What's wrong with my System??? JVC Amp/Infinty Speakers

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teamford96

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Hi,

I have a F150 pick up and I recently added an amplifier to the stock Ford CD/radio along with (4) new speakers. The power protector lamp on the amp turn's on when I turn it up and cut's out. I have to keep the level turned way down to about 25% and the bass boost at like 50% It's still loud, but I was hoping to get some kinda bass out of these speakers. I'm kinda new to car stereo stuff. What am I doing wrong?? Any suggestions??

The the Amp is:

JVC Arsenal KS-AR7004

•800 Watts Max. Power

•Stackable 4-Way Installation

•100 Watts RMS Power x 4 at 4 ohms, 140 watts RMS Power x 4 at 2 ohms

•Pulse Width Modulated MOSFET Power Supply

•Frequency Response (0, -3dB) 5 - 50,000Hz

•Variable High Pass Filter (-18/dBoct) 30-500Hz

•Variable Low Pass Filter (-18dB/oct) 30-500Hz

•Subsonic Filter 20Hz (-12dB/oct)

•Variable Bass Boost (0-18dB @ 45Hz)

•Tri-Mode Operation

•Variable Speaker Level Input

•Stackable 4-Way Installation

•Blue Illumination

•Gold Plated RCA Input and Output(Pass-Through)

•Angle Mount Gold-Plated Power and Speaker Terminals

•Anti-Pop & Protection Circuitry

•Top-Mounted Large Rotary Controls

•Two Year Warranty

The speakers are: (4)

Infinity Kappa 682.9cf (6x8)

Power Handling, RMS 100 Watts

Power Handling, Peak 300 Watts

Sensitivity 94dB

Frequency Response 40Hz - 25kHz

Mounting Depth 2-7/16"

Impedance 2 Ohms

 
all it takes is one wire strand shorting out to cause a problem. there are connections at the speakers and connections at the amps. all of these should be checked. there should only be one wire in each terminal on the amp. those speakers are 2 ohm, the amp can only power one per channel.

if you can see any bare copper, make better connections. at the speakers - female disconnect terminals with heat shrink. at the amp, spade terminals with heat shrink.

you don't need bass boost, i agree. use the EQ in the radio.

on a related note - make sure you have a good seal between the new speaker and the factory door panel. weatherstripping foam can help make that seal. without that seal you'll lose midbass response due to cancellation.

make sure your ground is solid, to bare metal.

 
Thanks for the tips. I can turn up the head unit and it's very loud, loud enough for me. The issue is when I turn up the amp level past 1/4 or so and turn up the bass boost. If I turn the bass boost down I can turn the amp up to about 1/2. Does that still mean a wire is crossed, or is it that I should be running only 2 speakers, one on each channel?? I was under the impression that since the amp is rated at 140Watts X4 at 2 ohms that I would be able to run 4 100 Watt RMS speakers with out a problem. Should I disconnect the 2 back speakers and put the two front's on a channel for each of them?

 
Thanks for the tips. I can turn up the head unit and it's very loud, loud enough for me. The issue is when I turn up the amp level past 1/4 or so and turn up the bass boost. If I turn the bass boost down I can turn the amp up to about 1/2. Does that still mean a wire is crossed, or is it that I should be running only 2 speakers, one on each channel?? I was under the impression that since the amp is rated at 140Watts X4 at 2 ohms that I would be able to run 4 100 Watt RMS speakers with out a problem. Should I disconnect the 2 back speakers and put the two front's on a channel for each of them?
did you have a car audio place install it for you?

 
well regardless if you did or not take it to a audio shop and have them set the nobs on your amp and then after that DO NOT TOUCH THEM! turning the boost and gains up is terrible for your amp and potentially for your speakers. let them set them right and then dont do anything to them

 
I installed it myself. It seemed simple enough. I'll run it to one of those audio places once it warms up. It's in storage for the winter right now. Thanks for the help:cool:

 
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teamford96

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