What order are the sub,amp,and deck hooked up in? Install noob, silverado truck.

[crewxp 10+ year member]

NEW: Got everything working except the bass. Barely any bass comes from the one bass I hooked up to the amp to test it. My rear factory speakers I left in makes more bass than the bass! Any advice?

Just real quick. Stupid question, but just want to confirm. I'm installing a stereo in a Chevy Silverado '07 Extended Cab for the first time.
Can anyone tell me the order Im supposed to hook everything up with? Is everything supposed to connect to the amp, or is only the subwoofer supposed to connect to the amp.

I was thinking it was either like this:

Head Unit->Amp->(Sub)&(Front Speakers)&(Rear Speakers)

http://zenn.tripod.com/jazz/system.gif

Or Like this:

Head Unit->(Front Speakers)&((Amp)->(Subwoofer)&(Rear Speakers)

http://www.nax.com.au/main/GraphicsFAQ/Layout4.PNG

The Deck has: Sub Out (Left and Right), Front Line Out (Left and Right).

The Amp has: Audio In (Left and Right), Speaker Out (Left and Right)

Thanks! Once I get the order setup and figure out how to remove the deck, and how to access the front speakers, I should be good!

Here are the parts I bought:

Parts:

500W Amplifier2x 6.5 240W Speaker

2x 10" RMS Single Loaded Sub

Antenna Adapter

Chevy Deck Converter

KDHDR60 JVC Single Deck Stereo

Deck Hookup Kit

Amp Power Kit

Click to read more...

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

well lets see

normally it is

head unit -rca's to-amplifier(s)-subwoofer and speakers connected to amplifier.

You can run speakers off the head unit if it has power

Head unit with speakers connected to it- rca's to amplifier- subwoofer connected to ampflier

very first thing I tend to do, plan out where I'm mounting the sub(s) and amplifier(s) then start running the amplifier wiring, it will take the most time //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[crewxp 10+ year member]

thanks. so from what you said, I can wire it both ways, but everything is usually just connected to the amp? It's a small area inside the truck, so hopefully I can find a place for it.

Is there a factor that comes in to play that affects which method I use?

I forgot to mention. The amp is a MRP-M500. Mono Power Amplifier with a channel 1 (left) and channel 2 (right) input in the back.

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

thanks. so from what you said, I can wire it both ways, but everything is usually just connected to the amp? It's a small area inside the truck, so hopefully I can find a place for it.
Is there a factor that comes in to play that affects which method I use?

I forgot to mention. The amp is a MRP-M500. Mono Power Amplifier with a channel 1 (left) and channel 2 (right) input in the back.

Yep, you just listed the deciding factor. Your amp is a class d mono subwoofer amp. Meaning only one channel, and with it being a class d subwoofer specific amp, the frequency range is very limited, usually up to about 150-200hz. You will need to wire the speakers to the head unit, and the subwoofer to the amp. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[crewxp 10+ year member]

okay cool. seems simple to hookup then. thanks a lot. it helps.

just a small question. what is the speaker out on the subwoofer for? only if my amp was more powerful, then I could use the speaker hookups on the sub?

 

[crewxp 10+ year member]

i got the door and deck off earlier today but it got dark, so i stopped. ill finish it tomorrow.

I have pictures of the parts im unsure of. mainly from my amp power kit and something called a stereo replacement interface. i REALLY wish there was someone near me that could do this, but sadly i live in an isolated area. anywho, let me see if i got this right. Correct me if im wrong if you dont mind.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0068.JPG

^Above is a picture of my amp kit. The blue wire looks like the wire I run to my battery from my amp. I'll most likely have to find the 'firewall' on the truck and drill a small hole, making sure i dont drill through the wrong spot. then hook it up. the clear wire looks like the remote wire? I run that from my deck to amp. The Black Kicker box goes in my hood somewhere, near the battery.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0069.JPG

^Above is the stereo replacement kit they gave me. Not sure what to do with this. My guess is that if something doesnt git behind the deck, use the connectors to convert it? There looks like a box with a speaker on it as well. weird.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0076.JPG

^Above is just for reference. Its the back of my deck. Not sure which one is the 'remote' though. Speakers hookup in the 16 pinned one. Sub in the sub out, nothing in the front line out. then hook whatever wires were hooked up in the factory deck into this one.

 

[crewxp 10+ year member]

Okay. I got everything almost installed. The only thing I have left to do is hookup the receiver, run the RCA cable to the amp, then run the RCA cable from the amp to the two subs.

I have a quick question though. Each sub has a left and right input. So thats four total RCA inputs (2 left and 2 right). The Receiver only has a left out and right out to the sub (Red and white). How do you suggest I hook them up?

is it okay to only use the left of the left subwoofer, and the right of the right sub? Or should I split them all.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

no the subs only use one set of preouts that amp has a preamp out to hookup to another amp. you dont need 2 sets of rca's to run two subs

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Pics of the subs, sub box, and any input terminals on that?

With that head unit you should have speaker outputs (white, white/black stripe, grey, grey with black stripe) for your front speakers (possibly violet and green as well for rears) and the RCA's and remote turn on (blue or blue/white stripe) to your amp.

In addition to RCA's and remote turn on your amp will need 12V going into it (from your battery). You will have to drill through the firewall most likely though some cars will have little rubber grommets up around the petals (some cars that have an automatic or standard option will have the hole in floor for a clutch in both models) or sometimes you can find a rubber grommet to cut and run the wire in that allready runs something in. You should use a rubber grommet though I've also had fine luck with making the hole a bit bigger than the wire and putting a big gob of silicone on either side (this is to prevent rubbing through the insulation on the wire and causing a fire).

