Just bought this kicker sub. The amp i have is trash. Whats a good recomended amp that that wont over heat or protect? On me

[Swole]

Need a amp that will do good with this sub. It's a 500 watt 15 inch kicker. Any recommendations? The amp I have now is a 2200 watt amp but it's not a good brand. And keeps over heating and going into protect. Says it's a 2200 watt amp. But I'm calling bull shi*. I can't figure out how to upload a photo of the sub so here's a amazon link to the one I purchased.

Amazon product ASIN B01F2SNCNQ

Click to read more...

 

[spokey9]

Alpine MRV-M500 | 500W V-Power Digital Monoblock Amplifier

Alpine MRV-M500 • 500W V-Power Series Class D Monoblock Digital Amplifier • RMS: 300W x 1 @ 4 ohms 500W x 1 @ 2 ohms • Total Peak Power: 1000W • CEA-2006 Compliant Amplifier • 4-Channel Speaker-Level Inputs • Heavy Duty Aluminum Alloy Heat-Sink • Dimensions: 7-7/8"W x 7-7/8"L x 2-3/16"H

www.sonicelectronix.com

That'll run it

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

This would be a great amp to run that sub @4 ohms mono, with some room for an upgrade if you decide to run another @2ohms as a pair. Im running a 2k atm on a pair of 1k tens @2ohm. in 4.0 @32htz dammned good amp for the $

CT-1500.1D // 1500 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-1500.1D is a compact 1500 watt class d monoblock car subwoofer amplifier. The 1-ohm stable mono amp features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Need a amp that will do good with this sub. It's a 500 watt 15 inch kicker. Any recommendations? The amp I have now is a 2200 watt amp but it's not a good brand. And keeps over heating and going into protect. Says it's a 2200 watt amp. But I'm calling bull shi*. I can't figure out how to upload a photo of the sub so here's a amazon link to the one I purchased.

Amazon product ASIN B01F2SNCNQ

Those C series subs are some really decent subs. Ive ran several 10s and 12s in the past and have helped put quite a few in

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Whats your budget? What size power supply wiring and ground wiring do you have installed atm? What vehicle? Trying to determine alt size and battery size of existing Stock if no upgrades were made)

 

[Swole]

Those C series subs are some really decent subs. Ive ran several 10s and 12s in the past and have helped put quite a few in

What amp you using?

 

[Swole]

Those C series subs are some really decent subs. Ive ran several 10s and 12s in the past and have helped put quite a few in

What amp you using?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What amp you using?

Im using a CT Sounds CT 2000.1 at the moment running @2ohms on a pair of S.Qubed 1200 RMS 10s in 4.0@32htz.. Ive used an Autotek BTS 7150 and a Hifonics Cyclops and Hercules VII on those older version Kickers and an Autotek mean Machine 99 ,66, 66HC, 44,and 44HC

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

This would be a great amp to run that sub @4 ohms mono, with some room for an upgrade if you decide to run another @2ohms as a pair. Im running a 2k atm on a pair of 1k tens @2ohm. in 4.0 @32htz dammned good amp for the $

CT-1500.1D // 1500 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-1500.1D is a compact 1500 watt class d monoblock car subwoofer amplifier. The 1-ohm stable mono amp features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

I was going to recommend the 1k version but for $40 more you will get the RMS you really need out of the 1500 and would be a great amp for future upgrade if you decide too. may wait and see if they have a 4th July sale and even get it at a much better price if you have time to wait on a Sale??

 

[Swole]

Whats your budget? What size power supply wiring and ground wiring do you have installed atm? What vehicle? Trying to determine alt size and battery size of existing Stock if no upgrades were made)

I'd like to keep it as cheap as possible lol. I just don't want it protecting. Here's my current amp. My wiring isn't an issue. I rechecked today to be sure I wasn't tripping. All fuses are good. I flip the switch to 12 dB and it bangs a few times and then protects. I keep it on 6db it's OK but it's not what I want. And if I turn it up to hi.. same issue. Red light. If I keep it low it just gets hot as shi*


Chevy cruze 2018

I bought the 1200 watt wiring kit. I think it was 8 Guage. Don't quote me on that..

It's the stock stereo. I'm using a speaker converter for the rca cables due to my back up camera and all kinds of other stuff I don't wanna mess up.

After reading the box... You think the amp is just a shi*ty amp? Or is it the speaker converter sending unwanted noise to the sub witch causes it to protect. Cause I can not get the words to stop playing. Even with the LPF all the way down. It's faint but the words still come through ever so slightly

 

[Swole]

Problem solved. loose speaker wire from sub box to sub. Over heating no longer an issue either

 

[Law luck 1]

Need a amp that will do good with this sub. It's a 500 watt 15 inch kicker. Any recommendations? The amp I have now is a 2200 watt amp but it's not a good brand. And keeps over heating and going into protect. Says it's a 2200 watt amp. But I'm calling bull shi*. I can't figure out how to upload a photo of the sub so here's a amazon link to the one I purchased.

Amazon product ASIN B01F2SNCNQ

Try gladen 1300 watt amp it was around 500 bucks.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Try gladen 1300 watt amp it was around 500 bucks.

 

[HardofWhoring]

FYI EVERYONE That was a 500w MAX sub. 200-300w RMS. ALL OF YOU overkilled it.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

HA, how do you overkill something? Jk...

The new stinger line of amps is a great product, strapable too. If you need to start slow, you can gradually add more as your build grows.