What is the best value 12" "Shallow Mount" subwoofer available???

Power Bass makes a thin sub looks like .... they got a single VC 300W RMS sub available that would run perfectly with my Alpine as it is 300 RMS on a 4-ohm load. Or they have a Dual VC 4-ohm that will run at 2-ohm (I am correct that sub with a DVC is in turn a 2-ohm load with a single sub right) but max RMS on that is also 300w and my Alpine is 500 RMS .... Guess I can still do the Gain thing and get it set down so it powers fine .... if this sub is an option which of the two should I go with?
PowerBass S-12TD (S12TD) 12" Dual 4 ohm Thin-Mount Subwoofer

I can pick one of these up for $70 !!!!! .... Now that is a Steal if these Power Bass subs are good.

View attachment 26545329
Look at what I posted and buy it. Trust me it will work great for your situation. Needs .49 sealed but, works best with 1 cube. You have .9 cubes with enough space to fit it without hitting the back.

 
Yea with an avaliable depth of 7.5 I dont see the need for a shallow mount sub. And most twelves want a touch bigger box than that bit throw a little poly fill in the box and you should be set.

power bass makes great subs for the money

 

with only 500w I would try and get the L12d rather than the S12d

they do make a shallow mount too
I found the L-Series Power bass .... I can get the DVC 4-ohm version (so it can run in 2-ohm stable mode) that is 400W RMS (good for my 500w on the alpine with the gain adjusted right!) and it only runs about $110.

Mouting depth is 5.4" .... that should be fine right? Leaves 2-Inches of space between the sub and the back of the box!

Also the L-Series says it only calls for a 1.0 cu. ft box ..... and with my 0.9 box that should be just fine You Think???

So are these Power Bass Subs better then say the MTX shallow sub I originally posted? I'm thinking since it's not a "Shallow Sub" then it would sound better right???

LINK - PowerBass L-124D (L124D) 12" Dual 4 ohm L Car Subwoofer

 
Look at what I posted and buy it. Trust me it will work great for your situation. Needs .49 sealed but, works best with 1 cube. You have .9 cubes with enough space to fit it without hitting the back.
It's a touch pricier then most all other at around 50-100 bucks ... plus it's 700W RMS ... I don't really have the power to run that as my Alpine is only 500W RMS at 2-ohms.

Seems a bit big to ... I would not it want it almost sitting right on the back of the box. (can't seem to find the depth of this sub anywhere either).

 
It's a touch pricier then most all other at around 50-100 bucks ... plus it's 700W RMS ... I don't really have the power to run that as my Alpine is only 500W RMS at 2-ohms.
Seems a bit big to ... I would not it want it almost sitting right on the back of the box. (can't seem to find the depth of this sub anywhere either).
You get what you pay for and it's worth every penny. Just because it's rated at 700 rms doesn't mean it needs that much. You can always add a bit of poly if the power handling concerned you so much. It would not sit that close because it has a Depth of 5.75"

 
Anyone have any feedback on the Power Bass subwoofers?

Thats seems like a solid sub for what I have a need for (not looking for major comp type subs or anything, just something that sounds nice and clean and adds solid bass to my trucks cab as much as possible in that tiny box under the back seat).

Seems like the L-Series is more a solid sub and probably better then the S-Series, but the price point is so good on the L .... though is did find a L-Series 12" sub online for $80 shipped! .... very good pricing for a sub that seems to be a great performer for the value.

 
Anyone have any feedback on the Power Bass subwoofers?
Thats seems like a solid sub for what I have a need for (not looking for major comp type subs or anything, just something that sounds nice and clean and adds solid bass to my trucks cab as much as possible in that tiny box under the back seat).