Your amp will also need to be grounded. Find a good spot within 18" of the amp where you have some thick metal to bolt into (I often use a seatbelt bolt or similar), clean around the spot with some sandpaper until you get shiny metal and bolt the ground wire to that spot.

Now your amp should have + and - wires coming out and your subwoofer should have + and - speaker terminals going in....this should be rather self explanetory, but use at least 16 gauge wire on these, preferably something with some decent quality flexibility and insulation (don't just scrap lamp cords or use the speaker wire from your computer speakers)

 

[crewxp 10+ year member]

Thanks. I appreciate the patience youre taking to help me. Yeah, I was saving the subs for last. It has a red and white connector on the sub. I mistook that for a RCA. If you press the red and white connectors down, it opens up a hole to put the speaker wire in.

So I just need to hook the positive and negative in from the left sub to to the positive and negative out from the amp? And do the same for the right sub? So 2 total wires total go out from each +/- on the amp?

And I ran across a problem too... I have everything hooked up besides the amp and subs. I was testing the speakers and the receiver. If I turn the volume up to 16 (max volume is 50 on receiver), I hear a popping/clicking Sound. If I turn the volume up, I hear the popping and cracking sounds more often. If I turn the receiver bass up, it also comes on more often. I can't figure out why its doing that. I made sure all the receiver cramps to the deck were secure. I'm thinking It's because I left the factory tweeters on (the small speakers along the front side of the car). It seems like the audio signal goes out from the receiver, factory split in the door to the tweeter and also ran to the door speaker. I just clipped the old speakers off, cramped the new speakers to the old wire, and didn't change the tweeter because the new tweeter didn't fit. I HOPE thats why its popping. So I just need to clip off the old tweeters and leave it open? Im thinking about going to a local auto shop and asking if they can tell me why it pops (if they can do it for under 20)

Here's some specs/pics/data/audio:

Amp: Alpine MRP-M500

Per channel output into 4 ohms:

Per channel output into 2 ohms:

Input Inpedance: RCA IN: 20k ohms | SP IN: 40K ohms

Frequency Response: 20-200Hz

Sub (2): Kicker TC10--C

Normal Impedance: 4ohm

Sensitivity: 93.8dB

Power Handling Watts, Peak: 300 (150) RMS

Receiver: KD-HDR60

Audio (Of Popping from my iPhone):

http://www.crewxp.com/truck/pop.mp3

Pics: (It was too dark outside to get good sub pics, so I took a pic of the box)

Sub Box:

http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_80.JPG

My Receiver Hookup:

http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_77.JPG

Amp Cables:

http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_79.JPG

 

[crewxp 10+ year member]

okay, having the car's popping issue looked at by a friend. then when i get it back in a few hours, going to try and hookup the amp and sub. hopefully no issues.

do you think there will be a issue of power difference bc my amp is 500w (or 300w i think in4ohms?), and my subs are 300 (150) RMS?

I wonder how I should wire it.

 

[crewxp 10+ year member]

okay. we fixed the sound popping issue. turns out it was a bad adapter that came with the speakers. The factory tweeters his/pop only at real high volumes, so im thinking of just disabling those.

but my problem now is my subs. i tried testing only one sub hooked to the amp, and it seems like it barely comes on. my rear factory speakers produce more bass than than sub. am i screwed because the subs dont match the amp? Or do I just have to hookup both subs for it to work.

 

[crewxp 10+ year member]

oh my god! someone pm'd me and helped me fix it! thanks!!

I took the amp ground off the seat bolt and held it to the door latch on the side of the car, and it stayed on! I turned the volume up and I could hear bass!! It was awesome! Turns out it was that after all. All I have to do now is fine a place to ground it. Every bolt and piece of metal inside the car (what i had it hooked up to before), has a white paint coat over it. Im guessing that takes away the grounding. So not sure what to do from there.

And does anyone know anything about this? I dont know how. Not sure if I blew it doing all this, or did it a while back, but my rear left speaker doesnt work. Can I use the front speaker I used to use (factory), and hook it to the back? Or are the rear speakers different than the front?

So all the questions I have left for now (bc im hard to understand sometimes)

1.) So my sub and amp setup is good? Someone had pm'd me it wouldnt work. Heres his PM:

Ooohhh its kind of a mismatch there. That amp is too much for them subs. You need 2 subs with bout 300w RMS. That amp can either run 500w or 150w to both subs. If you hook them up at 2 ohms this will put out 500w RMS and thats too much for them subs.
If you hook up them subs in parallel that would put a 2 ohm load which would make the amp put out 500w RMS, the subs are only rated 300w total RMS together.

If you hook up them subs in series, it adds resistance or OHMS. Since I am assuming you have single voice coil subs, this would put them at an 8 ohm load which would be about 150w. Only way to work it to put a 4 ohm load is if the subs have dual voice coils at 2 ohms each. Thats what I mean when you shop around for sub equipment you gotta match it close so you can work with it.

2.) Any suggestions on how to find a good spot to ground my amp? The amp HAS to go under my front seat, and the ground cable is about 3 ft long.

3.) Can I use my front factory speaker in the back? Do you know anything about that?

Thanks a lot! I imagine Ill run across another problem tomorrow, but hopefully not. I'ld appreciate it if you could help me then too if I do run across something again.