What is the correct way to wire non-matching dual alternators??

kpeters0929
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Hello,

I did search before and from all the info i gathered i noticed their really wasn't a straight answer on doing this.

I have a H.O. alternator which is a small case GM currently in my Buick. I also purchased a H.O. large case GM alternator which i plan on modifying it to fit in the A/C location.

I was told just to run the power wire from the new large case alternator to the battery and they will work together fine.

From searching online i found this info..

"It is true that the two alternator's voltage regulators are unlikely to be perfectly matched, so one of them will tend to do more work than the other."

So do i need some type of module to get both to work well together?

I'm sure if i had 2 alternators which were exactly the same it wouldn't be any issue, but since i have 2 different ones i'd like to find out the correct info before trying it out.

If anyone has any info please let me know.

Thanks!

 
missing link audio google it
I read of the MLA modules but it seems like those are designed just to step the voltage up. As for their dual alternator modules those seem like they are for if you are running the same type of alternator. How would running a MLA module make both alternators run the same voltage if they are different to begin with?

 
I read of the MLA modules but it seems like those are designed just to step the voltage up. As for their dual alternator modules those seem like they are for if you are running the same type of alternator. How would running a MLA module make both alternators run the same voltage if they are different to begin with?
Have you tried to call and get direct tech help? Maybe they have more info than what is displayed on their website. GL

 
I guess i could try that, but just figured i'd ask on the forums to see what others thought just incase it wasn't necessary to use the MLA.

 
Are you trying to wire both alts to run your entire ride and car audio? Or one alt to charge the ride and the other more powerful alt to charge the car audio system?

I've only seen it done with the stock alt to the ride and the H/O alt to the system, I'm not sure it can be done the way you're thinking...I might be wrong though.

 
Are you trying to wire both alts to run your entire ride and car audio? Or one alt to charge the ride and the other more powerful alt to charge the car audio system?
I've only seen it done with the stock alt to the ride and the H/O alt to the system, I'm not sure it can be done the way you're thinking...I might be wrong though.
I did give that some thought, by using a factory alternator to run the car, and the bigger H.O. to run the system, but the thing is i already have a H.O. as the factory alternator to begin with.

I'd hate for that to go to waste and not run it, if you know what i mean. The underhood one is a 200 amp and the one being modified is a 275 amp. So i figured i'd have a 475 amp pretty much if i'd run them together.

Another reason i planned on running them together is because i plan on running (2) Saz-3500d amps... so i'll need as much power as i can get. I don't think just (1) 275 amp alternator would be enough for what i'm trying to do.

 
If u get any info on this, I'd appreciate the info and source being passed along. I'm looking to doing the same thing, except with two large case alts.
I definately will. I figured their are others on this forum that were wondering about this. I'm not a alternator genius, but i'd like to do it right to begin with without messing any equipment up... just need the correct info from someone with experience.

 
If u get any info on this, I'd appreciate the info and source being passed along. I'm looking to doing the same thing, except with two large case alts.
In your case, if they are the same alt then missing link audio dual alt modul is what you need.

 
I did give that some thought, by using a factory alternator to run the car, and the bigger H.O. to run the system, but the thing is i already have a H.O. as the factory alternator to begin with.I'd hate for that to go to waste and not run it, if you know what i mean. The underhood one is a 200 amp and the one being modified is a 275 amp. So i figured i'd have a 475 amp pretty much if i'd run them together.

Another reason i planned on running them together is because i plan on running (2) Saz-3500d amps... so i'll need as much power as i can get. I don't think just (1) 275 amp alternator would be enough for what i'm trying to do.
Well a 275a alt ran on the system alone is more than enought to power a system of your calibor. Remeber, when running a single H/O alt, it runs the ride and system so you're not getting all of that power to your system. You'll be just fine with running a 275a H/O alt to your system.

 
MLA made me a module to run a Ford 6G and a GM large case alt for my F150
Givin that info, i guess that's what i need. Have you had any issues? What does your voltage idle at while hot? Any fluctuation issues?

Do you run the MLA module whenever the car is running? I know they have it set up with a toggle switch, but i would assume running excessive higher voltage in a daily driver would put extra strain on the alternators.

 
Well a 275a alt ran on the system alone is more than enought to power a system of your calibor. Remeber, when running a single H/O alt, it runs the ride and system so you're not getting all of that power to your system. You'll be just fine with running a 275a H/O alt to your system.
Hmmm... now you have me thinking.

So a 275amp alternator should be sufficient to run a 7000watt RMS system? I was assuming the saz-3500d amp would consume maybe 200amps of current at full tilt... possibly more at 14.4v. I do plan on running 3-4 D3100 XS power batteries though. I'd just hate to finish the build and get voltage drops if you know what i mean... so i tend to try to overkill the charging setup "just incase." I guess you can say more power is better then not enough.

 
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