Seems like the L-Series is more a solid sub and probably better then the S-Series, but the price point is so good on the L .... though is did find a L-Series 12" sub online for $80 shipped! .... very good pricing for a sub that seems to be a great performer for the value.
Shallow mounts are a waste of time and money. There are many lower profile woofers that can do the job. Check out this list and in the specs section the depth is how deep the subwoofer goes when mounting. Woofers, Subwoofers & Midrange Speakers in the Speaker Components Department at Parts Express | 31 - 497|3924

 
get what you pay for the mounting depth on the sundown is only 5 inches and 2 me shallow subs never sound that good. no low end extension.
I agree on the Shallow Subs .... seems like a good amount of subs out there are like 5-6" or so and I can use those im small truck box .... so I have veered away from the shallow subs now.

Just trying to find a regular sub now with a somewhat shallow depth to it (like 5" at best) and it still be a normal subs so it can move and give that extension and hit those low end that I have to have (I hated my pre-loaded Rockford Fosgate Punch P3 sub I bought as it sounded horrible and the low end was pure junk and just distorted on the low end all the time ... I returned it all).

I still think the Power Bass is a good option and I can get it from Amazon and return it if I don;t care for it. (the other I'm kinda stuck with and I don't like that).

The sundown has about 6.5" mounting depth and that's cutting it real close ... it will sit right on the back of the box and I doubt that is good for the back of the sub and magnet area sitting SO close to the flat wood like that.

Would like to keep it in the 100 buck range and get it from a retailer that I can return if the product does not perform the way I want.

 
I agree on the Shallow Subs .... seems like a good amount of subs out there are like 5-6" or so and I can use those im small truck box .... so I have veered away from the shallow subs now.
Just trying to find a regular sub now with a somewhat shallow depth to it (like 5" at best) and it still be a normal subs so it can move and give that extension and hit those low end that I have to have (I hated my pre-loaded Rockford Fosgate Punch P3 sub I bought as it sounded horrible and the low end was pure junk and just distorted on the low end all the time ... I returned it all).

I still think the Power Bass is a good option and I can get it from Amazon and return it if I don;t care for it. (the other I'm kinda stuck with and I don't like that).

The sundown has about 6.5" mounting depth and that's cutting it real close ... it will sit right on the back of the box and I doubt that is good for the back of the sub and magnet area sitting SO close to the flat wood like that.

Would like to keep it in the 100 buck range and get it from a retailer that I can return if the product does not perform the way I want.
All I'm gonna say is as long as it's not in physical contact it doesn't matter. I'm done throwing out suggestions boss.

 
All I'm gonna say is as long as it's not in physical contact it doesn't matter. I'm done throwing out suggestions boss.
I do thank you for the suggestion but the Daytona is out of my price range ... If I was going to spend that much I would buy the JL Audio W1 (been of fan of JL forever).

This is a smaller system and just adding bass to a stock system ... but I still want descent sound and lows for my money ... I know there are may options out there better then what I may have originally posted but I'm trying to keep the price down and like I said if I was going to spend $150+ dollars I would get the JL I want.

But you say as long as it's not hitting then subs are okay? I thought they needed a bit of room and not be like and inch away from the back of the box. Is this tiny box and the magnet being less than an inch away form the back of the boxes wood okay to do?

 
I do thank you for the suggestion but the Daytona is out of my price range ... If I was going to spend that much I would buy the JL Audio W1 (been of fan of JL forever).
This is a smaller system and just adding bass to a stock system ... but I still want descent sound and lows for my money ... I know there are may options out there better then what I may have originally posted but I'm trying to keep the price down and like I said if I was going to spend $150+ dollars I would get the JL I want.

But you say as long as it's not hitting then subs are okay? I thought they needed a bit of room and not be like and inch away from the back of the box. Is this tiny box and the magnet being less than an inch away form the back of the boxes wood okay to do?
The W1 is pure garbage. An inch will be enough room for the cooling to work.

 
I think the box I ordered does not have the mounting depth stated.

