What is the minimum RMS to drive these?

Long story short? Because I am building my system in peices, and because I don't want/need it to get loud. I don't have the space for a massive amp, and I currently have a leftover amp from an older system that will drive these until I save up more scratch to buy a new amp to run these and my (to be determined) subwoofer.

I am trying to build a balanced system that will have about 50 watts per channel in the front and 125-135(ish) from 2 bridged channels to a single 8 or 10 inch sub.

Since I already have a small amp, it will drive these until I decide on a sub and get a box built. After I get the box finished, I will THEN be buying a better amp to drive the frontstage and the sub. Until then, I have to run the comps off of what I have- which is an old RF amp (2000 vintage) that is either 25x2 or 62.5x2.

 
Those CL series will sound good on 45rms per side and all the way up to 90rms per side. I wouldnt put more then 90 to them. They didnt like it to much when I did.

45-50 watts is actually where I would recomend you run these if that is the power you have. Mine were respectable on that power. Another tip...deaden your doors as best as you can. This will help them out with the power you give them. Adding better, cleaner midbass, it will also help to clean up the midrange out of them.

 
Those CL series will sound good on 45rms per side and all the way up to 90rms per side. I wouldnt put more then 90 to them. They didnt like it to much when I did.
45-50 watts is actually where I would recomend you run these if that is the power you have. Mine were respectable on that power.
Thanks for the tips. Now all that I have to do is see if they fit in my car. They fit in my budget, but I have very limited mounting depth, even with spacers.

If these don't work, it looks like I will go with something "mainstream" like polk dBs/Momos or Quarts, because I KNOW that they will fit with the spacers.

Another tip...deaden your doors as best as you can. This will help them out with the power you give them. Adding better, cleaner midbass, it will also help to clean up the midrange out of them.
I planned to damp the doors when I install. I have read up a lot on deadening techniques and products and I still cannot get a handle on what will stand up to the conditions in the doors. Even the head-to-head comparisons leave me dizzy. My last damping effort (B-quiet) ended up in a puddle at the bottom of my doors, and left an adhesive residue on my windos that was nearly impossible to remove.

 
Thanks for the tips. Now all that I have to do is see if they fit in my car. They fit in my budget, but I have very limited mounting depth, even with spacers.
If these don't work, it looks like I will go with something "mainstream" like polk dBs/Momos or Quarts, because I KNOW that they will fit with the spacers.

I planned to damp the doors when I install. I have read up a lot on deadening techniques and products and I still cannot get a handle on what will stand up to the conditions in the doors. Even the head-to-head comparisons leave me dizzy. My last damping effort (B-quiet) ended up in a puddle at the bottom of my doors, and left an adhesive residue on my windos that was nearly impossible to remove.

Its not cheap, but take a look at the second skin products. www.secondskinaudio.com

I use them and love them.

 
The CDT's have only a 2.5" mounting depth for the 6.5" driver.
Edit: Actually clicked the link, and those are freaking shallow.

I'm giving mine 150w RMS and the sound amazing.
I found them (the first set) from the link in your sig. The ones in the second link (the more shallow ones) will definately fit, from the looks of them.

 
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