What amp/configuration is best for me?

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Twonders

CarAudio.com Newbie
I have a 2000 Monte Carlo and I'm kind of new to car audio. I would like to know how I should go about installing a subwoofer and replacing my factory amp. I'm unsure what amp I should get as well as how I should go about replacing the factory one. I'm also unsure if I would need a capacitor to help power everything or if that is just unnecessary. Some guidance would be very much appreciated!

What I'm Working With
I have an MTX Terminator 12" Subwoofer (200-400w RMS @2ohms)
An aftermarket Soundstorm ML41B head unit (40w)
6 factory speakers (Two 6.5"s, Two 6"x9"s, Two 0.75" Tweeters)
Factory Amplifier
 
Looks like you need to start from scratch. Get a decent HU (4v pre-out or higher). Then a set of 6.5" coaxial for the front and a set of 5.25" for the rear (not required though). Then, find a good 4 channel amp to power the system. Run two channels for the 6.5" and bridge the other two channels for the sub. If you decided to run 5.25" in the rear, then, run them off the deck. You will also need a ported box designed for your sub. This should give a basic little system.
 
I have a 2000 Monte Carlo and I'm kind of new to car audio. I would like to know how I should go about installing a subwoofer and replacing my factory amp. I'm unsure what amp I should get as well as how I should go about replacing the factory one. I'm also unsure if I would need a capacitor to help power everything or if that is just unnecessary. Some guidance would be very much appreciated!

What I'm Working With
I have an MTX Terminator 12" Subwoofer (200-400w RMS @2ohms)
An aftermarket Soundstorm ML41B head unit (40w)
6 factory speakers (Two 6.5"s, Two 6"x9"s, Two 0.75" Tweeters)
Factory Amplifier
Your RMS rating is wrong it shouldn't be from 200 to 400. It's either 1 or the other.
Throw that factory mess in the trash get a set of components(6.5 and tweets) and rear deck(6×9's) they're full sets of decent brands cheap on Amazon pioneer Alpine etc. When you find out what the RMS rating is on your sub buy an amp that's rated to the same RMS that the sub takes. You could get waaaay more extensive than this but just to keep it simple this should be fine. If you get alot of bass and feel like you can't hear the words. Buy a 4 channel amp rated at least at the amount of total RMS for your interior speakers. When you buy some components the RMS rating is combined the tweets and 6.5's. Mines were. The 6.5 and tweets combined were 100w RMS for each door and my 6×9's were 100w RMS apiece so 400w. I needed a 4 channel amp with at least 400w RMS. That's 100w RMS per channe. You can work with the factory stuff but I always blow factory subs tweets and mids. Also your head unit plays a role in your setup.
 
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I have a 2000 Monte Carlo and I'm kind of new to car audio. I would like to know how I should go about installing a subwoofer and replacing my factory amp. I'm unsure what amp I should get as well as how I should go about replacing the factory one. I'm also unsure if I would need a capacitor to help power everything or if that is just unnecessary. Some guidance would be very much appreciated!

What I'm Working With
I have an MTX Terminator 12" Subwoofer (200-400w RMS @2ohms)
An aftermarket Soundstorm ML41B head unit (40w)
6 factory speakers (Two 6.5"s, Two 6"x9"s, Two 0.75" Tweeters)
Factory Amplifier
What's your goal.. spl or sq, what kind of music are you listening to and how much are you willing to spend?
 
I remember last year I jumped back in the bass head arena after years of having no system. Man o man the problems I would've had, (had I not come to this forum) are infinite from wiring to aquiring the right equipment and electrical. Your in the right place buddy. I had a grounding issue that I never would've figured out without spending a few hundred dollars and in about 20 minutes it twàs solved courtesy of this forum. Good dudes here butt they are serious about the bass and they know their stuff
 
I drive the same era of vehicle except it's a 1999 Oldsmobile and I had the same factory stuff in my car same options also especially if you have a 3800. I bumped my door speakers up to 6.5 no biggie just made the original hole for the 5.25 bigger put the tweets in the factory locations. I'm assuming you have the same factory setup I had based on your model car you. I simply added a head unit, components in the doors and 6×9's in the rear deck. Trust me you'll blow those factory paper trash speakers
 
I drive the same era of vehicle except it's a 1999 Oldsmobile and I had the same factory stuff in my car same options also especially if you have a 3800. I bumped my door speakers up to 6.5 no biggie just made the original hole for the 5.25 bigger put the tweets in the factory locations. I'm assuming you have the same factory setup I had based on your model car you. I simply added a head unit, components in the doors and 6×9's in the rear deck. Trust me you'll blow those factory paper trash speakers
Yeah, I got the subs and I was like hell yeah this can't be that hard and holy **** I was wrong because I barely know anything about electronics. I'm so glad I found this forum. I just replaced all the factory speakers today and put 6.25s in the front like you did haha. My car sounds soo much better. Now I gotta find a way to get this sub in.
 
What's your goal.. spl or sq, what kind of music are you listening to and how much are you willing to spend?
My goal is kind of on the spl side. I primarily listen to rap and im a broke college student so the wallet is lookin at < $200 for this amp and whatever else I need. (I have the subs already)
 
Your RMS rating is wrong it shouldn't be from 200 to 400. It's either 1 or the other.
Throw that factory mess in the trash get a set of components(6.5 and tweets) and rear deck(6×9's) they're full sets of decent brands cheap on Amazon pioneer Alpine etc. When you find out what the RMS rating is on your sub buy an amp that's rated to the same RMS that the sub takes. You could get waaaay more extensive than this but just to keep it simple this should be fine. If you get alot of bass and feel like you can't hear the words. Buy a 4 channel amp rated at least at the amount of total RMS for your interior speakers. When you buy some components the RMS rating is combined the tweets and 6.5's. Mines were. The 6.5 and tweets combined were 100w RMS for each door and my 6×9's were 100w RMS apiece so 400w. I needed a 4 channel amp with at least 400w RMS. That's 100w RMS per channe. You can work with the factory stuff but I always blow factory subs tweets and mids. Also your head unit plays a role in your setup.
I looked into it, the rms is 400w. I replaced all my internal speakers today and it sounds a hell of a lot better. Should i get a 1 channel amp for the sub and a 4 channel for the internals?
 
I looked into it, the rms is 400w. I replaced all my internal speakers today and it sounds a hell of a lot better. Should i get a 1 channel amp for the sub and a 4 channel for the internals?
Yes. A speaker amp will greatly help your speakers to keep up with the sub. Might be hard to find two decent amps for $200 but it's possible with patience and time.
 
Would these work for you?
Screenshot_20191223-164214_Google.jpg
Screenshot_20191223-164636_Google.jpg
 
Yes. A speaker amp will greatly help your speakers to keep up with the sub. Might be hard to find two decent amps for $200 but it's possible with patience and time.
I have an idea... I found this Metra adapter and it plugs into the wiring harness that goes into the amp. I believe it just bypasses the factory amp and uses the head unit to power the speakers. Do you think buying a higher wattage head unit to power the speakers and buying a monoblock amp for the sub would work out alright?
 
Yes but I strongly suggest that you get a 4ch eventually so your speakers don't starve/distort. Very cool to have a sub but even cooler to have speakers keeping up with it.
 
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Twonders

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