whats a good budget 4 channal amp to run?

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

SSA Store - US Acoustics Barbara Ann 4 channel amplifierThat ppi amp sounds bad in comparison to any decent class ab

It lacks detail but for average joes and bassheads, they wont notice. Did a swap again to the ppi and nobody noticed. Its not junk or bad sounding, it just doesnt sound as good as a nice class a/b, its raw spl output is leagues above most class a/bs twice its cost though.

 

[ekah]

Papermaker always coming in clutch every time lol im torn between the ppi and the acoustics barbara and the other dudes links iv never heard of the brand but the price sounds ideal lol

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

We are not just some dude, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Reason no one has heard this brand is because the manufacture just launched it late last year.

They used to OEM for car manufactures for long time, close to 25 years but have decided to stop doing it and start manufacturing their own designs.

Pretty soon, we will get their new DSP amplifiers which have no settings.. All controls for the amplifier are done at the driver seat from your phone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Pure wireless.

They are sound quality based company bringing nothing but quality amplifiers and components into the market.

 

[kiteman]

I have the PPI 900.4 and it is very solid.

 

[ekah]

Where's a link to buy? They use paypal?

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

 

[blenahan]

Okay so I really don't mean to be stealing your thread but I've been looking for a new amp and speakers and I'm just a little confused. The JBL speakers that ekah is planning to get are rated for 90watts rms per speaker. But the PPI 900.4 is rated at 225watts x 4channels at 2 ohms. Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't that mean that 225 watts come out of each channel? Or am I way off...

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

That's what it's rated to do but it won't happen due to reactance. That's why it's safe to use Program power to match it with an amplifier.

That rating on the JBL is up to 270w.

 

[blenahan]

That's what it's rated to do but it won't happen due to reactance. That's why it's safe to use Program power to match it with an amplifier.
That rating on the JBL is up to 270w.

The program power is the peak rms i assume? Why can you use that rather than the continuous rms power? I thought you should always match amps to the continuous rating so that you don't put too much strain on the speakers.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

There are too many rule of thumbs.

What i gave you is a rule of thumb as well.

What if i told you back 7yrs ago, i used to run 21,000w on 3 1500w subs?

Now, without getting into technical detail..

The reason why it's not good idea to match rms of amp to rms of speakers is people tend to always clip their amplifier because it's not enough power.. which leads to damage.

Oversizing the amplifier will ensure a rich, clean signal so there should be no need to overwork the amplifier.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

The program power is the peak rms i assume? Why can you use that rather than the continuous rms power? I thought you should always match amps to the continuous rating so that you don't put too much strain on the speakers.

there's always impedance rise along with music being dynamic. You'll never see a true 90 watts to the speaker if you have a 90 x 4 amp because you arent playing 0 db 1000hz sine waves, most music is waaay below that.

Sure rated power is enough to push speakers but when you have an amp that can do a lot more but you set it to the point where it never clips or works hard, you'll have a much happier system overall. An amp sitting back barely doing anything vs an overworked heated up amp, which do you think lasts longer and sounds better?

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

That's a lot of power, for sure, not something I'd recommend for a novice, but if you have half a brain that amp will work fine with those speakers.

You can just run the gain way low if you're concerned about too much power.

When good companies put out power ratings they are saying the speaker can sustain that amount of power continuously and indefinitely.

Music power is FAR from continuous. If you could measure that 225w/ch amp playing music at full volume (pre-clipping) for more than a couple of seconds you'd see the average power would be much lower than 225w. It would be much lower than 110w. Roughly, you can figure average continuous music power to be about 1/3 of rated rms power. Obviously, that will vary a few percent based on music type, but it's a reasonable estimate.

So - assuming you're not blasting it non-stop there's a pretty good chance your speakers will be seeing ~50w a lot of the time.

For a novice, a 75-100w/ch amp would be the standard recommendation, but for someone that understands what's going on 150-200 isn't unreasonable -- 225 is clearly on the high side.

Set it up right, use some common sense with the volume knob, and enjoy.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

So if I just use 2 comps in the front then just use two channels on the four channel? Would the back seat riders hear it as good as I would being in the front? And the deal that you're introducing to me is legit? Link?
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

the people in the backseat pay for the car?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Can i throw your idea into another twist?
We are offering a new brand in the US market practically AT COST.

They are purely sound quality based so these prices will probably not be seen again..

Their 100.4 is a 560w amplifier with dynamics at full THD above 400w PER CHANNEL.

That doesn't mean you'll get a 1600w amplifier. That means your dynamic headroom is so high, the clarity is unreal.

They go for $259 but because we are moving them AT COST to flood the market with them, the cost is only $145 shipped.

Also have 6.5" components almost 50% off as well.

I wouldn't miss this deal.. IT ends end of this month.

links money?