I wasn't even thinking but the box's dimensions are 20"W x 15"T x Bottom Depth 7.5" x Top Depth 5"

It says up to 7.5" mounting depth ... not possible with the front having and angle (like a truck box looks) and the bottom being 7 and half inches and the top being 5 inches .... I would think no way it could even fit a 5.5-6" mounting depth.

Which pisses me off cause I am getting a sub that is 6.1" in mounting depth.

Anyone know if the Sub Thumps box that says 6.5" mounting depth is a TRUE 6.5"?

I think I may need to order a new **** box due to this .... I got it from eBay so they should eat it and refund my money since their description will be wrong.

 
I do thank you for the suggestion but the Daytona is out of my price range ... If I was going to spend that much I would buy the JL Audio W1 (been of fan of JL forever).
This is a smaller system and just adding bass to a stock system ... but I still want descent sound and lows for my money ... I know there are may options out there better then what I may have originally posted but I'm trying to keep the price down and like I said if I was going to spend $150+ dollars I would get the JL I want.

But you say as long as it's not hitting then subs are okay? I thought they needed a bit of room and not be like and inch away from the back of the box. Is this tiny box and the magnet being less than an inch away form the back of the boxes wood okay to do?
dude... JL W6 stands a chance against the HOs but W1s vs Daytons? You kidding me? The Daytons will destroy those. Seriously though, i'd ditch that subwoofer enclosure you have currently, sell it on craigslist, use it as a footstool w/e. Its probably too small for any of the subs everyone listed because there's not much room left after subwoofer displacement. space makes bass and with a custom design you can fit it precisely where you need it to while giving the sub the optimum room to breathe.

Someone on this forum can get you a custom box designed specifically for your sub for 5-10 bucks or hit up nkrell he does it for free search for his thread. The design will come with all the cut out sheets complete with measurements and such then you can go to home depot where they cut it out all for you. Have someone you know with a router/jig cut out a circle for you and all thats left is to glue and nail everything together which doesnt take a woodworking genius to figure out.

I guarantee you that your bass sound quality and output will be miles ahead of your current prefab. Subs are one thing but the main part of sound good and getting low is the enclosure. I'd also recommend ported instead of sealed because a good ported box can sound just as good as a sealed with good efficiency plenty of low end output for great SQ

 
dude... JL W6 stands a chance against the HOs but W1s vs Daytons? You kidding me? The Daytons will destroy those. Seriously though, i'd ditch that subwoofer enclosure you have currently, sell it on craigslist, use it as a footstool w/e. Its probably too small for any of the subs everyone listed because there's not much room left after subwoofer displacement. space makes bass and with a custom design you can fit it precisely where you need it to while giving the sub the optimum room to breathe.
Someone on this forum can get you a custom box designed specifically for your sub for 5-10 bucks or hit up nkrell he does it for free search for his thread. The design will come with all the cut out sheets complete with measurements and such then you can go to home depot where they cut it out all for you. Have someone you know with a router/jig cut out a circle for you and all thats left is to glue and nail everything together which doesnt take a woodworking genius to figure out.

I guarantee you that your bass sound quality and output will be miles ahead of your current prefab. Subs are one thing but the main part of sound good and getting low is the enclosure. I'd also recommend ported instead of sealed because a good ported box can sound just as good as a sealed with good efficiency plenty of low end output for great SQ

I am going to go with this box (the other box on the description stated up to 7.5" so I called them and they sent me a return label so I can send it back and they will refund me my full amount paid .. so I'm good there ... or else it would have been a foot-stool, LOL).

It's a Sub-Thump custom made box to fit perfectly and get max air from my GMC Sierra back seat.

Total is 0.95 cu. ft. of volume and up to 6.5" mounting depth downfiring enclosure.

I know a guy who has one of these and he fit a full size 6.2" Punch P3 in his ... my 6-1/16" mounting depth sub should be just fine in this enclosure.

07-2013 GM Crew Cab Single Downfire Box

Anyone use Sub-Thumps boxes before?

 
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