98 ford explorer sport. both enclosures were sub back port back, and port was on the right hand side of the enclosures

4.1 @ 29 for the 15" xxx off of a PA 3000db @ 1 ohm (supposedly does around 1.5kw at 11.1 volts at 1.27ohm. but my personal electrical that this amp was hooked to, when we swapped it in, does not drop nearly that low)

4.5 @ 33 for the 15" btl off of a kx2500.1 @ 2 ohm, birthsheet says 2.9kw @ 2 ohm @ 14v (also used this amp for the xxx at one point but it was too much and bottomed out the xxx)

 
To the OPFirst thing is SPL vs. SQ - I want a woofer that will get loud and sound okay, but getting loud is more important.

Then to determine which subs can accomplish this, I look at who is using what, what subs are putting up decent numbers, and what subs are generally accepted as having good build quality, etc - the forum boner subs.

To get me to buy your sub, I have to see that it performs well and lives up to the standards of the other products that it is competing with for my dollars. This means giving it out to people on the forum to review so they can report to you and to us. Like with the DP - Chad reviewed it, he reported the results. They were great results with a 12, and I would buy an 18 if I was looking for a single sub set-up to run off my 2500 watts.
that is true too. you definitely need reviews on it from respected people who will give an honest opinion of the performance of the driver.

BTW hope IA doesnt mind we kinda took this one off topic, i figured it was okay since the topic seemed pretty much dead.

give me the word, and ill remove my posts from this thread //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Well the BTL has a much stronger motor which will usually cause the extra bump around tuning, even if the enclosure is tuned below the Fs of the driver. After all, it's just the sub's resonance in a free-air environment. When you put the sub in a sealed enclosure, the Fc (new point of resonance for the sub/enclosure combo), that isn't the limitation of it's low end capabilities. Also, don't forget that the BTL has way more throw available than the 16mm of xmax. I believe the suspension capabilities are closer to 30mm.
To get a better view of what I'm talking about around tuning, you can check out either one of these:

60139388nr9.png


And for those that cry about theoretical/anechoic responses being completely useless, you can use Loyd's in car measured response in the modeled enclosure:

btl.gif
Id prefer a sub that stays linear while attempting that much excursion. Stating the sub's xmech really doesn't help much, unless we are talking raw SPL burps rather than something we want to actually listen to.
 
I pick a sub based on the best rhyme I can come up w/ for it's name. Ex... The btl is ghey as hell/ Don't be a *** buy a mag/ Youre being a jew if you buy a Q/ Youre not cooler then me, I have a MT/ Phoenix Gold is way too old....

 
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