What is the correct way to wire non-matching dual alternators??

I only have my ford alt in right now as I am still waiting on the rest of the stuff for my alt bracket from DC power.

The toggle switch is just to switch voltages, 14.8 to 15.3 and I dont have that, just the simple install it and forget it.

I sit at 14.8 with 1 alt in there, and when I add the other I should be at 15.3

No problems, took 30 days from when I ordered till it was at my door, my truck used to sit around 14.0-13.8 and its bounce back and forth, now its alot more steady.

 
Hmmm... now you have me thinking.So a 275amp alternator should be sufficient to run a 7000watt RMS system? I was assuming the saz-3500d amp would consume maybe 200amps of current at full tilt... possibly more at 14.4v. I do plan on running 3-4 D3100 XS power batteries though. I'd just hate to finish the build and get voltage drops if you know what i mean... so i tend to try to overkill the charging setup "just incase." I guess you can say more power is better then not enough.
Your not understanding how this works.

Your alt does 275 amps at full tilt, NOT at idle.

IDLE output is more important.

Higher voltage = less amperage to produce the same power.

 
Hmmm... now you have me thinking.So a 275amp alternator should be sufficient to run a 7000watt RMS system? I was assuming the saz-3500d amp would consume maybe 200amps of current at full tilt... possibly more at 14.4v. I do plan on running 3-4 D3100 XS power batteries though. I'd just hate to finish the build and get voltage drops if you know what i mean... so i tend to try to overkill the charging setup "just incase." I guess you can say more power is better then not enough.
Lol Sure. I'm running 1 250a H/O alt on ride and system. System (when finished) will be doing around 13,000 wrms @ 1ohm with a battery bank of 5 XS Power D3100's...You'll do just fine Lol

In todays car audio (assuming daily setup), there is no real way to match charging input to amp draw. So it's best not to play at full tilt all day everyday. You gotta give your batts a chance to charge or get an external charger and charge your batts up at night.

 
Your not understanding how this works.
Your alt does 275 amps at full tilt, NOT at idle.

IDLE output is more important.

Higher voltage = less amperage to produce the same power.
^^This^^ plus alt will reach near full potention at around 2k-2.5k rpms.

 
I totally understand how the amperage works on the alternators. At idle the large case GM alternator puts out roughly 180 amps at idle. I just never thought that it would be able to be enough by itself for the new setup.

Previously i had (2) 13w7 subs with (2) 1000/1v2's. I also had (1) kinetik HC1400 under the hood and (2) HC1800's in the back. With my current 200 amp H.O. alternator my voltage would still drop as low as the 11's even if i were driving 30+mph. This would be at full tilt though, and it would drop that low if i were to play say longer then 20 sec. Now that i was changing the setup i figured it would be mandatory to add another alternator to support more power... and their really isn't a way to put a bigger alternator in the stock location on the car (intake manifold is in the way.) So if it should have handled the power idk why it was dropping that low to begin with. All the wiring was 1/0 gauge. Everything was done right. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
I totally understand how the amperage works on the alternators. At idle the large case GM alternator puts out roughly 180 amps at idle. I just never thought that it would be able to be enough by itself for the new setup.Previously i had (2) 13w7 subs with (2) 1000/1v2's. I also had (1) kinetik HC1400 under the hood and (2) HC1800's in the back. With my current 200 amp H.O. alternator my voltage would still drop as low as the 11's even if i were driving 30+mph. This would be at full tilt though, and it would drop that low if i were to play say longer then 20 sec. Now that i was changing the setup i figured it would be mandatory to add another alternator to support more power... and their really isn't a way to put a bigger alternator in the stock location on the car (intake manifold is in the way.) So if it should have handled the power idk why it was dropping that low to begin with. All the wiring was 1/0 gauge. Everything was done right. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

That doesnt sound right, 2k with that kind of batter bank shouldn't drop no lower than 14v. I had a 250a H/O alt with 4 HC1800's 1 under then hood and 3 in the back with 2 crunch gp3000d pro's strapped at 2 ohm with roughly 6k rms and my volts didnt drop any lower than 12.7v.

I'm guessing your alt is damaged or it's a user error.

EDIT: Did you do the Big 3? Did you have good grounds?

 
You know if you run deka intimidator 9a31 or XS Power D3100 you would only need 4, 5 to be safe,right?
EDIT: Also less weight with the Deka's or XS Power.
And whys that?

Any technical data to back that claim or just brand favoritism at its best?

 
That doesnt sound right, 2k with that kind of batter bank shouldn't drop no lower than 14v. I had a 250a H/O alt with 4 HC1800's 1 under then hood and 3 in the back with 2 crunch gp3000d pro's strapped at 2 ohm with roughly 6k rms and my volts didnt drop any lower than 12.7v.
I'm guessing your alt is damaged or it's a user error.

EDIT: Did you do the Big 3? Did you have good grounds?
Yes you name it and i tried it. Like i said 1/0 everywhere. Real clean install. Checked all the ground resistances etc. I even ran a 1/0 ground wire from the underhood battery to the rear batteries. What i do know is that the small case GM alternator sucks according to all the builders. Actually after i think about it, i think it is a 160 amp.... not 200. It's still a high output considering stock it was a 90amp, but i guess in the small case GM's it doesn't have enough room inside to build it any stronger. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
Yes you name it and i tried it. Like i said 1/0 everywhere. Real clean install. Checked all the ground resistances etc. I even ran a 1/0 ground wire from the underhood battery to the rear batteries. What i do know is that the small case GM alternator sucks according to all the builders. Actually after i think about it, i think it is a 160 amp.... not 200. It's still a high output considering stock it was a 90amp, but i guess in the small case GM's it doesn't have enough room inside to build it any stronger. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
If it was a shitty built alt then you can expect shitty performance. If you have a more powerful, well built, durable, reliable alt then I think you will see a better voltage in your systems performance.

 
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